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Penetrant sprays

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A couple of things got me thinking about these proper releasing sprays recently. The main thing at the moment being the driveshaft that's seized into the hub on my brothers Volvo.

So, my question is, what releasing/penetrant sprays have you had success with, and where do you buy them. I like the convenience of halfords (especially with a trade card!) but they don't seem to sell the most commonly recommended spray - Plus Gas. Is this the best, is it cheapest to buy it off of eBay? What others do you use?

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We have some silicone release spray at work, no idea what brand it is off the top of my head, but that works really well :)

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I couldn't find Plus gas from any of my local car shops inc halfords, so I used the halfords freeze/release spray, seemed to work OK for the job I wanted to do, IMHO Plus gas is probably the best.

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Like you I too use Plus Gas. I get mine from Cromwell Tools, Don't bother about price. Get both spray and normal can. For what I do now they last me ages.

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Good question for me too. I used to use wd40 - couldn't find plusgas - but recently have been using diesel in a spray.

The diesel seems to work well, certainly works out cheaper, but I've not used plusgas to compare it to.

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We use john deeres penetrating oil, much better than wd40, also good for cutting drilling and tapping lube.

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Yep, I too get my Plusgas fix from a 'proper' motor factors. Ebay/cromwell/etc also do it. As Mmgemini says, the can actually lasts quite well, as you use it sparingly 'cos it works!

Also keep plenty of WD-40 handy, it's not a penetrant but it does 'lube' threads so that muck/cr*p falls off easier, especially on suspension components. I always try to give a squirt of WD-40 the night before starting a job, followed by a stiff wire-brushing to remove the schmutz. If, after that, the fastener still looks like it'll cause grief, it gets wiped off and doused in Plusgas.

Matt

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I find plusgas much better than WD40. I buy it in bulk from my local Engineering supplier which makes it reasonably priced too.

Duck Oil is pretty good and diesel is good for soaking parts too.

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had some success with halfords shock and unlock, not expensive with a trade card either :)

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Yep, I too get my Plusgas fix from a 'proper' motor factors. Ebay/cromwell/etc also do it. As Mmgemini says, the can actually lasts quite well, as you use it sparingly 'cos it works!

Also keep plenty of WD-40 handy, it's not a penetrant but it does 'lube' threads so that muck/cr*p falls off easier, especially on suspension components. I always try to give a squirt of WD-40 the night before starting a job, followed by a stiff wire-brushing to remove the schmutz. If, after that, the fastener still looks like it'll cause grief, it gets wiped off and doused in Plusgas.

Matt

When I'm at work and I find WD40 in any of our Issued team kits-I tell the blokes on my team not to use it on the weapons(Firearms) as it evaporates and doesn't lubricate the working parts for long or properly for that matter.

John

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When I'm at work and I find WD40 in any of our Issued team kits-I tell the blokes on my team not to use it on the weapons(Firearms) as it evaporates and doesn't lubricate the working parts for long or properly for that matter.

John

Yep, like I say I use it to loosen crud and allow the nut to wind over the bolt easier - not as a penetrant (which saves using expensive plusgas where it's not needed).

Also, my local RFD told me never to use WD-40 on firearms as it affects the blueing. Whether he was just trying to sell me expensive gun oil I'll leave up to your judgment. :glare:

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Having tried WD40 and the freeze and release stuff and a few others I use a cheapo :blush: £1 land stuff in a big tin and I am embarrassed to say it seems to work and it’s errh well a £1!!!

Perhaps it’s because I tend to use more of the cheapo stuff over several days rather than being mindful of price… :rolleyes:

j

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Yep, like I say I use it to loosen crud and allow the nut to wind over the bolt easier - not as a penetrant (which saves using expensive plusgas where it's not needed).

Also, my local RFD told me never to use WD-40 on firearms as it affects the blueing. Whether he was just trying to sell me expensive gun oil I'll leave up to your judgment. :glare:

I was told a while ago that WD40 acts as a corrosive on metal and never to use it on firearms as it will remove as you say not only the blueing-but also will eat away at the other finishing treatments such as parkerisation(sic) which will be detrimental in the long run to your pride and joy-Rifle oil is the only way to go when maintaining a wpn of any discription

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There's acids as well, that eat their way into rust. More of a pro-active penetrant.

I was thinking about it for the steering relay.

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Duck oil or Plus Gas, both very very good, I bought 5l of duck oil years ago, and still got some left :)

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I was told a while ago that WD40 acts as a corrosive on metal and never to use it on firearms as it will remove as you say not only the blueing-but also will eat away at the other finishing treatments such as parkerisation(sic) which will be detrimental in the long run to your pride and joy-Rifle oil is the only way to go when maintaining a wpn of any discription

We use a strong industrial version of WD40 in our steel works specifically as an anti corrosion oil as it is water dispersant, and in the short term it lubricates the cutters when processing the steel. It does evaporate and this makes it unsuitable for medium/long term lubeing.

