Jump to content
THE 109

Alloy wheels for early 2A

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have a friend with an early 2A lwb who wants to fit alloy wheels, it has the double sided wheel nuts on it.

Are the wheel studs the same diameter as later coil sprung rovers?

Will hub/drive flange clearance be a problem, needing to use open centre wheels?

Cheers,

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can only fit after-market alloys with open centres which expose the hub - LR alloys won't fit over the Series hubs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

he has the older wheel nuts the small type I think he will end up changing hubs or indeed studs before anything will be close to fitting

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to hijack but how can I fit alloys to my 110? they won't fit and I don't really don't want to file the centres out, if i fit some cheap spacers will it allow me to fit the alloys without having to modify them??

Something like these? http://bit.ly/14G5CW0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies guys, it sounds like the studs are infact smaller but have the same PCD.

Swapping to later hubs is easy enough providing he can source some, he lives in remote Papua New Guinea.

Then some alloys with open centres like hurricanes should fit straight on.

"Landy-Novice"

What model 110 and drive flanges are you running to have clearance issues?

Cheers,

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

these are the alloys i have on my series 3, i have no idea what make they are, they came fitted to a range rover years ago.

i havent had to adjust the wheels at all to fit over my hubs, and they dont look like they've been hacked around at all.

i did have to fit longer studs to the hubs though, as the wheels are fairly thick in the centre.

post-12691-0-01058300-1376296556_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the ones I have are the same as the pic wolf alloys but they need special nuts and are 15 inch.

Fitting alloys to an early 110 with the early dive members or indeed rear drum brakes. The rear on the drum is usually ok it's the front hub protrudes the thickness of the drum brake hib face more and the alloys foul the drive member bolts. I have machined down drive members changed to cap headed bolts and counter sunk them in to gain enough clearance. I have been told some alloys fit I cannot say I agree as I've not tried any others except RRC alloys these almost fit but certainly do not and require work. If you have a later axle skinny drive member on the front or indeed domed RRC axle then they should fit no probs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Deffo those alloys in the pic I have 4 of but no wheel nuts :-( they are extremely light was thinking of using them for a comp safari racer but only 15 inch dia :-(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To fit LR alloys on older 90s and 110s with the thick hubs and drive flanges, you can either use spacers (with the incumbent increase in wheel bearing, stub axle and steering component wear that they bring, and a marked increase in steering forces on non-PAS models), you can turn the inside of the wheel on a lathe to increase hub clearance, or you can use a thin spacer and, if desired, longer studs.

Regarding the latter, my 109 has a 110 rear axle which I converted to discs using (amongst other parts) 110 front hubs. These don't allow the alloys to fit on - the inside of the wheel centre fouls on the bevelled edge of the hub between the drive flange bolt holes. A 1/4 spacer, made from the centre of a scrap brake drum, sorted that clearance out with minimal track increase (6mm vs normal spacers' 30mm). However, I was concerned about the amount of thread engagement on the studs. Wolf studs are 1/2" (12mm) longer, so I used these. That produced another obstacle - the alloy nuts ran out of internal thread 2-3 mm before pulling up on the wheels. Rather than cutting the studs down and damaging their hardening or heat treatment with the heat generated by grinding, I just used a tap to extend the threads inside the nuts and no more problem. I don't know if replacing the studs like that would be essential, but I'd rather have 6mm more engagement than 6mm less.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy