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kiwi series build


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Wow DeRanged, you really put some work into those axle housings, I can appreciate the effect of it though, smoothness and ground clearance on the underside of an axle makes an immense difference offroad. Have you ever tried your hands on building one of those "Solid IRS/IFS" Style axles where you essentially crank the housing and run two CV's inside it? One day when I was servicing my old Jag I was actually thinking about doing that with the rear IRS from that, Salisbury center and BIIG U-joints either end, could be a cool project.. :)

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9 hours ago, Soren Frimodt said:

Wow DeRanged, you really put some work into those axle housings, I can appreciate the effect of it though, smoothness and ground clearance on the underside of an axle makes an immense difference offroad. Have you ever tried your hands on building one of those "Solid IRS/IFS" Style axles where you essentially crank the housing and run two CV's inside it? One day when I was servicing my old Jag I was actually thinking about doing that with the rear IRS from that, Salisbury center and BIIG U-joints either end, could be a cool project.. :)

Not yet.... I have been considering it, competition rules here ban portals, most of the serious rigs go the opposite way, Nissan safari axles and work on the idea of bash your way through I don't like this approach, because the extra weight means you need extra suspended weight to counter it with the suspension or the axles bounce and don't track the ground.... I like light weight and good throttle response so a solid axle that is clearanced is lighter than a IFS cranked solid axle and I still have a performance gain over the rest because I don't get hung up on the axles

All that said.... If I do I'll use Mitzy Pajero (think they are a shogun in your neck of the woods) they have a 9" diff nugget and some of the strongest CV's on an IFS setup and they are common..... but if I was to get creative I think I'd look at a custom ford 9" setup and go full independent love the new stuff in Ultra4 

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I didn't realise competition rules here banned portals.  I'm sure the Letts used them in their very successful Chev Corvair powered truck a few years ago.  Do you think what Soren suggests would be against the rules too?  I've thought for a long time it's the best of both worlds if clearance is an issue - much less to go wrong than a portal!  Though full independent with portals could be super cool.

By the way, that axle looks familiar.  I'm sure I saw it in your Taradale workshop once.

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About the only one that might allow them would be the mainland winch challenge in outlaw class.... the rule set I'm planning too, don't think anyone has talked about building any yet so there is nothing in the rules lol 

And no IFS solid axles wouldn't be against any of the rules but here is my reasoning why I'm not going down this path.... yet lol 

1st... I have one of my porn axles sitting there doing nothing so I only need to build another for the rear lol 

2nd... these have a competitive edge over others running small axles (hilux) and a massive advantage over those running safari axle... remember if I'm down the line and they are dragging axles I'm not! if I'm first and dragging axles or diffs then its still going to happen for those behind me 

3rd...  weight and performance.... this build is going to be light weight (lots of alloy, doors, links, skins as much as I can... also why I chose this motor 164kg wet weight!) now part of making your suspension work is the springs push the axles into the ground to keep the tyres in contact now the body has to resist the mass of the axles and force them into the ground (why beam axles are carp for race cars and why the move to independent suspension in Ultra4 you might think this is silly thinking for a truck with a top speed of probably 70km/hr but think about how many times you've wanted a short hard acceleration to clear something.... the more the wheels bounce the less speed I will achieve and the less speed I have when I hit 

Now if I was to go to the IFS solid axle the housing has to be bigger and heavier, remember you have to have access to the CV's for manintance you can't build something like a normal tube axle you also have all the extra weight of a bigger diff nugget and CV's..... 

So it boils down to is the ground clearance gain worth the losses and at this stage no 

Oh and lets not forget I already have one cool axle already so its less I need to build lol 

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Haven't really done much on this been building a trailer for it... fame is all done just got to build some shouldered 22mm bolts for the springs to shackles and I'll be able to drop it onto its wheels 

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But on a positive note I got some profiles last week took a wee while for them to get to me lol a little mix up with dispatch at steel n tube.... got them just before I flew home for the weekend, a real tease 

20161119_160002.jpg 

Got two rings drilled and tapped lol getting over doing this by hand... no drill press so just a battery drill and a hand tap 2hrs to do a ring! 
Hopefully have them done next week then I decide if I still galv them 

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Distortion, the heat from the cutting distorts the rings... they are the same inside dia both large and small yet if you lay them on each other they don't quite match up Second is there speed of cut, there is a slope to the cut that on a small hole like this I find makes the holes oval to put this in perspective the holes in the outer rim are 8mm I am still drilling them as most need about half a mm taken out where the oval has narrowed... if you mention your tapping the holes I've had one place slow the machine down for me so the holes were true.... unfortunately I have also had others that have told me they would and not, I now just modify my processes and go with the cheapest quote lol  

