Bobbed and caged RRC called The "JWH"

[Soren Frimodt]

Anders: Thanks for the offer mate, but I'm still very,unsure as to where exactly I'm going to fit as the prop really didn't angle as,much as I had hoped. So no matter where it'll end up it looks like some heavy shielding is required. ie. Metal.

Daan its a blistering slow 33:1 so much like good old Koenig pto winches. But I've seen people hook a diff up to it, much like our Viking winch, so if I don't fancy the slow going i could always make a faster version

[Soren Frimodt]

A bit of progress on this. have been moving around the winch and measuring for quite some time now, and speculating when I went to bed, well you know the drill And finally have found the sweetspot (I hope) for the winch. At this point the prop is happy, I don't have to change the cage and the wire will pass on the inside of the passenger seat making a tube or tunnel much less annoying as you don't have to climb over it. BUT the downsides are first of all that the wire is going to pass through right where my lever for 4wd is fitted, but that can be bent and modded, but worst of all its going to have to pass through the engine bay at a point that is very constricted on space. But it should be doable without any weird rollers or sliders, I would hate to have to add those to the system.

First couple of brackets welded on, going to beefed up as soon as I have made the rear mountings as well:

I also managed to remove about 1/3 of the weight of the winch making it look a lot less monstrous:

here you can sort of see the line the wire has to take:

[Soren Frimodt]

Today a little more time was spend on this, between messing with my Brothers pesky Freebie and visiting a neighbor.

Anyways got the cradle for the rear winch mounts 99% done, still needs just a tad more bracing. And it actually was a bit comprehensive:

And with the winch lifted out for the last welding and bracing, really easy to lift up the winch so I'm quite convinced it'll all turn out good in the end.

[Soren Frimodt]

Another day, some more welding and grinding!

Started out finishing the front mounts:

Added some rust protection:

And with the winch installed for the final time I added the last bits of the cradle. Remember most of the force while winching is in a forward motion and without any extra stiffening the 'U' I had made for the back mounts only had so much strength in this direction. So a longitudinal bar connected to the rear stay along with a triangle gusset so make sure this doesn't go anywhere:

Then I refitted the handle for the drum disconnect. Might redo it in some cable form later on if I wan't to be able to operate it from the drivers seat. But this is okay for now:

And then, finally came time for the first test run! Blimey that prop moves fast in 4th gear

And finally I started the routing of the wire cable. The blue airline represents the wire:

Will have to mopunt the fairlead low enough that the wire won't rub on the bottom of the radiator. And it will rub a bit on the exhaust but I can live with that because its on the thick flange on the downpipe

[Soren Frimodt]

Brought this old beast back into the shop this morning in hopes to get a lot done! But a mate showed up just after I had got it in there, and was here until about 4pm. So didn't get anything done until then. But then i wen't all crazy! Got some tubing thrown in there, the worst holes patched up, and the passenger seat back in!:

I only had to move the seat outboard about 35mm so not bad at all. I had to notch the tube at the exhaust manifold, but it doesn't stick that far into the tube, just didn't wanna hear it rubbing up against the tube:

Should it become a huge problem I can always fit another sort of exhaust manifold and downpipe, but I doubt it'll be necessary.

And finally I moved and shortened the fairlead and trimmed the grille and headlight surround to fit around:

So tomorrow will be the long awaited wire spool-on! can't wait!

[Soren Frimodt]

Finally the wire is on, and bar a prop tunnel the install is complete. Now just looking for an excuse to go test it sometime

As you can see the wire wants to stack in the middle of the drum, I knew full well this would be the case since the tube cannot move around, this is why we mounted them on a swivel on the 'Viking Winches' However i simply do not have the room with a V8 in front. But its okay, it just limits the amount of wire I can have on there, right now its 30m's and thats plenty for what I have to use it for so should be okay. I only forced the first layer to lay correctly on the drum, then just let the rest put itself where it fell naturally.

