western Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 helped a friend sort his loss of drive on his 110 Td5, in the front drive shaft there is an internal thread, looking at the hub bearing change threads in our tech archive, it suggest using one of the drive member bolts to pull/keep the shaft pulled out so the shaft shim/circlip can be refitted, although the thread seems & feels to fit, when any decent force is used to pull the shaft the bolt thread slips, so does anyone know what this internal thread type/size is ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash.Witty Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Not too sure on a Td5 but if I remember correctly they are 7/16" unf threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Thanks Ash, I'll find a suitable bolt from work & do a trial fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Someone told me once they were a UNC thread, what I do know is that no bolt I've ever had has fitted! Have usually managed to wedge something in there enough to pull the CV home into the stub axle though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 I had to do this today on a disco of all things-I usually use one of the drive member bolts and placing it into the end of the CV joint where the thread is and hold it at an angle to pull the CV joint towards the drive member this is after I've torqued up the other 4 17mm headed bolts on the drive member, Works every time I have to do it 65NM for the torque setting on the bolt hth John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 That's what I used John, but pulling it square to the shaft it felt to be slipping, we got the right hand side to move out to refit the circlip, but it couldn't get the left shaft to move, it would push in but not come out far enough to see the circlip groove outside of the drive member, we even tried driving around the carpark & along the road, but it still wouldn't move., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Ralph, did you fit the drive member with 4 of the bolts tightened up-torqued up too and then try it with the bolt as I described above? the reason I ask is because I had problems in the past and what caused it was the drive member not being fully home-If you get what I'm saying? Too much sealant or too thick a gasket perhaps? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Yep, all 5 bolts tight & a thin paper gasket, still didn't want to move, new drive member & one of my spare thick early type would slid on, even back to front, the splines were cleaned out to & well lubricated., my friend is keeping a watch on it & knows how to fit the circlip if the shaft decides to play the game, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Yep, all 5 bolts tight & a thin paper gasket, still didn't want to move, new drive member & one of my spare thick early type would slid on, even back to front, the splines were cleaned out to & well lubricated., my friend is keeping a watch on it & knows how to fit the circlip if the shaft decides to play the game, That maybe your problem then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 we did the opposite side to with a new member & that fitted OK, even tried with the removed one & still couldn't get the shaft to sit in the right place, we will be monioring the situation & hopefully it'l sort itself into the right place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 was the stub axle changed? Theres a bush thing in the back of it which sets how far out the CV joint can move? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 No, stub/hub was not removed only the drive member was changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 just to bring this to a close, Thanks all for the info, great as always, I got to the subject 110 yesterday & when we looked at the LHD front shaft it had sorted itself out & the circlip/shim could be easily refitted, so all sorted now & my friend is happy it was not an expensive fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Niceone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 Resurrecting an old topic. Did anyone ever find what thread the hole in the shaft is? Just changed the drive members to HD ones, due to being fed up with the rubber caps always leaking, one shaft was tight so I went to the bolt box. Conclusion was they are 7/16" something, but not UNF or UNC, though UNF does screw in about 3 threads which was enough. I suppose being a LandRover they could be BSF or even Cycle thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 7/16th BSF is what they are. The pitch on cycle thread would be way to fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 I did think BSF, but didn't have one to hand, could have pinched one out of my old 2 stroke Atco mower I suppose. Trust LR to use something few people will have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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