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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:

I'm guessing so the effective link length is longer and flatter. Gaining some ground clearance as a bonus. 

Sounds like good guess :i-m_so_happy:

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Your both sort of right about the longer length 

With out going into a huge post on suspension dynamics, I'm guessing you both know about Triarged 4 link calculator..... I had a version that I've put alot of time into, one of the extras I'd added was graphs to show the different values at different travels and the rate of change in these values, I'm demonstrating to a client the reason why the common rules apply (you know, flatish bottom links, top link two third the bottom link etc) So I was adjusting the mounting points to extremes (shortened the top links and lengthened the bottom link by changing its mounting to behind the axle) the rear mounted bottom links was to counter pinion angle due to the now around 1/2 ratio top links and to extend the bottom link length to show my point ....... I had made my point and he understood, but I noticed the AS graph had reversed..... normally it is a linear rise as the suspension drops, this time it dropped as the suspension dropped!

Now one of the issues with high AS for offroad is as you are using the AS for acceleration it extends and locks out the suspension so if we are on rough ground we loose traction because the wheels being carried over the bumps not tracking them......   I couldn't get my head around this changed graph the dynamics of it lol right AS is the jacking of the suspension under acceleration yes, so as the suspension pushes up (= and opposite reaction thing) so for the push up there is more down force on the tyres.... more grip ..... in a classic suspension as it extends it changes the link angles and you get more AS generating more down force etc 

This odd suspension lost AS as it extended, so...... accelerate, we have a high AS so the links push the body up, but as they push the body up they change there angle causing less AS.... do they now drop down? or stop and find a balance where they aren't pushing and locking the suspension out?

I really couldn't work it out..... would it cause the back end to bounce (push up and drop down, push up and drop down) or would it extend and go stable 

So I built it on the old landy and its about to get reused here on this..... it worked on the old landy and I'm hopeing it works on here 

 

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Thanks for clarifying De Ranged :i-m_so_happy:Makes good sense, suspension geometry is not only a very complicated subject but also one of personal preference, that is what makes it a subject that keeps me intrigued :D

On a more factory type 4x4 I can see some potential clearance issues with your setup though, but of course not a concern in this instance ;) 

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Been thinking and since this is a trials style toy I want the tyres clear of the guards....... has anyone seen a dovetailed series landy lol, the back end with some skins to look similar to a shorty tub deck  dovetailed I think would look really cool.... its the front guards I can't seem to get the look right in my head lol anyone seen it done or better yet got pic's surly I'm not the first to consider this.....

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Is that your camper project in the background?  Glad it's still around!

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Had a bit of a day on it yesterday not much to show for all the hrs put in but I'm ready to sling the motor in and mount it 

Made some engine mounts 

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And yes my travel speed was all over the show with these welds lol the welds are non critical and I'd been in the shed for 13hrs and wanted to go home so I cheated (wound up the voltage and wire feed and sprinted lol) I should have left one un-buffed they were a nice blue colour 

And here's what took so long 

Finished the rear lower link mounts, added a temp X member and removed the old gearbox one (was bent) then went over the chassis fixing previous dodgy repairs, gouge marks and a couple of cracks that resulted from these so now I'm ready to sling the motor in and mount that 

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Motor is sitting about right.... still got to finalize placement depending on if I can turn the intake manifold to face forward going to take a bit of time to strip all the carp off the top of it so I can see 

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The whole truck and chassis will drop when I'm done 

Here is a shot from the back both of us are going to be sitting on a bit of an angle, and there wont be alot of foot room  lol but its do-able 

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Had one casualty transporting and moving the motor around 

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its one of the egr valves so if the computer can play without it then I'll blank it off and run without 

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Got some of the engine mounts done 

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This one was alot of fun lol

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Got the one on Drivers side to do.... its the worst as all the bolts I have to mount to are in one plane 

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Thank you.....  I have to admit the shade of green was a pleasant surprise lol you never know with yellows and greens what your going to get 

 

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An awesome build! I look forward it coming together as you certainly have cut it up a lot!

Nice fab too! I do like a well made bracket!

