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1976 series 3 rebuild

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Right, thought I'd chuck my rebuild on here :)

As some of you may know I've got a 1976 series 3 diesel which I got off my granddad. At long last now comes the time when we can actually start work on it. I'll post the before pics on here (I know they're on another thread but this'll keep it consistent...I hope). This will hopefully turn out to be my first car and our aim is to rebuild it so its sort of like a bespoke one the factory may have made for a paying customer (e.g. better interior and the like). Its got a 2/5 N/A diesel fitted which I'll keep and we're going to fit power steering to it.
If this looks familiar to some, it is on another forum but I know quite a few on here don't like that forum so thought I'd stick it on here as well, it may help some people doing the same thing or it may not but its very pic heavy and everyone likes pictures :) I have made quite a bit of progress, this is just whats been done so far
And after we started work on it :) Looks different doesn't it?
Next job was to winch the series into our garage using my dads 110 (the starter motor's knackered on my engine). Next job we did was remove the bonnet and stack it up against the wall. Front and rear lights were removed then (headlights and bowls will need replacing). The next job was removing the driver side door and then starting to undo the wing.
Me (on the left) and my brother taking off the light surrounds
Close up of the headlight connectors (they just pull off)
Taking off the front apron
The "good book" on the wing :D
Just some of the "wiring" on the vehicle
both wings are off. Here's some more pics to bore you all with.
Bulkhead looks good, only a small patch of welding on the corner by the drivers side and a new footwell is needed.

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Seats out


Back door off


With no roof



his post shows how we removed the seat box and the rear tub.

Floor before removal


The gater for the red high/ low range selector lever


It is held in place with 3 screws


After the driver's side floor has been removed


The battery isolator that my granddad fitted behind the driver's seat


Removed overdrive lever (It is held in position using a locknut which must be loosened before the threaded lever can come off)


Removed the yellow knob so that the tunnel could pass over it


Tunnel removed with seat box still in place


The front cab with seat box, floor and transmission tunnel removed



We wedged blocks under the tub to lift it off the chassis one bit at a time so it wouldn't get stuck as we tried to clear it off the chassis (made it much easier to remove)



Before we did anything else we put a latex glove over the fuel filler on the fuel tank to stop any carp getting down there (we had disconnected the filler and breather pipe (?) before attempting to lift the tub)


The tub off the chassis






After removing the rear drop plate we discovered the only major bit of rot on the entire chassis which was lurking behind it



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We decided to remove the sills so they wouldn't get damaged if we were tempted to lean on it


Top of the fuel tank


The data plate (just thought I'd include it really :) )


The fuel tank removed, There was about an inch of muck that was compacted behind the tank.


Removed the prop shaft








Notice the water on the floor which came out of one of the rear shocks :eek: New ones shall be bought I think ;)




We also removed the handbrake to clean all the parts, here are a few pics of that (may be of use to someone I suppose)




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Grinding the rot back into a square which makes it easier to make an accurate template and apply to the metal The metal we're using to weld to the crossmember are new discovery sills which are roughly the same thickness of steel as the crossmember and as we don't have the disco anymore we might as well as put them into use for something :cool: )



I also decide to fill in the hole where the old towing electrics went to (just to make the back end look a bit neater really) which are now next to the back door of the vehicle.


Welding in the square plate


Cleaning up the welds with the grinder


Metal trimmed to shape for the towing electrics hole and temporarily pushed in to sow the nice fit achieved


After painting black to see how it looked



Now on to the inside edge of the crossmember

There was a small-ish hole either side that required patching and the vertical angle strips needed a part chopping out and replacing


Then a plate was welded in at an angle which will hopefully remove some of the water traps in the crossmember




And finally the rear section of the chassis was painted in red-oxide


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we removed the hand throttle from the fron tof the cab



components on the other side of the bulkhead for the hand throttle




The rear axle was also refitted and giving a coat of red-oxide



The new shocks were fitted



The handbrake linkage was removed to allow the gearbox to come out easily



The cable for the speedo drive was disconnected next, it is held on by three screws which need a flat bladed screwdriver to undo

The nuts around the bellhousing were the next things to be undone which was carried out with a 17mm socket

