Soren Frimodt Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 38 minutes ago, dangerous doug said: I was told by v8tuner over here hat all “stage 1” heads are on a RV8 is some of the casting marks removed and opening up the valve throats. They don’t even match the gaskets. He was saying that mod is worth 20bhp ish I understand you not wanting to take the heads off though. And it’s mandotory that you put them back on with arp head studs lol Wow 20 bhp from just that? (obviously with a supporting cam and manifolds, but still) That is a higher gain that I have ever seen on a porting job. On a ~20bhp 2 stroke LC scooter engine, back in the day, the highest difference I've seen was 1,5bhp from a COMPLETE porting/polishing job, with even the crank polished and sharpened for better flow from the ports in the cylinder. And carb polished in the venturi. And even though that is quite a gain percentage wise remember that a 2- stroke loooves revs! And subsequently flow. But on the other side the SD1 heads do have larger valves, and if the ports cast are, perhaps even on the smaller side for the small valves, there will be quite something to gain there. Haha ARP my ar$e Sure they work but I bet you that 99% of the people who fit them don't even need them. After all there's more bolts holding the head down on my tiny 3,5 than there is on a 4,6 So I'm pretty sure it will be just fine for the first 250ish bhp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 20bhp was the claim. I have nothing to support that other than “thats what Paul said” if you have a look on some open heads you will see what I mean. The step shrouds the valve quite a bit and the throat it’s self is a fair amount smaller than the valve seat. You can feel it in there i dont NEED arp studs but I wanted them because I HATE the stretch bolts lol lo-fi, I diddnt realise people were still interested in that sort of thing otherwise I would have started a thread. I still havnt ported mine yet so there may be a chance to see exactly how much difference it makes using a rolling road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 No I didn't mean to put any doubt on either you or 'Paul' I'm sure a guy from such a well known company will have done his research, I'm just very surprised! And seeing as the larger valves of the SD1 makes a difference the hole can't be too small in my weird world of logic? Yeah I'll agree with you on that, stretch bolts suck, mostly because you never feel completely sure everything worked out right when you're done tightening them. But my cheap ar$e makes me put up with them anyway! Anyway, a bit of an update today, received some parts, first up oil additive and assembly lube: Then my new fuel cell: Again (and as always it seems ) keeping with budget, no fancy Jazz fuel cell here, simple boat stuff is fine with me! 150£ all in for the tank, 90 degree neck and flush mount filler with an on/off breather. Here's how its going to sit: So just in front of, and somewhat underneath, the spare-wheel. Should hopefully work just fine.. Oh, and the capacity is 42 Litres so should just be enough for a full days worth of racing (at least the kind I do) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 4 hours ago, Soren Frimodt said: After all there's more bolts holding the head down on my tiny 3,5 than there is on a 4,6 You should leave the extra ones loose though There's a reason they're no longer on the later engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 13 minutes ago, elbekko said: You should leave the extra ones loose though There's a reason they're no longer on the later engines. What? so the liners can better slip around? Sorry couldn't help myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Are any of the Rangie panels going back on? or has JWH left it’s RRC roots behind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 No I'm afraid it has lost its former identity as a Rangie. Did, at one point, consider using the bonnet, but it would've made it too wide. Could've chopped a section out the middle through.. But decided to go for a more traditional "Challenge Defender" look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 10 hours ago, Soren Frimodt said: What? so the liners can better slip around? Sorry couldn't help myself No, so the head stops warping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 46 minutes ago, elbekko said: No, so the head stops warping Hahaa okay 😁 Figured it was something like that 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 A bit more done today, had to go shopping for some fuel line and other stuff in the middle of the day, when I had the tank fitted so I knew the lengths etc. Here it is all fitted up and connected: Wiring for the back done as well and run to the engine bay: Once the fuel tank was done I could make the covering panel to sit behind the spare-wheel and on top of the fuel tank: You may have noticed the sudden appearance of the blue V8 sign, well I had to move the filler cap and raise it a bit to get proper flow to the tank, so I ended up with an extra hole.. Well I didn't want to make a new panel so I just slapped this on there, in the best Roadkill manner Thankfully this sign actually comes from this very vehicle when I first got it, so it kinda needed to be on there anyway With the spare in place: And I just got time to fit the harness as well: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 I remember a time when I got that much done in this amount of time....oh yes then I had kids. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 (edited) im a bit concerned about the harness in the last pic... it looks to me like you've mounted the back of the drivers harness to the floor behind the seat. if you have just bear in mind the direction of force if you have a accident. in short your putting ALL the force from the accident into the back of the bucket seat rather than the harness mounting. (the seat will probably fold and your head will hit the windscreen...) you'd be much better off welding a harness bar across the back of the cage and mounting the harness to that.... (in fact im fairly sire the MSA blue book prohibits mounting the harness to anything that isn't directly behind the seat) if you havent then fair do's, its pretty hard to see from that pic....) Edited January 6, 2018 by qwakers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Agreed, harness bar would be smartest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 47 minutes ago, miketomcat said: I remember a time when I got that much done in this amount of time....oh yes then I had kids. Mike Hahaa yeah Mike, my Brother just had his first kid little over a year ago, and I can definitely see that his tinkering time has decreased a lot! But I don't really think any Father will complain, you get so much else in return 22 minutes ago, qwakers said: im a bit concerned about the harness in the last pic... it looks to me like you've mounted the back of the drivers harness to the floor behind the seat. if you have just bear in mind the direction of force if you have a accident. in short your putting ALL the force from the accident into the back of the bucket seat rather than the harness mounting. (the seat will probably fold and your head will hit the windscreen...) you'd be much better off welding a harness bar across the back of the cage and mounting the harness to that.... (in fact im fairly sire the MSA blue book prohibits mounting the harness to anything that isn't directly behind the seat) if you havent then fair do's, its pretty hard to see from that pic....) 13 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Agreed, harness bar would be smartest Easy guys It wraps around the X in the cage, just like I had in the 80" for several years. You can actually see it in the second to last pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 fair enough 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 All far too cunning for us lowlifes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 Hahaa I doubt that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Today was wiring day! Started out by deciding where to put the instrument panel, and then making it: As you can see the vital instruments are just in my POV, and the old rocker switch fitted beneath the panel is getting removed, it was just temporary Then came the Spaghetti: At this point you just cross your fingers you remembered everything and made the wires long enough Thankfully everything was okay, here's the grommet they exit from, and next to it I fitted the Solenoid for the front locker. Next to that lays two black wires, these are auxiliary from a toggle switch in the panel that I don't have any use for right now. Just thought it would be nice for the future to have the wires already terminating in the engine compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 Today I got the brakelights done, Wipac NAS Fog lights was the choice: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Still waiting on my cam to arrive I can get some other small jobs sorted.. Tonight I made a quick and dirty oil pump priming tool, took about 15 mins Then I did some paneling again. Got the two small triangles made (one for each side) And one of the big rectangular ones for the 'seatbox': Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) Finally my Piper cam arrived! And if you are anything like me, you can't stop yourself from comparing the Piper/Progress 87 cam, which is sort of a "stage1 +20bhp" deal with a stock 3,9 cam, right? And as I suspected there is no differences in profile, base diameter or lobe separation. The only difference I could measure is 0,5mm more lift on the Piper cam. Now this is nothing to be ashamed of, that will help the engine breath a lot better. But knowing what I do now, if I had to pay for a new cam, I would choose the stock 3,9. At around 1/5th the cost it really is a good bargain! Anyway got it fitted and the oil pump primed, which took forever for it to pick up the oil, but it does on these V8's that's why its so important to do: And this is how far I got before I called it a night: Edited January 11, 2018 by Soren Frimodt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deep Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Finally, one job I have done quicker than you! I cut a slot in a piece of steel (2 minutes) and chucked it in a cordless drill. Running slowly, it didn't need a guide and primed in half a minute. Seriously, though, there must be six of you doing all that work. Your work rate is quicker than I can think (which is probably my problem - too much thinking, not enough doing). Great progress. It's going to hum along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 1 minute ago, deep said: Finally, one job I have done quicker than you! I cut a slot in a piece of steel (2 minutes) and chucked it in a cordless drill. Running slowly, it didn't need a guide and primed in half a minute. Hahaa that is also how I use to do it, but seeing as I had the time I decided to make a nice little guide, I don't know if its necessary per say, but it does make it more stable when running the drill at full tilt Oh and on the thinking bit, I don't do that, I just act.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Good info on the cam - thank you! Have you checked the rockers/shafts for wear? Somewhere (I think on the RPI site) I remember reading that worn bits of cam readily get embedded in the soft rockers and wear the shafts away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 4 minutes ago, lo-fi said: Good info on the cam - thank you! Have you checked the rockers/shafts for wear? Somewhere (I think on the RPI site) I remember reading that worn bits of cam readily get embedded in the soft rockers and wear the shafts away. No I must admit I have not, I only checked the usual spots for wear (where the tip of the valvestem rides and the socket for the pushrod) Didn't know that was a problem, but sounds obvious now that you mention it. But I can still check that no problem Coming to think about it those pieces of old cam and follower can be embedded many places throughout the engine really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.