[miketomcat]

If I remember correctly you need something like 1.2m from drum to a fixed point on the rope for it to self spool this is why The vector system on the ibex goes to the rear cross member round a pulley then free back to the drum mid mounted.

Mike

[Soren Frimodt]

yeah exactly, all depending on the width of the drum though, did consider narrowing it, but with the freespool and all it was quite a task. And couldn't have the tube any shorter then the wire would touch the passenger seat. What I could've done was fit the winch further back, but didn't really wan't that

[miketomcat]

I figured you had no choice to be honest most people only have 30m on any way as low line winches won't take any more.

Mike

[Soren Frimodt]

Yeah, come to think of it I have never had a winch with more on any of my own trucks! Because I shortened the drum on my 8274 that's all I have on that as well. And seeing as I don't compete in this thing I'm sure it'll be adequate. Now I just can't wait till I can get to testing it! My Brother and his wife recently bought a house in the country with a Marl pit with some big trees around it, think this'll make an excellent proving ground

[Soren Frimodt]

After a whole lot of trouble starting it up, including a fuelpump failing 300m from my house, and a seized clutch. I finally got this thing back into the garage to do some work. Christmas holidays being soon, I thought I'd get a headstart, have soo many projects!

Began fitting an AC compressor, fed up of having to listen to that leccy compressor and the amount of air the AC Compressor delivers is just addictive! Ideal for popping on tyres etc. So have decided to fit one to the JWH as well as the 80" which got one last year. For ease of spares I've fitted identical ones on both, from a Hyundai Galopper. Here's the "hinging" side of the mount:

And the tensioner:

[Soren Frimodt]

Continued on this until midday where I had to go North and visit a buddy of mine who's pimping out his 90":

And yes that is where the Mog90 axles have wound up, he needed a bit of help with the tubing

But before that I got the install of the compressor itself finished up, used some ally tubing from a Caravan fridge for the first part of the airline from the compressor, necessary because of the heat that the compressor makes. And got the last bracketry done:

And with a bit of trimming the fan went back on as well:

And I also just fitted the airtank. But that will be finished up tomorrow, so no pictures of that until then

[Soren Frimodt]

Solenoid for front locker and all hardlines and electrics hooked up:

And the starter went from bad to worse during the weekend, took it off and to my surprise I think I know why the clutch is seized!:

Yes there was standing water inside the bellhousing all the way up to the starter! So spend the rest of the day un-seizing the clutch and draining/cleaning the bellhousing

[Bowie69]

That starter was working...?

[Soren Frimodt]

Yep! Though it had no power, it could only barely spin the engine onne of the,brushes is broken so that it is as sharp as a knife where it rides,on the commutator and one,of the magnets in the housing is split and bits of it is everywhere in the gooy mix

[Soren Frimodt]

Soo.. I'm firmly convinced that I am the unbeaten champ of getting sick in my holidays/weekends, and of course these Christmas holidays should prove no different..

Thankfully though it is "just a cold" So not nearly as bad as two years ago when I had a terrible flu and ended up loosing 4kgs over the Christmas/New Year holidays!

Anyways laying in my bed I get restless and just wan't to do something useful, but yesterday all I could muster was to do a bit of painting, had decided to brush the AC bracketry that I had made and once that was done I still had bit left in me so painted the dash thingy, steering column and all the gearlevers. Now obviously the whole car needs a makeover, but at least I got the satisfaction of doing something with my hands!

Today I fell slightly better, still can't smell or taste anything though, so more than likely I won't be able to taste my Grand Mothers superb duck and sweet potatoes tonight. But atleast I could do a little more in the workshop so drilled out a 5mm bolt and screwed it onto the locker solenoid and ran a piece of 5mm plastic tube to the steering wheel:

Now it is not the big 'PSSSST' from when I flip the switch to disengage the locker I need to hear that well, no its the much smaller and shorter 'psst' from when the locker actually disengages that I need to hear. Not only is it vital for knowing when you have full steering lock again, its a key ingredient for making stock CV's last, knowing exactly when it is safe to turn or reverse or both.