Gearbox mount


Undoing the mount using 14mm spanners/ sockets


Transmission brake drum


Clutch slave cylinder was the next thing to be removed


A pulley block was attached to a beam running along the garage cieling and was used to take the weight of the gearbox as we slid it off the bellhousing to reveal this:



The gearbox, we believe an oil seal may have gone on this due to the abundance of oily sludge in the bellhousing and around the gearbox (some over 10mm thick :eek: )




me and my dad hoisted the engine (the mighty 2.5 n/a diesel) out of the front

We started by removing the front panel and radiator as one piece and then disconnecting various ancillary components such as the fuel filter, throttle cable, clutch pipes, various wires etc. The battery holder was also removed using a grinder (It needs re-welding anyway)

The engine mounts were next to come off (these had thankfully been copper greased before so came off pretty easily, much easier than the gearbox mountings in fact). The whole vehicle was then shoved down the garage until the engine was under the hoist and a pallet truck slid underneath the front of the chassis.

The engine was hoisted up and the rolling chassis rolled back, the engine was then lowered on the pallet truck without any hassle. The landrover was then pulled back up the garage using my Dad's Defender 110 after we moved our trailer out of the way first.

The final job of the day was to remove the front wheels and place the front on axle stands, this gives us much better space to get at and clean the chassis at the front.





















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The tub was taken outside so we could clean all of the muck off the bottom. We started with wallpaper scrapers and then resorted to using the jet wash to result in a clean tub.



The fuel tank was cleaned and given a coat of red oxide


We then proceeded to take the dash board off. We've got a lot of pictures of how this all fits together so hopefully this might help somebody










Front vents were removed (we'll be replacing these seals)



Some of the dashboard wiring


Dashboard off the vehicle



The heater control mechanism (the wire connecting one lever to the vent was snapped so will be replaced)


The fusebox (a new fusebox with modern fuses and relays will be used when it comes to rewire the vehicle). For anyone unsure of where the original fusebox is, it is located underneath the steering wheel



The front propshaft was removed


The rest of the welding was then attended to

Drivers side front outrigger where the end had corroded. The end was cut out and a new square piece of steel was offered up and MIG welded to the chassis.



There was also a hole on the fuel tank outrigger that needed sorting so the area around the hole was cut out and a piece of steel was welded in its place.




A small hole in the bump stop bracket was filled with weld


Meanwhile, the front propshaft was stripped of its red hammerite and given a coat of redoxide. Whilst the red oxide was out I gave the rest of the air filter a coat.




The windscreen was removed by undoing the bolts holding it to the hinges. The rivets holding the mesh behind the vents were drilled out



Some of the rust that was found when the vents and dash board were removed. These areas will be fixed by welding new steel to replace the rotten metal.



The surface rust behind the windscreen was given a coat of ku-rust which will stop the corrosion before it gets too bad.


Other than these areas and the footwells, the bulkhead isn't too bad at all.

The windscreen wiper mechanism (motor and screenwash jets) were then removed

This nut on the wiper needs to be loosened to allow the wiper to slide off the shaft


This nut can then be undone and the wiper spindle should be able to go into the cab area, making the whole assembly a bit easier to remove. Before taking it all off the bulkhead, the motor was supported by rope around the bulkhead to prevent it dropping and causing damage.


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When cleaning the front end of the chassis, a small hole was found in the front drivers side dumb iron which was then repaired by welding


A new earth bolt was also welded to the chassis in the back end. This was done so that we could have more earth points to run the wires to and should help if any problems with earths arise in the future. (the tube is just to mask it whilst painting the weld with the red oxide)


Holes were also found in the bulkhead crossmembers which were welded up and then the crossmembers were given a coat of red-oxide


A shot of the rusted drivers side footwell


The 4 way brake pipe fitting on the chassis near the engine bay, this was retained along with other brake fittings (just in case)


The chassis on the drivers side all given a coat of red oxide


To give the chassis extra protection, we borrowed some international grey/ silver 2-pack paint that we used to paint the chassis and the underside of the tub. This will hopefully give the chassis an extra layer of protection. It will be painted gloss black over the top of this. In this colour the chassis looks like a galvanised one :)




More work on the dashboard, this time to fix the heater vent which had the snapped wire from the vent control in it and was siezed.


There are 18 of these small slot headed screws that hold the dashboard bottom in place. Some were stubborn to get out so required the use of a hammer hitting the end of the screw driver whilst trying to turn it to help free them. In this process the vent mechanism (really 2 plates attached to a bar and a piece of spring steel) came free.



