bill van snorkle Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 or Ashcrofts now do an ATB center LSD if you want to keep an LSD in the center and yours is on its way out! and if the pricing of my rear ATB from them is anything to go by then it shouldnt be that massively expensive either Do Ashcrofts make the ATB's for the LT95 ? I thought only LT230 and axle differentials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deep Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 I made a dummy layshaft out of a bit of plastic downpipe! I cut a lengthwise groove in it so I could squeeze it to a smaller diameter. Because the uncompressed diameter is slightly too big, this means that, once all the gears etc. are fitted, it expands and holds everything nice and tightly. Then it is very, very easy to pull out once everything is in place. I'd send it up but looks like you've got a solution already. This has been one of my all-time favourite bodges! P.S. I noticed someone selling an ordinary (non LS) centre diff on Trade Me in the last few weeks, around $150. Not such a huge disaster if you ever have to replace yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Do Ashcrofts make the ATB's for the LT95 ? I thought only LT230 and axle differentials. my apologies, i just assumed when i saw center diff that it was LT230, although knowing that RRCs have the LT95 i should have known better! maybe i should have read his post more carefully when he mentioned the rangie xfer case haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 Thanks for the advice....I haven't cracked the diff yet to see what its like in there, not too stressed... worst case I weld it and run it locked, till I find another lol it is trailer queen after all Not too much progress.... been a bit distracted with re-doing the screw up lol But I've almost caught up lol anyway as a distraction I made up the cone that will join these two together Started out with a bit of offcut pipe that had a wall thickness of 10mm, cut a "V" in one side and belted the carp out of it with a hammer till I got the small ends to touch With the small end welded it was time to form the cone, a little bit of fix'ing to hold it while I beat down the bit that crossed over and a couple of good shots with the sledge Trim it off and weld and we have a 10mm wall cone When I have the cases lined up on the splines I'll machine this true to the case faces and weld in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 Stripped the diff..... lol I'm guessing some muppet has improved it in the past No friction plates on either side, there was no bearings for the spider gears just a hexagonal hole that is too big and I'm guessing they added more drive plates because it was under slight tension when the housing bolts were done up its no wonder it felt notchy lol Looks like I picked the wrong case to do this too lol right need to find me a new diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 The hexagonal holes are standard and they are intended to work as 'ramps'. The bevel pinion shafts ride up the ramps, pushing the bevel pinions hard against the side gears and load the clutch plates against the carrier. For an axle diff it requires a degree of resistance at both wheels for the LSD to bite, and if one wheel is off the ground or on a very slippery surface this is achieved by an initial application of the brakes. For a centre diff there may be enough resistance at the front and rear diffs for the clutch plates to bite, even with a wheel in the air, but once again an initial brake application will enable the LSD to bite harder for better traction. The LSD will only be effective whilst under load. Lift off the throttle and it reverts back to an open diff. All else fails you still have the diff lock . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 The hexagonal holes are standard and they are intended to work as 'ramps'. The bevel pinion shafts ride up the ramps, pushing the bevel pinions hard against the side gears and load the clutch plates against the carrier. I wondered if that was the case given the clearance between the spider gear bevels and the sides of the holes But with out the friction plates to tie the side gears into the clutch packs it has been running fully open, and with the extra drive plates preloading the gears.... this is the notchy feel, this preload is that great the spider gears can't do anything other than roll left to right, this has worn contact points into the ramps and because of the extra preload it has started to damage the seat that the side gears run on.... all n all not a very bright mechanic who modified it this way Would have been cool to play with but Its F'd lol Found a LT95 box out of a 96 model for $100 so I'll grab that, hopefully the diffs are interchangeable.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 AFAI Remember The LT95 LSD just has steel clutch plates without any friction material . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 lol sorry I just worked out where we are crossed up.... the diff clutch packs have no plates that attach to the side gear(what I was refering to as friction plates), they are just one type of plate that only touches the housing.... effectively turning the clutch pack into a stack of shims that is that tall it is binding the diff gears when assembled this has ment the side gear seats are damaged and the housing where the spider gears sit has worn badly too There is no way this could work as a slippery other than for the side gear bearing to bind on its bearing surface If you want I can take some pic's lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 lol sorry I just worked out where we are crossed up.... the diff clutch packs have no plates that attach to the side gear(what I was refering to as friction plates), they are just one type of plate that only touches the housing.... effectively turning the clutch pack into a stack of shims that is that tall it is binding the diff gears when assembled this has ment the side gear seats are damaged and the housing where the spider gears sit has worn badly too There is no way this could work as a slippery other than for the side gear bearing to bind on its bearing surface If you want I can take some pic's lol Right, I'm with you now . Just for interest sake, if anyone wants to rebuild a LSD centre diff. I believe the clutch packs crosspins and bevel pinions are identical to those used in Dana 27 Power lock LSD's and maybe other models too and could still be available in the USA. Side gears unfortunately are specific to LandRover due to unique shaft splines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 Been busy with stuff that takes ages but doesn't look like much at the end lol Since I finished machining a new PTO drive shaft I might as well get the drive ring sorted Took close to a day to file the splines to mate to the drive teeth, this is the input shaft for the transfer case There is the "new" PTO drive shaft The two join like this, with a weld in the "V" between the two bits and then the whole thing slips over the end of input shaft locating on the old bearing surface on the end of the shaft There will be two bearings holding the PTO shaft.... because I had two bearings that size so thats what I used lol The shaft has since been welded and machined back and is mounted in the mill waiting for me to cut the splines in the end for the PTO dog clutch Got the joiner sleeve done as well And I'm just about done with the adapter Got to take it off and mill true the face that is to be welded to the trans end and cut and true some support ribs then weld Oh the inserts welded in the cone are so I can install/remove the trans mounting bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 The finished adapter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Does the panel think it will handle the torque Proper job that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Lol Just found a PDF manual for the LT95, was curious about fitting the latter model hi ratio gears from a 110 (around 10% lower geared).... as luck would have it there is a good schematic now this is where it gets scary lol the selector setup on the intermediate shaft for hi low is different mine has a set of 3 dog pins that engage vs a syncro style gear on the normal ones Looking more and more like I might have to bin this case and redo alot of work lol Oh and there may be a wee design change..... been watching a bit of Ultra4, really appeals, we don't have anything like that here (yet)... but we do have a class for winch comp trucks in offroad racing... looking into the rules at the moment might mean a bit of redesign on the suspension/ride height.... lower my chassis height down to 450-475mm and build it with more up travel probably 6-7" up currently set at 4" and add in hyd bumps edit Hmmm may rethink this lol I'll be in the top class with the big boys "thunder trucks" I fit for the sport class apart from one thing the chassis.... you are only allowed to chop 200mm off the front lol Will think on this for a bit.... these guys are 200kmh+ on dirt roads in plantation forest, huge power and huge up travel..... 6-7" and an old commy just don't cut it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 A wee update.... waiting on bits for the box to be freighted, so the rest of the box is on hold, have received a parcel tho from Rex @ Landrover spares, a set of new seals for the transfer case Also got the last joints to do the front suspension, got a small problem thats stopping me there.... Been over the Off road racing rules and I think with some packaging changes I might be able to make the chassis fit the rules, waiting on clarification from the local club so suspension is on hold lol So decided to sort some of the body, so made up the 50x50 box pillars that will hold the roof and the rear body bar work And yes I have lowered the roof by 40mm, made that decision when I did the windscreen, I'm going to have deeper foot wells so I'm going to recline the seats a little Got the panels cut to fit might weld them in this weekend, then I drop the cab back on and profile the brace that will support it Also had a guy move his toy into the shed, a nice condition SII swb station wagon, he wants to strip it right back and rebuild it with a turbo Isuzu diesel, power steering and a decent brake upgrade, I'll give him a hand with the difficult stuff... means I'm going to have to work out a bolt on disk brake conversion that will keep our transport authority happy on a bonus I can use the same for my lwb when it arrives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deep Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Also had a guy move his toy into the shed, a nice condition SII swb station wagon, he wants to strip it right back and rebuild it with a turbo Isuzu diesel, power steering and a decent brake upgrade, I'll give him a hand with the difficult stuff... means I'm going to have to work out a bolt on disk brake conversion that will keep our transport authority happy on a bonus I can use the same for my lwb when it arrives I'll be watching that brake conversion with interest. I've had it with my drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Will be putting the a front axle on the bench this week and work out options from there, rear axle I'm uncertain on yet got to talk to the certify-er about it and based off the weight and Kw increase.... goal