[Soren Frimodt]

Decided I was sick of being sick! So got quite a bit done today.

Made a tunnel for the prop that drives the winch, its made out of 2mm steelplate, which of course is quite heavy, have some 1mm ally sheet I could've used but there are two main reasons why I choose this material; first and foremost safety, had I made it in ally I would've had to make some sort of strap or loop that was HD enough to hold up in the event the prop would fall off at either end, having it just behind your seat is somewhat nerve-wrecking at full speed in 4th. So using 2mm steel seemed semsible. Then secondly it's best if it can withstand a bit of a beating as in people running around on it or throwing things at it. And as a bonus it quite good for mounting things too as well which most likely will prove nice at some point

As you can see I made the top removable, though I have sealed it in. Its not something that'll have to com off very often, but should I need to remove the prop for servicing it can be done. The prop is removable from the underside at the gearbox end so not a problem.

I decided to make it level and just let the prop protrude the last bit, its far enough back to not be unsafe and I like to be able to remove the winch easily.

Ohh and I also changed a bad engine mount

[elbekko]

Decided I was sick of being sick!

[Soren Frimodt]

haha

[Soren Frimodt]

Time for an afternoon update.

Threw some paint on the tunnel:

And decided to make some covers for the rear part of the door holes. It was quite annoying with that big hole because when dirt was rubbing along the side, for instance when turning around a pile of sand, it would fall in behind the seats as soon as it reached the rearmost door pillar. This was hopefully it'll fend off so I don't have to shovel out sand and dirt everyday when wheeling.

Also I fitted it only halfway out so that there is still a small edge to stand on when I need someone to counter-balance by hanging on the sides

[Soren Frimodt]

aand the last update for today (won't be any tomorrow either, have some family to attend to

Since I swapped in the Salisbury rear it has been running the stock old drumbrakes. These are useless in mud as we all know and they badly needed some new shoes and cylinders. I didn't wan't to change those thing when i swapped the axle because I knew it would just be a matter of time before something had to happen.

I have long been contemplating fitting a disc between the prop and flange at the diff, seeing as the axle is permanently locked. But I think it will have quite a hard life there..

Then I thought to myself, how bad can it really be to brake trough the propshaft? My Jag does it so does a lot of other vehicles. Anyways it is super easy to try I just loosened the rear brake-line at the hose that goes to the axle, ran it backwards and diagonally till I had it at my handbrake mastercylinder and plumbed it in instead of the fluid container, easy job! Just like people do cutting brakes.

Now the only thing that is still in the unknown is how it all behaves as the rearbrakes now have a gearing through the diff before they meet the wheels, and the front brakes don't, but I'll find out as soon as I try it on the local dirt road

This then meant that I was able to remove all the old drumbrake shenanigans on the rear axle:

Cleaning should be a lot easier:

Anyone care to take a guess at how much weight I have removed from the rear axle? I was very surprised myself!

[Blanco]

Pure guess, without anything here to check against..... could be 12kg a side? say 24kg??

[Soren Frimodt]

A very good guess indeed! 25kgs total so not much off that is quite heavy for a simple braking system

[Bowie69]

Now the only thing that is still in the unknown is how it all behaves as the rearbrakes now have a gearing through the diff before they meet the wheels, and the front brakes don't, but I'll find out as soon as I try it on the local dirt road

With the centre diff locked, this will be acting on all 4 wheels

[Soren Frimodt]

Yeah, but still that disc will be turning much faster than those at the front wheel. But perhaps all it equates to is it getting hotter? When I did the hydraulic handbrake I tried braking the car in 4wd and it worked quite well, far from locking up all four wheels, but that would be too much to expect from a single disc brake with no booster and only the power of one arm