The vent mechanism in operation, it is really simple :)





The wire that had snapped


The dashboard underside (the steel bits) were given a coat of ku-rust


The sender unit was temporarily removed to check the bottom of the tank inside (thank you for that advice :) ) and we found that is clean inside. Before taking the sender out we marked the position of how it went on, just in case we forgot and put it in the wrong position for the wires that connect to the tank). There is a rubber gasket underneath the plate.


The axle was given a coat of black (some gloss paint bought from wilkinsons)


The bottom of the fuel tank and one side was painted as well


We then proceeded to paint the chassis :)






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Painted both propshafts, finished painting the fuel tank and gave the dashboard a coat of red oxide (seen standing up against the trailer we made)





Right the fuel tank has also been refitted to the chassis and the dash was given a coat of black. This will get some soundproofing fitted before going back on.



We've also been working on the bulkhead. I know that footwells are a common thing that need replacing on old land rover so it may be beneficial to someone if I put the photos on here of how we did it.

The old footwell showing the rust that needs to be cut out


The chassis was covered with a dust sheet to protect it when we were grinding


Masking tape was used to mark where we were cutting out. Before cutting, it is important to measure everything using datum points to make sure you can cut the new footwell accurately.


The part of the old footwell was cut out using a cutting disk in a grinder


The old part of the foot well that was removed


The new footwell, this was red oxided inside as it helps make scribe marks more clear


The old footwell piece was placed in the new one and was scribed around to give us the basic outline shape to cut out, this gives the basic shape and leaves metal for adjustment later, especially if you mark out the piece oversize to this.




Masking tape was placed along these lines to make it clearer where we were cutting. Arrows were drawn on the tape so we knew which side to cut and avoid any mistakes by cutting undersize


The new part was then cut out of the footwell


It was then offered up and because we had cut it oversize, needed adjustment to fit. Its better to cut oversize as you can trim it to give a good fit. Eventually we got it to fit like this




The other footwell was pretty solid with only the corner having corroded. This was duly cut out


Instead of cutting the metal out of the new passenger side footwell, we found an offcut of the other one and this was trimmed to fit.


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After the drivers side footwell was repaired we started work on the gearbox. It was put on top of an old trolley type thing to make it more comfortable to work on.

The cover plate over the gearbox was removed as we would need to be able to look inside to carry out the work. It was covered over again afterwards though (but not fastened) to prevent any dirt getting into the gearbox.


The oil was then drained out of the overdrive into a clean plastic tub


The nuts holding the overdrive to the gearbox were then removed. These nuts are threaded onto studs and a couple of the studs came out with them, nothing to worry about, the stud was held with a small pair of mole grips on the part with no thread which allowed the nut to be removed. To put the stud back into the gearbox, again we held it with the mole grips as it allowed me to tighten it up sufficiently.

The overdrive was removed by just pulling it back from the shaft. We discovered that the locking washer behind the mainshaft nut needed replacing.

To remove the mainshaft nut and the locking washer, you first need to use a punch to lift the locking tab from the nut, allowing it to be undone.

The nut was then undone by using a punch to undo it ( there is a special spanner for these nuts but we don't have one). To replace, the washer is put on the shaft, then the nut and the locking tab is punched over so it will prevent the nut from becoming undone.

The next job was to replace the rear oil seal from the transfer box as it was leaking. (The overdrive was left off as it meant there was a bit more room to work and we needed to get some gasket paper and hylomar). The first job was to remove the handbrake cover and then this nut

Behind the nut, on the end of the shaft there is afelt washer type thing, this was carefully removed as it could be reused.

The next job was to remove the hand brake assembly. The shoes are held in a recess by two very strong springs. A pry-bar was used to lever them up out of this recess, doing this means the springs can be removed and the shoes can be moved out of the way. The back plate was then also removed to give good access for removing the seal.

The oil seal was then removed. A new one was bought, we took the old one with to check it was the right one. To fit it back in the transfer box we placed it as square as possible and then tapped it into place by using a hammer and a piece of 2x1 (The wood is so that the hammer wouldn't hit anything metal and cause damage). It is important to work your way round the seal to make sure it goes in square.

