Retroanaconda Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Why not extend the roof on one side to over hand by a couple of foot? That way you can store Ploppy Plop Plops against the side of the shed and the roof will keep the heavy rain off....... although the cost might not be worth it as you'd still need a tarp for blown rain There are plans afoot for a small lean-to, partly as a wood shed and partly for storage of said parts. But that can wait! Use it TBF they don't tend to rust if you are using it and it gets oil and other rubbish on it ..... only tend to rust where you heat it directly. Or at least mine has in the 15 years it's been in my shed. The black scale on it when you get it gives some limited protection to. Sounds logical! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Well the option could be to make it on castors, but have a way of bolting it down in a couple of places for beating the sh!t out of something with the good old BFH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 I've seen the steel plate on top method before and it intrigued me. Especially useful for welding apparently as you can attach it to the welder earth and then placing items on the surface effectively grounds them, if I recall correctly? How do you keep it from rusting? Unless you don't bother with the welding thing and have painted it? Yup, I even welded a tab to the right hand side especially to take the earth clamp Means the whole bench, and the vice is then earthed, great for holding components and sticking them together. It doesn't really rust to be fair, except when you spill brake cleaner on it, but then a quick wipe with gear oil and it's back to it's lovely patinated self again One thing, I put a return on the front edge of the sheet (well local engineering firm did) which means the front of the bench is also steel, gives a less-sharp edge, but also useful for beating stuff against occasionally. Paint chips and gets lodged in critical components, I wouldn't want it on my bench personally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 I've seen the steel plate on top method before and it intrigued me. Especially useful for welding apparently as you can attach it to the welder earth and then placing items on the surface effectively grounds them, if I recall correctly? How do you keep it from rusting? Unless you don't bother with the welding thing and have painted it? James, I've got my topped off with a 3/8" thick piece of aluminium checker plate thats been on it for at least 10 years and it's never given me any trouble at all-that came from a scrapyard somewhere. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Cheers chaps. I will see about arranging that once I move onto fitting out the interior. Today I changed the slave cylinder on the 90 (hateful job), and this afternoon I found one of the most useful websites I've ever come across! http://www.blocklayer.com/roof/Rafter.aspx I spent ages with bits of paper working it all out and was using a web calculator to do Pythagorean theory when I suddenly thought I'd best check there wasn't some clever calculator that could do it all for me! Obviously this being 2013 there was, and so this has given me the below as my rafter plan: Based on 2" x 4" rafters (45x95mm). There will be a cross-tie sandwich comprising of two pieces of 1" x 4" about a third of the way up to brace the assembly. Also gives an extra foot or so of headroom for jacking up cars etc. And obviously there will be a vertical piece from the apex down to the cross-tie. Hopefully I can pick up some timber during the week and if the weather's good next weekend start knocking up some roof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 I'm sure it's ok, but when you jack the Landy up have you got the height? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Yep. It's 7' 3" to the tops of the walls, and then the cross-ties of the roof will be another 11" or so above that, giving a headroom of about 8' 2" or just under 2.5 metres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 I don't know about where you are but here you need planning if it occupies more than half your garden or is above 2.5m tall. 8'2 ish. Only an issue if you have neighbours likely to complain... So mine will be under 2.5m then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 I have a neighbour in the farmhouse at the other side of the farm yard, other than that the next house is a couple of miles away at least! I think I'm within planning regs anyway, at least I think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big.Mike Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/permission/commonprojects/outbuildings/miniguide You'll be fine, see the link above! You can go huge if you're away from the border! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 I think your link only covers England and Wales Mike, the Scottish government in their desire to be different have separate planning rules since devolution. Much of it is similar, and the rules of permitted development are much the same. From what I can gather mine should be fine here, though interestingly if I were building it in England it might not be as it's probably just within 2m of the boundary and over 2.5m tall at its highest point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 IIRC someone on here had a very clever "fold down" work bench system hinged onto each side wall. a few lengths of fold down bench on each side, seperate so if you want a section you dont have to have the whole side folded down, could be really handy for light duty bench work and temporary parts storage while you work on a vehicle. a heavy bench along the far wall would be good for the proper work. p.s. my workshop was spacious until i