Snagger Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Hi folks. I'm not really familiar with the Puma transmissions, so could do with a hand identifying a noise in the rear transmission. When the engine is producing minimal torque, like coasting, or under engine braking, the rear end makes a repetitive noise like a damped rattle. I had initially thought it could be the rear door lock rattling until I spotted the pattern relating to engine output. It seems particularly noticeable after a medium to long drive where everything has warmed up, and then crawling at low speed gives a regular knock. The car makes an odd "chucka-chucka" noise on start up and shut down, which I believe to be the dual mass flywheel (first one I've had use of). It could be related, but then again might not, but it's a similar noise to what we hear as this driving noise, and with the added background noise of wind, suspension movement and tyre roll, could possibly be the same noise. My list of candidates are: rear brakes; rear prop shaft UJs binding; transmission bounce of the dual mass flywheel (I gather the clutch and flywheel aren't that reliable on the model). All suggestions welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 If its the brakes, the noise would typically go away if you press the brake pedal lightly so give that a try... Puma defenders dont have a dual mass flywheel afaik. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 No DMF as above. I believe your "chucka chucka" would be the EGR doing it's self-clean cycle. I've certainly heard it when shutting off Tdci Defenders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 The chuck chucka is indeed your EGR valve doing its stuff - on shutdown. The rattle could well be coming from the transmission brake, it's a well known fault on some Puma's caused by the shoes dragging on a not quite round drum, try backing the shoes off a bit by turning the adjuster nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Thanks guys. I'll look at the brake and I'll pull the prop shaft to check the UJs by hand (not just check for play, but also binding or roughness, which can't be done fitted). The rear brakes squeal a little as the brakes are released gently, despite thorough cleaning, so I'll replace the pads too. I'll post the results of what I find once I do the work - it'll have to be done next week at the earliest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Two of the three Tdci Defenders I've driven for decent periods (an 08 plate 110 and a 12 plate 130) have had awful transmission slack. I'm not sure where in the drivetrain it was but it made driving them rather unpleasant with the constant banging and crashing from underneath under any sort of power up-take/off-take. After a short while you could adjust your clutching technique to allow for it, but it was still there. The 90 (10 plate) however was lovely, everything was a tight and play-free as you'd expect for a two-year old car. Not sure if it's the same as what you describe but it's worth checking everything is as it should be underneath with minimal rotational play in the driveline. Could be some chatter or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 The rattle could well be coming from the transmission brake, it's a well known fault on some Puma's caused by the shoes dragging on a not quite round drum, try backing the shoes off a bit by turning the adjuster nut. I agree ^ awful noise, people usually expect to need a new gearbox and are dead chuffed when they find out it's 5 min with a spanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 If it was the brake, i'd imagine simply pulling it on would allow you to tell for sure its that without even having to get underneath? If the noise goes away (or changes significantly) with the brake engaged, its likely to be the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 ^^Yes, as long as the application is done gently, yanking it on might result in some expensive noises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 The rattling sound seems to be getting more noticeable when the vehicle has done 10 miles or so and everything is warmed up, though is still fine when cold. I jacked a rear wheel up and turned it over by hand (hand brake off and transfer box in neutral) and found a clonk every second turn of the wheel, or every turn of the diff. The sound is definitely coming from the rear diff housing. A quick call to Aschrofts for some advice (thanks, Dave) suggests a damaged crown wheel with either a crack or a high spot. Since we have only owned the vehicle 9 months and LR Approved Warranty is 12 months long, it should be covered, saving me a job and few quid. I wonder how hard I'll have to press them, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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