With this job done, I removed various bits and pieces from the gearbox so they could be cleaned up and painted, these being the mounting brackets and the overdrive lever and bracket.

With the oil seal now replaced, it was possible to re-install the handbrake back plate.

I was also able to cut a new gasket for the overdrive out of some gasket paper

Hylomar was smeared around the gasket to give it a good seal (Both sides) and the overdrive was slid into place. (Befotre this though we had to trim the locking washer, the 2 spare locking tabs were preventing the overdrive from going on properly so they were cut of using a punch.

The overdrive cover plate was stripped of that red plate and given a coat of gloss black (the same paint as the chassis) Here it is replaced

The handbrake was then rebuilt. We found that the springs kept falling out of the handbrake shoes when we attempted to fit them so large split pins were used to prevent this. It was a struggle trying to extend the springs enough to fit the shoes correctly but we managed it in the end :)

The drum and the drum cover were then replaced

The parts I removed earlier were cleaned up and painted and here is the gearbox, all complete

First job when working on the engine was to remove the clutch by undoing the bolts that are located around it. These came off fairly easily

With that out of the way, the next task was removal of the flywheel which is a very heavy peace of kit. This was removed by the bolts in the centre. The yellow marker was on the clucth so that we knew which way to put it back on when it came to refitting. We also did the same to the flywheel but this time with a centre punch

To undo the bolts, you need to stop the flywheel from turning. We did this by using a pry bar against the teeth of the flywheel ring gear. The bolts are tight so we used a breaker bar. If anyone's wondering, this has to be done if the engine is going to be fitted to an engine stand.

After removing the flywheel, to be able to place the engine on a stand the flywheel cover needs to come off

Before removing, there was a bracket holding some wiring and piping near the fuel lift pump which was removed just to give a bit more access.

On this engine, the rear crankshaft oil seal was leaking so will be replaced. While we were at this stage it was decided to remove it.

With all that out of the way, we then bolted the engine to the engine stand

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After the engine was bolted to the stand the first thing we did was to remove the fan, fanbelt and the alternator. The fan (a type of plastic on this) is bolted the water pump pully with 4 bolts which were pretty simple to undo once the fan was stopped from rotating.

This pipe was the next thing to be removed. To do this, all thatwas needed was to loosen the jubilee clip closest to the engine block

The engine mount brackets were then the next thing to be taken off (well the passenger side one at least, I left the other one for a while to do something else)

Next to be taken off was the inlet and exhaust manifold. These are 2 separate parts so if you undo all the bolts make sure one does not fall.

Some of the pipes were then removed as well as the plug for the alternator

Much better access to work now :)

The fuel filter was the next thing to go.

These hoses had to be removed before it could be taken off. When the hoses are taken off the pump, it is important to cover where the hoses fit on to the pump to stop dirt getting in as everything has to be clean.

The injector pipes were next. These were removed through the use of injection pipe spanner (like 3/4 of a ring spanner with an open end to slot over the pipe )

The heater control thing above the thermostat was next to go, this was undone with an adjustable spanner,

The next thing we did was to remove the injectors. To remove the injectors, the 2 bolts holding them to the block were removed and a brass drift was used to "lift" the injector up to be removed (it makes more sense in real life :) ). Before removal, the injectors were each numbered so we knew which injector belonged to each cylinder. The spill pipe running along the top of the injectors also has to be removed. Its worth noting that at the bottom of the injectors there is a copper washer, some came out with the injector but another was left in the hole.

The next thing was the cylinder head, the first task being removal of the rocker cover, held on by 3 bolts.

A bit of thick string/ rope was passed around the rocker assembly to keep it all together. This didn't need to be taken apart so will stay like this and just be cleaned with paraffin.

The glow plugs were removed at this point to avoid damage

The pushrods were removed. It is important to keep them in the right order so a bit of cardboard numbered 1 to 8 and each pushrod pushed through by the corresponding number (1 being the front of the engine )

The cylinder head bolts were then cracked off by going round in opposites (it does say in the book which order to this in). They were first done with a breaker bar and then a ratchet and socket could be used.

Needless to say new gaskets will be purchased.

The thermostat was then removed. When it was replaced previously my granddad smeared copper grease around the studs which meant the bolts came out easily. I've heard of people having trouble with sheared bolts but I think doing this when it is replaced helps to stop bolts siezing.

