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300TDI - Lashings of fluid from the exhaust manifold...?


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Hi All,

Here's a good one which is driving me and all the technical people I know nuts...

The "new" engine on Daisy has got a "gappy" manifold, there is a gap here:

post-25707-0-65645900-1378889283_thumb.jpg

Not a problem a little exhaust compound and it's sealed.

The problem started a few months ago, there was a bit fluid coming out of this gap, washing the compound away, I thought it was coolant.

It only happens after an 8+ mile run, then it's allowed to sit overnight.

Then one day I created a massive white smoke cloud. Opened the bonnet and it was pouring out of the gap.

So I had the head gasket changed.

Still leaking fluid and occasionally blowing white smoke out of the back, I showed the guys working on her the problem and they thought it was diesel.

They noticed that number one injector was wet when the gasket was changed, so the thought went, it must be leaking, welling up then un-burnt fuel is getting pushed into the exhaust manifold.

No luck, it was still smoking and leaking.

So all the injectors were changed, still no luck.

Anyone seen this before, does anyone know what it is?

Cheers,

Mike

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Presumably theres two seperate issues here?

One is your manifold is leaking.

The other is the engines randomly producing white smoke and some sort of liquid?

The fix for the manifold would surely be to simply replace it, or weld up the gap if you can get the weld to take on the cast iron.

The smoke can then simply be looked at like any normal smoking issue.

White smoke can be unburnt diesel, or it can be steam. What does it smell like?

Have you tried to catch some of the liquid and sample it?

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I'm not worried about the manifold, the exhaust paste worked fine until it was washed away...

I don't know, what the smoke smells like. What does diesel smoke smell like? (I know coolant normally smells sweet).

How can you sample the liquid?

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I suspect it's diesel, it felt like diesel to the touch and the cloud looked like this:

220px-T-62_smokescreen.JPEG

Lets face it, if it's coolant then its a cracked head, and there weren't any obvious cracks...

If it is diesel what could be causing it?

As I said we've changed all of the injectors with known good ones, is there a way to adjust the amount of fuel pumped through the injectors or is there a valve or something that is allowing fuel to slip by? When you turn off the engine, I assume it starves the engine of diesel given there is no spark, could this be leaking?

I should have mentioned it's an Ex-MOD engine, did they experiment with making Defenders put up smoke screens (joke).

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i think so; you need a flywheel locking pin, then with the flywheel locked at TDC you remove the wee access cover at the pump pulley and try to insert a pin (9.5mm drill works) into the slot on the pump.

You may find for instance that the woodruff key on the crank pulley has worn out and is allowing the timing to change?

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When checking the timing Mike you can as Aragorn suggests just use the flywheel locking pin and a 9.5mm pin through the FIP pulley, you don't need to remove the timing chest cover to do that, just the inspection plate that is in front of the FIP pulley.

However that won't tell you if the camshaft pulley is one tooth out, you do have to remove the timing chest cover to do that, there is a dot on the camshaft pulley that should line up with an arrow inside the timing chest when the flywheel locking pin is in and the FIP 9.5mm pin is in.

One more however though ....... if it is a timing problem wouldn't it show up consistently?

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One more however though ....... if it is a timing problem wouldn't it show up consistently?

Hmmm, doesn't it depend where the piston parks. As I understand it, there are 3 positions.

The daft thing is, it runs really well, pulls easily and cruises at 70. Starting is no problem even after the cylinder is (apparently) full.

Its only the smoke and leak that makes me question anything...

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After your 8+ mile run, loosen to coolant filler to bleed the pressure off, then see if it's any better in the mornings.

If it is, get the head pressure tested. I reckon you'll find a crack from the coolant jacket to the #1 intake valve port.

Mine was way down inside the port, and not visible once the pressure was released, but it could drop enough coolant on the back of the valve to cause hydraulic lock when cranking.

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After your 8+ mile run, loosen to coolant filler to bleed the pressure off, then see if it's any better in the mornings.

If it is, get the head pressure tested. I reckon you'll find a crack from the coolant jacket to the #1 intake valve port.

Mine was way down inside the port, and not visible once the pressure was released, but it could drop enough coolant on the back of the valve to cause hydraulic lock when cranking.

It doesn't ever have a problem cranking,,, ever, if it did we'd definatly do that.

That's almost the issue, it's not presenting itself as a "normal" problem.

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has it started all of a sudden, ie after a fuel up, thinking contaminated fuel? If it was coolant , wouldn't it be bit milky looking. Have you checked the oil level? not burning its own oil via breather system, or sump filling up with deisel. If its a replaccement lump, as opposed to recon, if it had been run on Soya oil the rings might have gummed up

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