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Bobbed and caged RRC called The "JWH"


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Nice find Soren , I have an '86 V8 90 stored , it's one I first owned in '89 but sold on in '91 so when it re-appeared a while ago I bought back again . The build is coming along at a good pace , I do like your decisive approach to toys :)

cheers

Steve b 

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Someone is very enlightened in Denmark!  In New Zealand, registration gets cheaper after forty years (ten to go...) but older cars need the equivalent of an MOT every six months, whereas a new car only needs a check every three years!  It's nuts - you can wear out a set of brakes and tyres between checks on your new car but your old classic becomes a real pain.  I'm about to have my fourth check since getting the car road-legal and I've only done 10,140 km.  And every tester is different in "interpretation" of the law.  The only thing they agree on is that it's an old Land Rover, so do what you can to get it off the road.  How dare this peasant not drive something plastic and Japanese??

Rant rant rant rant rant rant rant rant.

(Sorry, I always go a little mad at warrant of fitness time!  Feel free to go back on topic.)

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11 hours ago, steve b said:

Nice find Soren , I have an '86 V8 90 stored , it's one I first owned in '89 but sold on in '91 so when it re-appeared a while ago I bought back again . The build is coming along at a good pace , I do like your decisive approach to toys :)

cheers

Steve b 

Ohh that has great affectional value to you then, and I'm sure you won't be selling that again ;) Though I have had several Defenders, I must admit that my heart truly lies with the Series. They just have that bit more character which I love. Funny thing is I swap between my Jag and the 88" on my daily commute and I enjoy both at equal amounts, just in two completely separate ways :D  

3 hours ago, deep said:

Someone is very enlightened in Denmark!  In New Zealand, registration gets cheaper after forty years (ten to go...) but older cars need the equivalent of an MOT every six months, whereas a new car only needs a check every three years!  It's nuts - you can wear out a set of brakes and tyres between checks on your new car but your old classic becomes a real pain.  I'm about to have my fourth check since getting the car road-legal and I've only done 10,140 km.  And every tester is different in "interpretation" of the law.  The only thing they agree on is that it's an old Land Rover, so do what you can to get it off the road.  How dare this peasant not drive something plastic and Japanese??

Rant rant rant rant rant rant rant rant.

(Sorry, I always go a little mad at warrant of fitness time!  Feel free to go back on topic.)

Yikes, finally some point that makes Denmark worth living in then :D With regards to the MOT testers I fear we are in the same boat though, they just don't understand true love for cars, the kind of true love you could NEVER have with a modern VW, Toyota, Nissan etc etc.

They think that the quality on new cars are soo much better, but they couldn't be further off the truth, they just seem good because they're new. Just today one of our CItroen company cars, with only 80.000Km's on the clock and 5 years old, lost drive to one of the wipers.. When I took it apart to find out what was wrong, the cast Ali arm had completely corroded away! In five bl**dy years?? 

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Just a wee update, had it outside today so thought I'd snap a quick picture. After my seats arrived yesterday I've been working on placement and fitting of those, and I've also finally found just the sweet spot for the pedal assy and steering column, this thing is so crammed together it takes some time to find just the right place for everything :)

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Oh and by the way, we're up to 1200kgs as it sits in the picture, and with the tube work not nearly done, I'm probably going to end up closer to 1400kgs which is a bummer, but there's nothing I can do about it sadly, have kept everything as simple and light as possible along the way. But that driveline just is a heavy MoFo :) 

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8 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Can you loose some weight from bits like the shock turrets? 

Seat base from angle rather than box would save a bit? 

I did a rought calculation on the matter yesterday, and If I drill out chassis, radius arms and A-arms it wouldn't result in more than about 50kgs. Shockturrets are not that heavy in stock form, but say I made some cheesy ones out of angle iron it would probably be about 2kgs saved per side. So it doesn't really add up to much, not nearly enough anyways.