The next thing was removing the valves. For this a valve spring compressor was used.

With the springs compressed, the collets could be removed. It is important to keep each component with the valve it came from and to keep the valves in order.

We found that the hotpoints (te part where the fuel comes through were cracked. To remove them we used a punch down the injector hole to push them out of the head surface.

Since the head was now disassembled, the head gasket was carefully scraped off and then the head was left in a large bucket of parrafin to help clean/ degrease it.

Whilst it was soaking it was decided to remove the old worn starter ring gear. The flywheel was held in the vice and a hacksaw used to cut through the gear making sure not to cut into the flywheel metal itself.

This was then placed on the floor and held upright. A sharp cold chisel was used on the cut made by the hacksaw and hit with a lump hammer. When doing this it is important to wear safety glasses so bits can't fly into your eyes as well as wrapping a cloth around where the cold chisel will strike, keeping the airborne parts low.

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Next up the sump, all of the oil was drained out of this previously.

The new plate cut to fit the width of the hole

The welding of the tub

There was also a large crack in the rear wing behind the wheel arch which was also welded and a section of the floor was also welded in.

I then set about undersealing the tub, we put about 2 coats of underseal on, the first was thinned and brushed on to get it everywhere (thats why there are light patches)

That was then left to dry and I went to look at the exhaust. The original plan was to get a stainless exhaust but we decided to look at the old one and if it was good to use that (Save some money :) )I put it on my dad's folding step thing and took the brackets off and wire brushed the exhaust, finding no holes at all, it is very good :)

The only problem we found was that the bit of metal clamping the exhaust to the bracket had snapped on one of them so a new one was made out of some metal strip and bent to same radius as the original, 2 holes were then drilled in it to allow it to be bolted to the bracket.

We had some high temperature silver paint which is also the stuff used on the manifold and I set the exhaust up across 2 trestles and set about spraying the exhaust sections, looks quite good I think :)

As you can see from the above picture, we also started to run the new brake lines, we've done the back axle but we've run out of clips which are now on order. THe exhaust back section is also now back on, looks like new :)

And the horn bracket was also cleaned up. For masking up electrical connectors (on this they are the flat rectangular type) I don't use masking tape but put a spare spade connector on which prevents any paint getting on the contacts. you can see them in the picture (the brassy looking things)

We had to push the landy outside so we could get sand and cement in as my Dad's building a new deck outside the kitchen and wants it concreted :)

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The head was washed off with paraffin to get all of the grinding paste and dirt out of it and the first job was to do the hot plugs. We weren't able to get the roller pins out as they were solid so they were reused.

Grease was smeared around the plug to help hold it securely in the head.

It was then placed on the head, locating the recess in line with the roller pin

It was then tapped in with a rubber mallet until almost flush and then gently tapped with a hammer and a brass drift until flush with the rest of the head. We don't have a dti so this was done by feel (you can feel with your fingers if its flush or not but a DTI would be more accurate) and it should be within the tolerance specified in the book

The valve components were then washed in paraffin (one at a time so as not to get things mixed up, this is important with valves) and then the valves were replaced, starting with No. 1 at the front (the thermostat end of the head)

The valve was pushed through and then the oil seal was put in place. In the head gasket set there is a pack of 8 oil seals and they are of two different types, one type has a spring in the groove and a smooth exterior, these are for the inlet valves only. The other type is just a plain groove with 4 little rib type things along the outside and these are for the exhaust valves. These will push down the valve and will sit in a groove so they can't come out again.

I don't have any pictures of this next bit so will have to try and explain, the spring and the collet retainer plate (this will only fit on one end of the spring so it will fit properly) were then slid over the valve stem. A valve spring compressor was then used, keeping it central to the valve, the spring was compressed enough to be able to put the collets on correctly. When the collets are both on, release the spring compressor but very slowly so you don't get your fingers stuck. The collets should now be in place preventing the spring and the plate from coming up the valve. Next you can gently tap the plate holding the collets to help bed them in.

I hope that makes sense to you?

Anyway here's the head with the valves done

Glowplugs and the injectors were next to go back on, the glowplugs were given a clean and then put in the head and torqued up to 18 lb/ft (the book says between 11 and 22 lb/ft is correct.

The injectors were then cleaned with a paintbrush and parrafin, (away from the nozzle and the hole fuel enters to stop any damage occuring) to get rid of the carbon and old oil that was baked on a couple of them.

Before fitting an injector, a copper washer must be fitted to the bottom of the injector housing tube. The old one may still be in there so be sure to take it out. If its tight, you need to get a screwdriver and tap the washer with a hammer, this will eventually buckle it enough to allow it to be removed. Only 1 was stuck like this on our head and this is how we removed it. The rest came out with the injectors.

To help allow the washer to be located centrally you can put it on a screwdriver and put the screwdriver down the injector hole and slide the washer down it.

The injector can then be put on, ensuring it seats correctly (if it doesn't it either means it isn't sitting correctly on the copper washer or it is just tight on the threads, in which you can lightly tap it down.

The head complete except the rocker shaft

And the rocker shaft placed temporarily on the head, this will be tomorrows job along with measuring the bores.

So the first job was to check the bore size. We used some internal callipers and then measured the distance with a digital vernier. Doing this we found the bores to be standard size with next to no wear in them at all.

The piston rings were then checked to see what the gap was like. To do this a piston ring was put in the bore and using feeler gauges we found the gaps to be about 1.5mm far bigger than any of the specs given in all of the books we have (about 3 times bigger than it should) so new rings will be bought on monday from L & R in Bryngwran.

The next item on the agenda was the 2 broken studs at the bottom of where the water pump goes. To get at these, it was decided to take the whole front of the engine off. We did try drilling a stud out but the drill wouldn't touch it and there was too much stud to drill out anyway.

The 2 nuts on the idler wheel bracket were slackened allowing the tensioner to move. The belt can now be removed.

The camshaft pulley was then taken off.

Its worth noting that each of the shafts has a woodruff key holding the pulley in place, in the case of the crankshaft, it has 2.

The injector pump pulley wouldn't come off using a pry-bar so we had to make a puller. I found a disk of steel in the workshop / shed that was big enough. The distance between the holes was measured and then marked on the disk. The holes were then centrepunched, drilled through with a pilot drill and then drilled to the final clearance hole size for the bolts

It worked quite well :)

The crankshaft was next removed using a pair of pullers (the ones with a pair of legs and a thread running down the middle. This picture shows where the 2 keys sit

The oil seal was leaking here and will be replaced.

Next was to get the injector pump off, this little connector on top of the pump was removed, the outer sleeve is tapped forward until you can lift it off the pump. Before taking the pump off we scribed a line on it and the casting on the front of the engine so we can put it back in line properly as it came off.

The bolts and nuts were then removed using a 13mm spanner

With the pump off we could now start to remove the casting at the front of the engine, this required use of prybars, a large mallet, a fox wedge and a wallpaper scraper to try and get it to move.


The 2 sheared bolts

The longest one was tackled first, this was heated up using the gas torch

An 8mm stud extractor socket was used with a tommy bar to unscrew the bolt out of the casting

We couldn't use the stud extractor on the other one as there wasn't enough protruding out of the casting. The plan we came up with was to weld a nut on to the end of the thread and then use a spanner or socket to undo it.

The Arc welder was chosen for this because it was quicker to set up

Success :)

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The first thing we did was to rotate the engine so the sump was on top. We had found the crankshaft to have a good deal of end float so whilst we're at it the main bearings might as well be checked, good job we did :)

The oil pump was taken off to give more room. There are 2 bolts with a tab washer on each holding this to the block. The tab washers are knocked out the way with a punch and the bolts undone. The mallet was used gently to persuade the pump to come off :)

With that out the way, it was time to undo the main bearing bolts. These were first cracked off using a socket on a large breaker with a pipe on the end for added leverage

With the bearing cap taken off, the crankshaft could be lifted out

The rearmost bearing is much thicker (widthways) than the other 4

Before putting the pistons back in the bores, it was decided to run a glaze buster in the bores. Before doing this the oil pipes in the block which point upwards (into the bore) were removed.

Here is where they sit. They will only go one way due to a locating peg

The glaze buster in the drill

The oil pipes could then be refitted and the bolts torqued up.

As there was endfloat, new thrust washers were bought. Here they are sat on the third bearing housing (looking from the front) A smear of grease on the side helps hold it in place. you can tell where they go because there is like a shelf either side of where the bearing goes for the washer pieces to sit on.

