De Ranged Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Yes it is.... Here is my reasoning, the space framing will weigh in abit lighter... offset by by the bars in the guards, this leaves the only really heavy items to go on being the bonnet the front bar and the steering box In favor of my measurement the weight is being assessed 100mm back from where the spring will be mounted given how much forward (leveraged weight) the motor is this should offset the steering box (lighter but a whole lot further forward) this was the only spot to clamp to So that just leaves the bonnet and front bar In CAD I have adjusted the spring seat so it angles down another 2 deg to compensate for some of this, also so that to ride height the spring will always be under load (this gives me body load on the wheels at full drop), I have also not set the length or placement of the shackle to the axle this allows me alot of adjustment... I have also left room for one additional leaf in the pack to help with tuning As you can see there is alot going on The final shackle length and the make up of the pack will be sorted once I'm up and running, spring rate from testing and the shackle to set ride height To be honest I don't know much on the Buick stuff we don't see any of it... I do know this was a copy of the 3.8L V6 originally by Holdern Australia (GM) they then improved on it, what I have is the first improvement the series II motor.... they arn't flash, cast block antique thing to be honest but they have bucket loads of torque for a petrol, are robust and best of all common and cheap lol To be honest the LT95 happened because I had two of them lol and given what the later model stuff sells for here.... seen a LT230 case sell for over $800 on our version of ebay!! thats roughly 400 pounds I'm not buying one lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 Got a bit distracted building an exo cage for a mates Hilux so he could enter an upcoming comp... and been working on a little chopper bike project got an offer of some custom art work for it so had to pull finger on it But it was my birthday today and sort of had the day off.... to play on this lol.... Been waiting on some information on mods for the trans, might be rebuilding it as I've had to strip it down to get the output shaft out for shortening (got given another from a mate that he had drown'd, these trans have water based glue on the brake band so if they are filled with water are a throw away... end result I've started splining 2 shafts) Set up a mounting setup in the mill and did the rough'ing cuts Bonus to this is the original spline count is 27 the same as the spline I need to cut so I have indexed off the original, this is the output end and is the shaft from my mates trans that had already been shortened by 30mm for use with an Isuzu transfercase.... you can see how much shorter you can go lol Anyway by the time I had rough'ed both shafts the light was bad enough in the shop I decided to leave the finish grinding for another day so I decided to remove some of the chassis I don't need Before After Also stripped the front axle housing out so its good to weld up the mounts.... left the swivil housings on so I could set angle from steering arms so I get caster correct Got a couple of other jobs I need to be doing so there maybe a bit of a wait till the next installment lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Needed the drill press so needed to finish these lol well that was the excuse Swopped the disk out for the profiled disk and 3 more passes on each spline..... with time in between to keep heat build up down, don't want to concentrate heat on the tips of the cut splines.... took most of the day but got one shaft done Then machined up the female splines on the lathe... or more to the point machined the flange off a hilux diff flange to leave me a female spline lol female splines are beyond my tooling With that done I cut the excess off the shaft and mounted it in the lath and flap disked 0.2mm off the major dia of the spline so the female can fit over Beautiful fit just needs tapped on, spot on the money, with a bright light on the spline ends I can't see any daylight between the spline surfaces I wanted this one to be tight as it is the smaller of the two splines.... now I have to find a female spline to fit to the gearbox shaft on the LT95 shaft Here is a comparison pic the long shaft has only been rough'ed but it shows how much I've shortened the output Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deep Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Looks like you are going to have to be your own spare parts supplier! Some serious changes since I saw the beast... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Looks like you are going to have to be your own spare parts supplier! Some serious changes since I saw the beast... Lol hmmm I think that will be an understatement, keeping the roof and back of cab... got a new bonnet and grill headlights from a sII thats about where the landy stuff will end oh and 1/2 a chassis lol As for the parts that is what the extra shaft is for I'm machining it up and will drop it into another trans as a spare as I think the spine I cut will be the weak link in the system due to Dia.... its only 26mm minor (under the spline) it feels too small.... but thinking about it I have a torque converter pushing it which should cushion it and I have never heard of a pinion flange stripping or shearing on a hilux (the female spline) and is why I went for there.... it allowed me to shorten the gear train by another 50mm, the other spot I could have splined it (where the two oil holes come out which would have given me a major of 30mm and minor of 28.5mm but it does have a 5mm hole in the center Some times you have to take a guess and roll with it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deep Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Some times you have to take a guess and roll with it lol An educated guess! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Also stripped the front axle housing out so its good to weld up the mounts.... I spy a "diamond style" diff casing there...is it a whole new axle, which would could lead to some differential & shafts upgrade, or a simpler DIY, cut & weld diff pan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Yep its my version of a diamond, Hilux balls, swivels, hubs and diff nugget (4.1 ratio) The housing plates are 10mm lower half and 6mm upper and is that tight I had to cold chisel some of the internal welds to clear lol, the head has an internal gusset and then machined to fit the tube in.... the axle tubes are brought up to just under the inner drive axle (for more ground clearance), this is the reason for the double ring things at the ends these are there as support for the balls as they hang out the base of the axle tubes so I needed some extra strength The long side is the same length as a hilux long side, short side is a custom length 20mm longer than a 40/60series cruiser short side This gives me a full width of outside tyre to outside tyre of 1.90m with 9" wide rims and standard hilux hubs and no spacers Currently waiting for a set of longfield axles from the states, since I have no plans for front fiddles and I can only run 35"s (club rules) I shouldn't have to worry about cv's Brakes are late model IFS Hilux 4pot calipers that have been narrowed lol yes narrowed, to fit 40 series vented cruiser disks that I have machined and drilled 2.5kg's off each disk (less rotational weight more hp) Steering arms are mine machined to the correct ackerman for 102" and have aftermarket king pin bearings on a larger king pin seat Steering balljoints are 80 series into custom tie-rod and draglink That about covers it.... still got to make the matching rear tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Thats some impressive list of bits that are 'just laying around' are you sure this is still the same cheap and cheerful project from the first post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Cool, homemade Rock Assault axle then.I always liked the idea of the offset tubes, can't really say how much difference it makes in real life, but it's nice to see something different. Yep its my version of a diamond, Hilux balls, swivels, hubs and diff nugget (4.1 ratio) (---)... the axle tubes are brought up to just under the inner drive axle (for more ground clearance), Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thats some impressive list of bits that are 'just laying around' are you sure this is still the same cheap and cheerful project from the first post? It will be the same roof and windscreen lol And yes that axle (other than the longfields) was just laying around.... built it yrs ago for a challange and never fitted it to anything, figured this is a good enough toy so.... as for price at this rate I'll be under the $6000 mark so about 2000-3000 pound for you guys, not bad on price given beadlocks brand new 35"s, turbo V6, rear mount PTO winch, Rad, tube body, exo and long travel suspension Cool, homemade Rock Assault axle then. I always liked the idea of the offset tubes, can't really say how much difference it makes in real life, but it's nice to see something different. No rock assault is a copy of this lol .... I made this before trailgear brought them out (yes I have had this sitting for a while), as for real life, given the max tyre size ruling for our club I would say this will make enough of a difference under the tubes I've gained between 3/4 - 2" on a hilux axle and just a shade under an Inch on the base of the diff with my diff being a "V" shape vs the flat or large round While I wait for the new grinding diamond I sorted the trans sump from this To this An extra liter and should be strong enough to sit level with the chassis rails and will add in cooling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 No rock assault is a copy of this lol .... I made this before trailgear brought them out (yes I have had this sitting for a while), Brilliant :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Waiting for a new dressing diamond lol I have no idea where I have lost the old one, but I need to re-shape the finishing disk before I continue So I decided to jump ahead a bit and get the gearbox shaft for the range rover transfer case sorted and ready to go After wasting the morning at different wreckers trying to find a spline close to 45mm, (size of the gearbox shaft where I plan to cut it) closest I could find was a couple at a major dia of 35mm I decided to hunt through some old bits of gearbox an trans's at the shed to see if I could find a gear... after a bit of hunting I found this I think its an output shaft from a hilux automatic transfercase.... the selector gear is splined to the shaft.... it is only 43mm but it does have the same profile splines as the smaller shaft I've already cut... so decided to run with it Machined the outter gear off the selector to leave just a splined collar then cut the spline out of the shaft (will use it to index off) The Range Rover transfer case shaft needed a bit of work before I cut the splines, it has a large fixed selector gear near to where I want to cut the splines (the twink pen mark is the outside edge of the transfer case seal so the spline needs to be to the left of this So I attacked it with the grinder and then the lathe and this is the result I didn't machine down to the major dia of the spline as cutting through the case hardening on the lathe is rather hash.... builds up alot of heat and kills the tungsten tips lol so I will rough out the splines first then lathe down to major depth, after that finish the splines While I was at it I attached the spline to the waste end of the shaft using a bit of scrap bar machined to fit in the internal oil gallery in the shaft and the section of spline this held it while I welded it in place With that done I can index the splines Things going to plan this will be tomorrows job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Transfer case shaft is done Cut and machined up Just got to mount the transfer case housing in the mill and cut a seat for a seal between the case and the trans and I'm good to start putting things together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Absolutely amazing work! Love it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 This goes straight in there as one of the most technical threads on here. I forget what the drivetrain is, but you sure are keen on having it exactly as you want it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks for the comments lol I'm by no means the most technical.... I've just found people like to see what goes on behind the scenes so I post up the "doing of it" instead of the end bit Compared to say Bills portal axles on Wildthing I'm only getting started lol but you sure are keen on having it exactly as you want it Lol this is a bit of a character flaw I have on my builds kind of why they drag out.... when I build I want my cake and eat it so to speak.... I