got a ramp, now its way too small Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Out of interest Mikey, How long/wide is the footprint of your ramp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 [sigh] a ramp !! [/sigh] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kierran.M.110 Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 oh i wish i had a ramp, reading this thread i have considered myself lucky as mine is only just high enough to get my 110 in, but floor space isnt an issue. I would definetely vote in favour of a fixed heavy duty work bench on the far wall, a must in any garage where a landrover is concered for beating on siezed parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Out of interest Mikey, How long/wide is the footprint of your ramp? As Ramps go, its actually quite narrow, the outside edges of the bed are inline with the outside edges of the tyres on a D4, The posts are what make it seem to fill the space as they are maybe 12-18" further out than the bed and to get round to one side i have to hold the post and swing round it. once in there its fine. my bench runs along the length next to the ramp so if i moved that it would fitt better but i have no other space for my bench really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 It depends what you want to do with the ramp but a friend of mine picked up a 2.5 tonne lift with an electric hydraulic power pack that is portable for £500. It can lift off a chassis or with out riggers like a 2 post and lifts to about waist height. You'd struggle to do a lot of work underneath but you could lift a fwd off the front sub frame or work on brakes at a sensible height and store against a wall (if someone helped you lift it) or under a car or wheel outside if you needed to lift higher than your roof allowed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 This doesn't look very safe to work under ? http://bit.ly/1bavJ63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 There's a firm that make hobbyist car lifts using hi-lift jacks ..... looks painful to use http://www.hamercarlift.org/ I like the seat for rolling around underneath in comfort .... Also you can apparently pack it away after use ...... no doubt once you are fed up taking half an hour to raise a car to waist height Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Just when you thought a hi-lift couldn't get any more dangerous... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 And £1600 inc VAT, you can get new 2-post for that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 And £1600 inc VAT, you can get new 2-post for that... I was just scrolling down to make that very point ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 I came across them online yesterday and I was struggling to find any positive point to them. The only thing I can think of is if you were somewhere without power .... but then of course you couldn't use any electric tools either. He does export to America though, so maybe all his customers are Amish and use them to service their carts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 His is more this sort 261300422637. It has mechanical catches to stop it dropping. The one post above can be bought as two or four to lift a vehicle which are handy as they're not fixed but the price goes up accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Anyhoo, picked up required timber for building the roof framing this afternoon. Must get myself a decent trailer at some point, the poor car gets a bit wallowy in the corners on the way home when the roof is full of wood. Also splashed out and got myself a semi-decent mitre saw, which should help me get the angles more accurate for the rafters. It will also be very useful when it comes to cladding the walls as I don't fancy cutting all the pieces to length by hand! I'm away for a little while from next week so I would like to get it reasonably water-tight this weekend if possible. If I can get the framing done tomorrow in theory it should be possible to get the purlins and roof deck installed on Sunday. I've got hold of a breathable membrane to go over the deck which will keep the worst of any rain out until the roof sheets go on. Some figures so far for anyone interested in the budgeting: Timber: £400.88 Waterproofing/Membranes: £76.58 Hardware/Fixings: £56.70 Misc: £18.04 Total: £552.20 There's a fair bit to go yet, roof decking and purlins, the roof sheeting itself, wall cladding, the doors, guttering, more hardware etc. but I think I'm doing alright so far. If it stays below £1k I'll be very happy, though I suspect it will end up over once more stuff like the internal work goes on. That can, to an extent, be done at my leisure once the building shell is complete and weatherproof though. I could probably be doing it cheaper, had I been building this in Sussex I would be able to as I would have had the luxury of better local connections/knowledge to get hold of cheaper materials - or even mill bits myself where I was working at the time. Having only moved to this area relatively recently I don't have that built up network of suppliers/people so am having to buy it all off the shelf, however this does bring an element of convenience it has to be said (as an aside, buying timber today I noticed it was emblazoned with the name of one of my customers at work - annoying to think it could have come from one of my harvesting sites!). I am also building the shed fairly heavy duty, thinking about it now perhaps slightly too heavy, but I figure this is better than building it too flimsy and since this is my first shed it's a case of better safe than sorry I think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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