The new main bearing shells from C & A in Bangor :) (you can see the wider rearmost bearing shells)

Before lifting the crank back in, oil was squirted on the bearing faces. This is so that when the engine has its first start there is oil in the engine so it doesn't run dry.

The crank was cleaned and put back then the first 4 bearings were put back on.

The rearmost bearing shell housing has an oil seal either side which needed replacing (the L shaped bit on the side)

A bit of hylomar helps give a good seal and hold it in place

The bolts were then torqued up and then the oil pump was put back on (replacing the gasket as well when it was fitted)

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Three pistons, minus the rings.

Each piston was then carefully cleaned using an old piston ring to clean out the ring grooves. The piston was placed carefully in the vise for putting the rings on. We found the bores to be oversize so piston rings that are 20 thou oversize are fitted

I haven't got any pictures of actually putting the rings on but will attempt to describe what we did. The rings were coated with oil to help lubricate them. The gap was opened up using a pair of piston ring pliers (like these http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/large/04/040210428.jpg'>http://www.westcountryhardware.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/C/L/CL-1801257.jpg'>http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/110samec/media/Land%20rover/P7041292.jpg.html'>P7041292.jpg

As we want to fit a brake servo, there a little thing above the oil pump which has blades in it which rotate and make up the air pressure for the servo (its hard to explain). Anyway, the plastic blades were removed before so we need to refit them.

They fit in the rectangular slots on this eccentric. they shouldn't be tight so when the engine runs and the eccentric rotates, they move out (sort of like the old ball type engine governors on old steam engines)

The whole housing was taken off so the gasket could be changed (it was weeping a bit of oil so might as well)

Here are the blades refitted

The cover was then put back on

The new head gasket was then fitted

and the head was put on

The plate which holds the fuel pump bracket was taken off to change the gasket as quite a bit of oil was coming out

Once that was done, it was time to look at the front of the engine again and to change the oil seals on the front plate.

The gasket was put on (with a good amount of hylomar blue on either gasket face to give a good seal) and the plate bolted back on

With that done, the woodruff keys, pulleys, belt tensioner and the new timing belt could go on. The old belt looked new but it was decided to get a new one anyway to be on the safe side, would be a shame to get it done and then have the old belt snap after a couple of miles.

The front cover and water pump were then put on, again with a good smear of hylomar on the gasket faces as was done with all gaskets on this engine)

The tappets were then adjusted using a feeler gauge to 10 thou. With the valve fully closed, a feeler gauge is place on the top of the valve as the screw on top of the rocker arm is tightened. When you can move the feeler gauge but still feel it drag a bit, the nut was then tightened up to lock the setting in place.

The rocker cover my Dad polished up was then put back on :)

Injector pipes were refitted (sorry for the bad light in this photo)

As were the manifolds which have been painted in VHT silver paint

The engine was again turned over so the sump gasket and sump were put back on

The fuel lift pump was leaking oil from underneath where the arm enters the block so it was decided to take it off and make a rubber diaphragm type thing between the gasket and the pump from a rubber glove to see if it will help minimise the oil leak

The thermostat was then rebuilt

A new o-ring was fitted as the old one was perished where the thermostat itself sits on the housing.

Gasket fitted, again with hylomar

The bottom half of the thermostat housing was fitted to the gasket

The other gasket for between the housing and the block

It was then bolted to the engine head. Before doing this, its worth putting quite a bit of copper grease all around the bolts as they are very fine threads and they are prone to shearing from what I've seen and read

The engine was then made ready to lift off the engine stand to do the back end using a chain on the hoist.

It was then put on the floor, made safe by putting wooden blocks under it to stop it from tipping. Once this was done the crankshaft oil seal in the flywheel/ clutch housing was replaced

This was then bolted to the engine and the bolts torqued up.

The flywheel was then put back on and the bolts torqued up to 105 lb/ft, took some effort!

After this the clutch was refitted.

bump stops have been put back on, to stop any muck getting in and corroding everything a bit of rubber was masticked between the bump stop and the chassis.

Old against new bump stop, guess which is which :)

The new front brake cylinders were fitted and plumbed in as well :)

The engine was given another coat of paint :)

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the wiring has been run through the chassis as well as spare feeds in case I want to add extra things in the future such as extra spotlights. Its been run through black conduit to keep it protected.