drag my heels hard on a compromise in the hope I can come up with a solution.... why my build threads chop n change, when I go away from that part I stop focusing on it and when I come back and work out again what I'm doing I sometimes come up with better ideas One of my excusses for being slow lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 Been working on the "sandwich housing" that joins the two cases, needed a good surface to bolt up to on the Rangie transfer case While I was at it I cut the seat for the transfer case input seal The end result It has two levels I know but I had to machine the lower bit down due to a casting hollow With the face ready I made the plate to match, and faced it true on the mill, all the bolts coming through from inside the transfer case are counter sunk or recessed.... that was a bit of fun, as I wasn't able to get a counter sink bit in there so all of them had to be cut in with a die grinder by hand, a real slow process of rough out, high point with blueing ink, cut high points, blue etc till it was close then using a long bolt that I ground a couple of cuts into the head and a drill on the thread pulling it through polish the counter sink The trans end was just a case of trim and machine up a bit of 25mm plate May get this all joined up this week.... will depend on how hard I have to work on a mates truck to get him to a comp lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I am following this thread with keen interest even if I don't post many comments. I like your ingenuity and resourcefulness. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 I'm with BVS on this one, also forced to reconsider getting rid of the Elliot mill I bought, I don't have any tooling for it, and I think it is just too dear to start from scratch,.... but when you see here what is possible then it does make me think twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 29, 2014 Author Share Posted May 29, 2014 Thanks for the comment Bill Don't sell the mill, what I'd give for a decent mill... this one is a piece of carp lol its a classic early Chinese nock off... nice as a drill press but as a mill... lol the worst problem is the spindle slop..... but if I take my time and keep double checking the measurements it can do Keep your eye out on ebay for second hand tooling,or if its not something you'll use often look at the Chinese cheap stuff... my boring head is one of these, the cutting tools are carp but are easy to make my own Oh and I don't get it right all the time..... I'm now lathing up the 4th PTO carrier shaft lol a silly mistake that did in both the cutter and the shaft when I was cutting the splines Right need some help.... been long enough since I pulled the transfer case apart I can't remember how it went back together, anybody know of a schematic that shows all the bits catch is the idler/selector shaft stack of gears etc is a bit short.... something is missing Also.... was showing off the center diff to a mate and noticed the side gears are "notchy" is this the clutch packs loading up the gears and normal or do I need to strip it down ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 Limited slip centre diffs are quite rare as they were only fitted to the very early RangeRovers. If yours is a non LSD type and the gears feel notchy, best strip it down for inspection and at least fit a new set of thrust washers to the bevel pinions. A dummy intermediate shaft,just short enough to slide between the thrust faces inside the t/case is handy for reassembling and refitting the intermediate gear assembly.drill and tap the end of the dummy shaft so that you can screw a bolt in to extract the shaft out the back of the case once the gear assembly is in position. someone here may be able to post an exploded view of the assembly, but the stacking sequence from memory is = steel teardrop washer, bronze thrust, steel spacer ring, needle bearing unit, large gear,steel spacer ring, bronze thrust, needle bearing unit, range change gear assembly, steel spacer ring, bronze thrust, needle bearing unit, small gear, bronze thrust, steel teardrop thrust washer. You may want to modify the intermediate gear assembly for tapered roller bearings, similar to what the AUS military Perenties have fitted, as these are reputed to hold up better to high performance, high load work than the standard bearings and thrusts. I personally don't like the LandRover supplied taper roller kit and would prefer to copy the design that Ritter Automotive in Melbourne made back in the day when they were fitting 5 litre stroker engines to 4spd Rangerovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted May 29, 2014 Author Share Posted May 29, 2014 Lol I'm getting soft three late nights working on a mates truck.... I feel nackered.but we are almost there just a tuning issue and the front e-locker and he is good to drive down for the comp Thanks Bill. looks like I have lost a tear drop.... the diff definitely has clutch packs you can see them located through the housing, whats the call on this...keep it or replace it I thought the tapered roller trick was to replace the small plastic caged roller bearing on the "PTO" cover input shaft.... lets just say I have sorted this with overkill edit Just done a bit of research lol really need to pull finger and get to the shed I now see what the taper roller thing is about..... makes sense if I was towing, but for a trailer queen that will see 20 days use a yr I'll just setup properly with some new phosphorus bronze bushings (might have to talk to rover spares anyway to get another teardrop if I can't find the old one lol) Right time to go lol to many distractions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 If the bevel gears and clutch packs are serviceable, i'd keep them. They are a spicer/salisbury Pow-R-Lock ramp loading type LSD that only 'bite' when there is some resistance at the spinning wheels, so the clutch packs generally last well. I don't think replacement gears are available anymore, so if they are knackered you'd need to fit the later non LSD centre diff assy, or do some machining to fit later gears in the LSD carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 or Ashcrofts now do an ATB center LSD if you want to keep an LSD in the center and yours is on its way out! and if the pricing of my rear ATB from them is anything to go by then it shouldnt be that massively expensive either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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