is to have the paperwork go off within 2 Will more than likely use toyota parts as I know them well and have a good recipe, modified double diaphragm boster off a late model hilux/V6 made to fit the landy pedal box (same as this build) VX cruiser master, kz/V6 hilux 4 pot vented caliper front and what ever disk I can find to fit lol Anyway got the side panels welded in, dropped the roof on so I can use the back of the cab to help make a template for a brace to run across the cab this is also what I will tie the top harness straps in to Didn't have enough sheet to cut the pattern (shed mate cut a chunk off the end of a sheet I was saving, so hopefully Mon he will be replacing it) then some cool stuff will happen lol Blocked up a seat so I can see how it felt should be all sweet.... won't be doing the seat box and mounts till I have the motor gear train mounted tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Lol Well I have confirmation from the Offroad racing scrutineer Chassis rails must remain complete, they can be shortened by 200mm at each end and narrowed up to 230mm, no notching/cutting or kinking but I get to remove add modify cross members as I like and I get to position the chassis rails anywhere in the vehicle lol Hmmmm will take a couple of days to think and play with this one.... might be stitching the chassis back to original shape Got to add the bits I wasn't concerned with into CAD but the rough idea is narrow the front and push the chassis back behind the front axle and tilt the chassis up at the back lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 De Ranged, have a look at my series 3 front disk brake conversion, its bolt on and (barring front shafts and a machined hub adaptor) its all standard LR off the shelf parts. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69587 If you choose to use it or any ideas from it, i wont be held responsible for anything that may possibly go wrong, either in the creation or the use of it. but you knew that anyway haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Thank you for that, stripped the axle last night and after measuring up found the mounting tabs on the hilux caliper don't want to fit...knew there had to catch lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheesy Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Lol Well I have confirmation from the Offroad racing scrutineer Chassis rails must remain complete, they can be shortened by 200mm at each end and narrowed up to 230mm, no notching/cutting or kinking but I get to remove add modify cross members as I like and I get to position the chassis rails anywhere in the vehicle lol Hmmmm will take a couple of days to think and play with this one.... might be stitching the chassis back to original shape Got to add the bits I wasn't concerned with into CAD but the rough idea is narrow the front and push the chassis back behind the front axle and tilt the chassis up at the back lol Is there anything in the rules about changing the wheelbase? If not you could stretch it to say 100 or 110inch and with the 200mm off each end that might give you a bit of space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Yep doing that sort of working around the 104" area, I'm not one of those that gets hung up on WB an inch here or there isn't going to have that much effect Got to draw up alot more in CAD yet, before I make the decision, might even have to 3D profile it yet (hoping to avoid this as I'm not good at this in CAD lol).... I'm old school I still work in Orthographic (plan, elevation and side view) catch is my drawing is getting real congested, even with layers and being able to turn things on and off lol Might post up a pic of the plan when I'm finished... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I am old school I still work in Orthographic..... I am very pleased to know I am not the only one! ....After a recentish post of mine (actually on smart phones) I have tried downloading Autodesk 360, which, when I got into, I realised the whole cloud thing was precisely what I didn't need. Then changed to Autodesk Inventor, which is self contained, but I struggle to get a feel for it and up to now I have failed to download and install the materials databases which mean that non of the frame generator side of things works anyway. Still waiting for some response from Autodesk so am even less likely to part with $7000! Have gone back to Autocad 2D. I did download something called sketchup, (eventually... carp website ended up with Sketch something else first,...had to go back twice to sort that!) but I haven't launched it yet till I get a free day cos the free trial is only 8hrs! Anyway I would love to know what software(s) you are doing all this in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 I'm working in AutoCAD 2010.... I really like there 2D tool set, the 3D stuff I find auckwood, but that maybe just because I haven't used it enough, back when I got AutoCAD I tried a few products, turboCAD, good price but found there interface left me frustrated, but at I think it was $240 it is increadable value, Solidworks, If i was doing 3D I would have got this.... I found it the easiest 3D to use simple and very productive, (with the best tutorials)... but the 2D tools left me frustrated lol and since I problem solve in 2D it lost out The other reason for AutoCAD is there file type is a factory standard here lol I send DFX everyone can open them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheesy Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Im the opposite, I hate doing the 2d stuff at the end! Especially plastic parts with all the drafts and rads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.