And the last reason why I don't is I have found in the past that the laser leaves the edge of the hole hardened, nothing much but enough that over this many holes I'd need a couple of taps due to increased wear... have been told water jet is best for this.... the only one who is running of these is also the dearest quote so haven't used them yet 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A wee update 

Got some time in the shed working on a couple of things 

First up some stepped bolts for the shackles on the trailer.... the bolt head is just some nuts I thinned and drilled out the idea is I can set them to the right length when I've got the shackles together 

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Also got enough time to finish machining this 

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Thats both ends done and you can just see I polished the welds on the bottom while I had it off.... been thinking since I'm going to have the axles behind and in front of anything they need to clear as the suspension cycles I don't need to worry about where the diff pumpkin sits so I'm toying with mixing and matching inner shafts from trailgear for my longfields to give me some more width and reduce the scrub radius due to offsetting the rims with wheel spacers etc 

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Down to my last beadlock 
20161212_190250.jpg

Hows that for low profile.... I hate big rings they trap the mud in the rim for reference they are 8mm bolts not 6mm 
They are a bit different in that the backside of the ring is "V" out on the seam and welded 
20161212_190603.jpg

 

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  • 3 months later...

Been pulling some big hrs at work that has killed the motivation for a while lol but got a trip this easter on the West Coast so working to get the "toy" sorted

Got the rims back from sandblasting and galv

IMG_0003.jpg 

Got them re-tapped and the tyres mounted just waiting to see if there are any leaks before I put them on the truck... heading in this arvo to do that and sort the exhaust and fuel tank leaks, then this week replace the brake master and booster and sort the onboard air so the lockers can work and I'm all good to head out thurs night

Been doing a bit of research on building a comp winch.... twin motor electric

Decided to base it off a PTO winch the worm gear sorts the brake issues and makes the freespool nice en simple, also I picked up this for $250 at that price it was way to hard to turn down and after a steam clean found its in mint condition

IMG_0002.jpg 

Still doing research on motor options I was going to grab a couple of 6hp Ramsey motors off ebay worked out at about $200 each delivered catch is there free running rpm is only 2100, compare this to a Runva 8.6hp motor that they have told me spins at 7000rpm (waiting on confirmation on this as it seems a bit high given a warn is 4000rpm) and I haven't got into the calcs yet for Amps lol the 8.6hp might be too big to run 2 up 

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Great to see you back on it :i-m_so_happy:Is that a Toyota winch? If so its about 34:1 as I recall, so you won't need motors that run very high RPM, you need torque. Unless you plan on gearing it between the motors and winch to multiply the torque. I doubt 2x winch motors will be able to have any pulling power with a 34:1 gearing.

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2 hours ago, Soren Frimodt said:

Great to see you back on it :i-m_so_happy:Is that a Toyota winch? If so its about 34:1 as I recall, so you won't need motors that run very high RPM, you need torque. Unless you plan on gearing it between the motors and winch to multiply the torque. I doubt 2x winch motors will be able to have any pulling power with a 34:1 gearing.

Yep it is about that, and no I'm not thinking of leaving it at that gearing lol I'm planing on using a toothed belt drive to adjust the final gearing but this is dependent on the rpm of the motors this dictates the size of the pulleys this plus the hp of the motors dictates the width of the belt so I need to sort motors first final range will also depend on estimates of amp draw (this I'm still stuggling with lol) 

I'm expecting the final gearing to be around the 60:1 range 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A wee but intense update lol blown the trials truck up!

Got the beadlocks and new tyres on sorted all the issues... New brake booster to give me more brakes, broken exhust, oil change, onboard air to run the lockers, a snorkel etc loaded it up on a trailer and over the west coast for 3 days of testing

Gave it a good 20 mins warm up at the carpark where we unloaded.... set off up the access road towards the first track, got about a km up when it (I'm guessing from the style of crack) dropped a small end and smashed the block

But in that km I discovered how bad rear radius arms can be lol, due to the excessive AS any form of torque caused the rear suspension to extend to the limiting chains lol did I mention this was some rough engineering..... as the suspension cycles it causes excessive amounts of rear steer.... this wasn't so bad when playing in the drain on the side of the road but when I was onroad it was bad enough that anything past about 30km/hr it was almost impossible to keep it within my lane!... and this was the top truck in Southland LOL 

So the end result is I have a truck that needs the rear suspension removed and replaced, if I'm to replace the motor with the new one it is different enough I'm going to have to modify most of the engine bay to fit and replace all the wiring and controls..... If I can find a replacement motor at "Pick a Part" I'll consider it but at this stage I think I'm better off to put my time and money into Mk II 

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Talk about a learning curve etc...

After all the work you put into it.

But you can at least talk about it - and MK II will be even better !!

Bon Courage !

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That's really bad news, sorry to hear it.