You can't see it from the Pictures, but the seatbox is actually made out of 3 different materiels. 40x40 3mm wall squarebox in the front part, I see this as a structural part of the rocksliders. 40x40 3mm wall Angle iron in the sides, just there for looks and to hold one corner of the seat. And finally 40x40 1,5mm wall Squarebox between the seats to hold the inner most fixings of the seats

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Most of the weight of the chassis is actually in the cross members. The main rails are 2mm (or less when very rusty!),  so no scope for loosing weight to be honest. The cross members, however, are very much over the top for what they need to be. I lost 30 kgs from the cross members.

Other ideas are anything cast, like the panhard rod and bracket, the radius arms and a-frame. Make those all fabricated and the result will improve drastically.

 

Daan

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Thanks for the input Daan, though fabricating new A-arm, crossmembers and radius arms is not really possible within the timeframe I have on this project, but all of it except the crossmembers could of course be done on a later date. I have removed the rearmost crossmember already, so there's only the one the A-frame mounts to and the one that is bolted in that has stayed in. Oh and of course the front one under the radiator but its basically going to be my bumper so it might as well stay. The thing is I have to lose at least 200kgs by the time I'm done to be able to move it on my new Trailer. And that's not going to happen I'm afraid.. One option is to go Series gearbox, that would save me a considerable amount, but it isn't nearly as strong as the LT95, and with 35"s and possibly a bigger V8 down the road I don't think it'll live a long and happy life :D 

Anyways I only have a single picture for you this time as it has been out of the garage the whole weekend, bar just tonight. Had some things to do on the 88"

Started bending the last bits of tubing for the front. The rest is going to be straight pieces:

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Got the other side bend as well, just need to notch it and burn it in! The 35"s are on to check for clearances :) 

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It might look like I'm reloading the same picture, but there's actually 1,5 hours of work between the two :o 

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Front bar fully welded in, unnecessary bracketry from top of chassis and the radiator removed so that it will fit in behind the grille. Upper radiator mounts done and chassis rail-ends trimmed and boxed

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As all proper 88"s it needed something in the middle of the windshield area to annoy you, so a tube was added :P

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This tube is a slightly smaller diameter and thinner wall, its the same I used in the cross bar at the front. As you can see I added a bit paneling as well to get to the height of the bonnet, here's how it looks from the inside:

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This gives you an overview of just how short the nose is, only the length of a Series bonnet:

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Also just got time to fit a center hinge a center hold down in the front. All just stuff I had laying around, no fancy Billet Race stuff here :D 

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8 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Is it not worth panelling it in Ali Sören?

Indeed, I have 4 sheets of 2000x1000x1,5mm Ali standing ready for paneling :) However this drivers foot well is so cramped and complex making it out of steel, which I can weld on directly, is much easier. And its only 1mm so it won't add that much extra weight. Having kept the pedal assy and steering column bolt-in as per RR design; I hope it'll be alright for the footwell to be welded in :) 

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Thanks Steve. Got her outside today, my garage is so small its hard to get an overview, so its nice to get it outside and get some distance:

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And made a little video while it was possible:

Then I tore the seats back out and started throwing some Ali plate in it:

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Still lots of metal fabrication to be done but needed a change of pace.

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Continued on with the Ali skinning tonight. I absolutely despise this job, and had planned to postpone it till finally assembly. But logic says to do it now as its almost impossible to predict what tabs, struts etc will be needed to keep it all in place. But did get the drivers side done around the feet:

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Not much was done tonight, after about 30 mins. of work a good mate called and you know the rest.. :D But did get two struts welded in for the front skin (one on each side) and massaged the lever for 2wd/4wd inwards, much closer to the gearbox as it was right where the passengers left leg wants to be.

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37 minutes ago, deep said:

Ah, thanks.  You write so prolifically that it's hard to remember all your mods!

Haha yeah I've done quite a few mods to this thing over the years :) That's also why it was a no-brainer to buy it back as the base for this project. I could've bought a 3,9 Disco to start out with but there would be so much to do just to be where this was when I started this project. And an engine swap is nothing compared to doing all those mods.

Well tonight it was time for Winch fitment. I've had this place in my mind since the very start, a great way of utilizing empty space and keeping the front overhang to a minimum:

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I guess I should have sticker that says "No shoe-laces" on the passenger side :D But with the Ali plate covering it, there should be no safety concerns. Besides, the Winch-Bitch shouldn't be in the car while winching anyways! ;) 

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