I was not aware that it could affect colour hardening on weapons but I stopped using WD40 on guns a long time ago when a gunsmith warned me that it can seep into the end-grain of the wooden stock / fore-end and cause the wood to swell and even decay. Like yourself light gun oil is the way to go.

I like Plusgas/ 3 in 1 for freeing and silicon/PTFE spray for lubeing.

Barry

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Best I've ever tried was La-Co Rust Buster. First time I used it in anger I was afraid of snapping the manifold to downpipe bolts because I could feel them flexing. Applied the stuff cold, 5 miutes later the bolts just unscrewed with no drama at all.

Sadly I only had 2 bottles, and I've never seen it for sale in the UK since :unsure:

EDIT : ...... Except on ebay :i-m_so_happy: - I'm going shopping....

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At one of the shows, someone gave me a sample of some stuff called Mechanic-ALL - which is truly remarkable!

m20s-6n.jpg

Unfortunately, I cannot remember who it was - and I cannot find anyone in the UK selling it (for less than £10 a can, when you can buy it in the US for $5), otherwise I'd buy it by the case!

It appears to work in the same way as WD40 - heavy oil dissolved in a low viscosity volatile solvent. The solvent carries it in to a mechanism then evaporates leaving the heavier oil.

However, the lubricant it leaves behind stays there and provides much better lubricating properties. To the extent that I've found nothing better as a lube for machine tapping threads in Duplex Stainless (high temperature & surface pressure). It even smells nice, sort of vanilla, that makes me feel hungry!

Si

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Hi

For dismantling I use something as simple as a solution of 50% acetone and 50% ATF Dexron III. Just remember to shake it before use as it seperate.

Can't remember where I read about it but it works and penetrate well.

Lars

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This is the absolutely best stuff i have ever found for rust penetrant , freeing manifold bolts , agri stuff as well , got introduced to it in australia , am trying to make my last can last out , as dont seem to be able to find UK source , its a US product .

http://www.cyclo.com/C10.html

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For dismantling I use something as simple as a solution of 50% acetone and 50% ATF Dexron III. Just remember to shake it before use as it seperate.

You have to be a bit careful of Acetone as some plastics (ABS for example) are soluble in it, as are some paints!

I've used fast thinners / spraygun cleaner mixed with EP90 or ATF as a substitute - both work pretty well. Increase the proportion of thinners to make it penetrate more and Oil to make it lubricate more.

Si

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alcohol induced disclaimer:having been very ignorant and only read the first couple of posts before deciding to reply, i would like to firstly add my 2p, and secondly apologise if i needlessly repeat what has previously said.

Right, I can definately reccomend plus gas,
another option i can also reccomend highly is this Loctite freeze spray stuff, its designed primarily for stuff like exhaust manifold studs and stuff and works on pretty much anything siezed.

GT85 is a better alternative than WD40, as you will probably all know WD40 is actually designed as a water dispersant primarily and not a penetrating oil. it just works quite well so they maximised on that. although neither of these are as good as the above two.

now, if you have lots and lots of beer tokens, and often deal with siezed bolts, studs, nuts, dowels, teaspoons (funny story actually) and and anything you can think of, you could look along the lines of this it only heats a concerntrated and can be supplied with a range of different sized coils, all of which can be bent every which way infinite times. Having personally used this product in conjunction with an incredible set of snap on sockets and electric impact gun on a ford focus crank pulley bolt, after spending HOURS with penetrating fluid, 6 point sockets, an air impact gun, a breaker bar, buggering about with all sorts of methods of attack and even hitting the fork out of it to try and break the rust. it took 10 mins to remove with this piece of equipment and i was gobsmacked!

now im upset because i couldnt personally justify spending that money on one, although it is more portable, and less dangerous than oxy acetylene, and WILL get anything up to at least 70mm in diameter solid glowing red. yet you can touch the surrounding metal.

come to think of it, oxy bottles and pipes and torch and everything else must cost nearly the same? no?

:ph34r:

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At one of the shows, someone gave me a sample of some stuff called Mechanic-ALL - which is truly remarkable!

m20s-6n.jpg

Unfortunately, I cannot remember who it was - and I cannot find anyone in the UK selling it (for less than £10 a can, when you can buy it in the US for $5), otherwise I'd buy it by the case!

It appears to work in the same way as WD40 - heavy oil dissolved in a low viscosity volatile solvent. The solvent carries it in to a mechanism then evaporates leaving the heavier oil.

However, the lubricant it leaves behind stays there and provides much better lubricating properties. To the extent that I've found nothing better as a lube for machine tapping threads in Duplex Stainless (high temperature & surface pressure). It even smells nice, sort of vanilla, that makes me feel hungry!

Si

Si - if its sold in Europe it might well have to have a substance safety data sheet and Coshh details etc....

If the can shows any references let me know. Our oil blenders may be able to replicate it. Perhaps not as an aerosol but as an oil thin enough for spray bottles.

Just a thought

Barry

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Comma Freeze release stuff works ok but being ham fisted still doesent stop me shearing them off before I think to apply it :unsure:

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