When we took the fuel tank off, there was a load of dirt that had accumulated behind it and onto the outrigger so to hopefully stop mud getting in we've filled the gap with neoprene rubber and black mastic

And finally we've been up till quarter to one in the morning painting the bulkhead with marine blue paint from paddocks using a brush and roller :)

we managed to get the tub back on the chassis but not bolted down so we can adjust its position later. The wires in the back were also pushed up so the lights and things can get wired in :)

We put it on blocks first to make it easier to push the wires through

Where the conduit goes through the tub, we put a bulhead fitting in to hold it tight and seal the hole, looks quite neat I think

Before sticking the engine in, we fixed the conduit at the front to the bulkhead

And then we lifted the engine in :)

and thats you lot up to date almost, i've got to stick up the latest progress on photobucket but after that itll be up to date :)

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Thanks for the nice comment :) I've just turned 18 and this will hopefully be my first car (beats a fiesta or corsa anyday :D ) and we're looking to finish before the end of August :)

Right then, the tub's been primered with 2 pack aluminium paint (we didn't have etch primer and this works as a bit of a filler so should be okay) and we've put the first bit of soundproofing in (thick carpet underlay). There will be 2 layers of this with foil in between and carpet on top which will make a difference. I also sprayed the cappings with some silver paint we had spare
The homemade speaker boxes covered in foam in place at the back
I also put the starter motor back on, this works, it was the battery at fault when we tested it before
I also managed to paint the fly mesh vent things in silver and rivet them back into place
One of the little tabs had broken when we took these off so a new one was bent and rivetted so it holds the mesh against the bulkhead
Also Last week when I was away my dad fitted a brake servo from a 110 :)

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Right, been spending a few hours in the garage tonight rubbing down the paint we used as a primer and tomorrow we should be getting a coat of blue on.

Heres a photo of the brake servo we've put on, hopefully everything will fit okay, it should fit under the bonnet

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Whats the servo off?

Will the vacuum pump cope with the volume required in that size diaphragm?

The whole unit is off a 110 (its basically replaced the whole brake tower on the bulkhead) and the engine is a 2.5 out of an early defender so I think it should be ok. as th. One of my dads mates on the lifeboat used to run his own land rover business by wrexham and has done this mod to a couple of series and says it should work fine :) We shall have to wait and see though. If it turns out it isn't good enough, I do still have the old brake tower handy if I need it

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I tried to use an early 110 pedal box and servo on my 88" when I rebuilt it, but there wasn't enough clearance to get the wing or or bonnet to shut without making significant cuts into them.

Found myself a late Series III pedal box and servo and that fitted a dream, combined with the later rationalised Series III master cylinder as I upgraded the brakes to the later dual-circuit twin-leading shoe setup that late 88"s had.

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Yeah, we thought we might have to make cuts into them but hopefully will be worth it when its on the road with easier to apply brakes :) We did look for a series 3 servo but apparantly theyre as rare as the proverbial, would have been nice to get one but this was the only one we could get after looking for about 4 months :/

Onto todays progress, I got the heater fan cleaned up and given a coat of kurust and then we got the tub painted in its coat of marine blue from paddocks

Tomorrow, I'll start sorting the wings out and the windscreen can go back on (after painting the frame)

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More progress done today! The heater fan was given a coat of red oxide and then that and the battery tray (which is made so it can be removable) was given a coat of black gloss.

I masked up the windscreen (both sides) using newspaper and masking tape to cover the glass and sprayed it with some silver paint out of a rattle can.

My Dad started to have a look at the wings which are quite badly dented at the front and then I went and took the checker plate off by drilling through the pop rivets.

Tomorrows the day i get my a level results so if I have time i might try and take the door cards off and a few other odd jobs

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Hi SamC,

All the best for your results tomorrow, I'm sure a lot of your followers are hoping so as we'll.

A very interesting and informative rebuild posting. I wish I had the courage.

Keep us posted.

Regards, Norman.

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Hello, I am following this thread with interest as I am now starting the same thing. Rebuilding my 88" pickup from the ground up replacing everything I can.

I noticed in one of your comments you said about "The Good Book" sitting on the wing. Is that one of those restore guides? There are so many of them around I was just looking for a good one to help with my build.

Thanks and good luck with the A levels.

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