Steve

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Thank you, the original buggy had enough serious issues that by the time I'd fixed them I might as well have done what I've done 

Did a scrap run to get rid of the bits I'd cut off...... $5000 worth of buggy cut up is worth $70 of scrap lol 

Got the engine all mounted and the sides in place on temp outriggers, the main outriggers will be the leaf spring mounts, these will have to wait till I have the cage and the balk of the weight in as this will set the angle of the spring mounts. I've mounted these so I can mount the cab and sort the rear cage, our competition rules state that the cage must have a rear downward brace to the B pillar so I'm going to run the cage from the end of the chassis rails to the shock mounts out to the top rear corners of the dovetailed tub capping and then to the top of the B pillar.... still haven't worked out in my head yet how I'm going to do the triangulation for the recovery hook 

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I the cab and body will be roughly a normal shorty length, but the WB is 100" I want the tyres out front and rear 

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hows that for a flat bottom 

 

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10 hours ago, landroversforever said:

That setup has a hint of Will Warne about it! The big box sills and bulkhead shape. 

I ran a bit of search for that name..... managed to find one pic on pin interest..... that looks like a very cool build you wouldn't have a link for the original build ?

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Hadn't seen Will's thread till now, shame it's just gathering dust somewhere:o

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Thank you for that...... I'll read my way through that at night when I'm back at work, just glancing through there is alot of inspiration there...... he's gone more of a tank style than me, I want light weight, it does mean my body front and back is going to be softer but I'm hoping with the dovetails this will help protect it some 

 

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On 10/6/2018 at 9:36 PM, De Ranged said:

Thank you for that...... I'll read my way through that at night when I'm back at work, just glancing through there is alot of inspiration there...... he's gone more of a tank style than me, I want light weight, it does mean my body front and back is going to be softer but I'm hoping with the dovetails this will help protect it some 

 

I can't remember Will's design weight, but it was surprisingly light. It looks heavy but Will is definitely a man of lightness! (Not just his small stature :P, he's a lotus man).

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Lol trust me compared to how a trials buggy is built that thing is a tank.... I'll use probably about half the amount of tube..... you'll laugh at this but I'm seriously considering building the windscreen, cab and roof out of alloy...... I want them because club runs we run in alot of thick forest 

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This is an open good track on a sunny day lol you really want a cab on a bad day when everything is dripping!

I might have just complicated things lol I just bought 4 of these 

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Finally back in my shop 

Anyway something caught my eye as not right.... where I'm building this is on an uneven piece of floor so the truck is on an angle and things just look wrong alot due to this lol well turns out this wasn't the case.... my cab width is 30mm narrower than a standard cab lol the windscreen was pushing the top of the sides out

After contemplating things for a bit I decided to not make the cab wider.... I don't like compromise and the narrower the cab the better, even if it is only 30mm, I was planning on making a new rear cabin piece to lighten it up so modifying the windscreen was the only issue and its simple enough..... I did decide to keep the roof tho, as making a new lighter roof is way into the "why the F did I think this was a good idea...." zone lol so I'm taking some of the taper out of the top half of the cab 

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15mm out of each side, I'll keep the laminated glass as anyone who has gone poly will tell you glass is wonderfull when there is mud.... no scratches

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Not the easiest stuff to weld galv tin foil lol you need more heat to burn the galv off where you can't grind it off but the thickness of the material doesn't like the heat

its all done and got a coat of cold galv on it now will cut the windscreens back tomorrow and glue them in. Had a bit more time so started sorting the rear tub (well what is going to hang there to look like one lol) once this is done you'll understand why I refer to Wills build as more of a tank style 

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Had a good day in the shed..... 

Finished the adapter manifold to turn the intake manifold around.... got it painted before I came home. Needed this done so I could set the height of the windscreen as I've made the call to shrink the whole cab lol its the whole competition thing 

So to this end I've been doing alot of measuring, going to make the cab 1560mm wide at the base and I'm going to put the tapper back in the top section lol it just didn't look right..... when I bolt on the adapter manifold so I can lower the windscreen down to the intake manifold.... this will be about 75-100mm lower I'm taking this out of the section where the vents are below the windscreen 

Shrinking the cab is going to make this look a lot american as I'm planing on running a widened front axle I make a while back with the 35x10.5 Silverstones outside wheel to outside wheel it will be 1855mm wide (club and most of the competitions) With the 36.5x12.5 Simex's on 10" wide rims it will be 1985mm wide...... so there will be alot of tyre sticking outside lol 

Hopefully more tomorrow

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