It does strike me how ironic the bit about the rear suspension is, though.  Didn't this whole thread start with your ingenious and effective rear suspension on that Land Rover (which did work!)?  Going in circles?  (Still got that Holden motor on my shed floor...)

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What would you know Pick a Part have one.... well they have one that has been there for several months lol hoping to find out if it still has its motor tomorrow so I may fix this one yet.... if I do I"ll bif the suspension out of the landy in it 

Been invited to do a trip down Haast on the westcoast, would be real cool to go do as the land owner might be closing access due to idiots not respecting his farm when they drive through 

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  • 8 months later...

Bump........... G'day down under...........  I just looked up this thread because I had a trailer idea floating round and round and I remembered the drive over mudguard/fender format De Ranged had going, . ....and I'm glad I found it.

Its been a while, could be there's another thread I haven't found???? any updates?

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  • 1 month later...

Gidday 

Glad my ideas have helped out..... 

As for me I still have the shed full of toys, but due to work I'm just not getting time to work on them...... I'm now working in Australia on bigger and alot more complicated machinery..... and I'm re-engineering them to work better lol 

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my machine is the one infront of the digger it cuts a 1.2m deep trench and lays 3 x 70mm dia High Voltage cables as well as a fiber and bare earth all bedded in sand and back filled with protective covers and warning tapes 

I have bought another toy that is cool an old FJ40 and I'm just working at the moment to sort it out so I can leave it down Christchurch with a mate and use it for runs in the South Island.... planing a run down south of Haast a week of serious 4wd'n, there is one track we want to do that will require winching down a 10m cliff face into a river lol 

if your interested here is the original build thread 

 https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rotw-gertrude-1975-fj40.61345/

For the books I haven't forgotten either of my projects but just the way things are I don't know when/if I'll be able to get back to them.... I miss my shed lol the whole creative problem solving thing but just at the moment ...

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  • 5 months later...

Finally back on this..... been working on the 40 series done a custom stainless tank & changed it over to forklift lpg bottles as well as sorting the rear end to straighten it up,

Carved out the rear of this thing.... got the rear axle out using a gas axe lol cleaned it up and did a shave and and then decided to change to non steering rear axle so pulled an axle out of my parts store and shaved it and braced it fitted the link tabs off the old landrover axle and fitted up the old landrover links.... I'm at the stage I'm about to fit the part of the landy chassis I saved, its a wee bit of a challange mating the landrover chassis to an old Suzuki LJ70 chassis lol a bit of size difference 

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Mate its simple its just one small step after another and after ALOT of them you finish..... people get bogged down because they stop looking at the simple little steps and look at the whole and get overwhelmed lol 

Dragged the sides I made for the landy out of one of the piles so I could get a measure..... a box of cans, a bit of distraction from mates and a little bit of work later 

38935464_497783057315429_118772651941429I have one chassis rail boxed up and with a little bit of Cardboard Aided Design the brace to run from the inside of the bottom link mount to the top of the new chassis

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Part of the deal with the box of cans was a fair bit of time just staring at the rear end and the landy side working out a plan..... more than a few things I wanted to do have had a flow on effect..... to the left you can see the original motor gearbox mount that hangs down alot below the truck, I want to bring the motor up and lower the whole truck belly about 450mm. So that means the old landy X member is in the way lol but if this goes the problem is its the support for the springs that are mounted inboard of the bottom links...... too much leverage for a short narrow sheetmetal chassis.  So I came up with the idea of cutting them off and mounting them outside of the bottom links where the structure is going to run from the chassis to the box section outrigger of the cab, this gives me an improvement (wider spring setup means more stability) and with the springs no longer there I can modify the top link chassis mounts for more triangulation (wider mounting) and I can run a couple more adjustments for the top links to increase AS........ yes I know this goes against current trends, but this link setup decreases AS as the suspension extends, the opposite of a normal link setup.... On the landy it worked really well even with a high AS and under power the suspension tracked really well so I like the idea of more adjustment just to see how the changes in performance 

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lol I'm working in Australia at the moment.....

Got a bit more done..... started working through my plan to change a few things, this pic shows just how small the chassis is and how far the spring mount was (the one on the Left is cut off but the slaggy piece on the Right is the spring mount)

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I did a small flex up to check clearance for the extra holes on the Chassis Top Link mounts, this is with the 12" shocks I was planing, I do have a set of 16" procomps sitting there lol.... if I was to drop them in I'd set it up for extra drop.... dunno 

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Might be a little delayed on this one as I need to do some engine work on the 40 series and I've got ALOT of paper work and research to do on a new project.... an airbaged 6 wheel toy hauler custom beaver tail truck with I'm guessing an old BMC truck cab (didn't really want to do it now but the cab kinda landed in my lap and I've always wanted a toy hauler lol)

 

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