GW8IZR Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 If you are fastening a line close to the edge of the slab I'd use resin anchors. HTH Regards Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Cheers Paul. Resin anchors were my first plan. I was then speaking with a friend of mine in the building/construction trade and he recommended the Thunderbolts to me - he is using these for pretty much all fixings into masonry now rather than shield or resin anchors. They appealed to me because of their simplicity - just drill a 10mm hole through the timber, then an 8mm hole into the concrete, blow the dust out, and wind them in - plus they exert minimal expansion forces so are suitable for close-to-edge fixing like resin anchors are. My only concern was their pull-out resistance in the particular concrete I have here - but I have tested that as above and am happy with the strength. I am fairly sure that with 13 of these holding it down if it blows away again the slab will have gone with it! I've just been out and put 10 of the bolts in through the bottom plates into the slab with some nice big washers, unfortunately during this process it has started tipping it down so that's play rained off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 We have the 12mm version of these holding a 130'x60'x30' temporary hanger down 4 at 10' intervals. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Good to know Mike. With luck they will do my small shed fine then! Today was reasonably productive, got the OSB sheets squared off roughly to where the fascia boards will go, then set about dressing the roof with the vapour membrane stuff. This will also provide a degree of waterproofing between now and when I can get hold of the roofing sheets themselves and get them fitted on (hopefully within the month). Then I started the task I've been putting off for ever, the re-cladding. Decided to start on the front wall, then I will do the one with the door/windows and work around. I had also better see to designing and building some doors for the main vehicle opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 It looked like your fixing was closer than 60mm which I think is a bit close for unifix t-bolts But I'm biased cos I keep shed loads of resin anchors in hand :-) You know what they say, to a man with a hammer every job looks like a nail...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 The datasheet I have gives 60mm as the 'normal edge distance', mine are probably about 50mm from the edge of the slab which gives a 0.93 reduction factor. Apply that to the safe working load for 8mm bolts at 60mm embedment depth (mine are actually deeper) and it gives a SWL of about 570kg-f per bolt. 13 bolts in all so plenty of strength I think as the loading will be spread over at least a few of the fixings depending on the wind direction. What I may do is put some L-brackets at choice locations that pick up on the wall studs themselves (as opposed to the floor plate they are nailed to) and use resin fixings to attach those to the slab - the L of the bracket will space these further in from the edge probably another 50mm or so. Belt and braces as they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 The only expansion seems to be the depth of the screw pitch which is small, there is no taper so should be good. I don't reckon strength is the concern but the chance to split off a flake of concrete- bit like creating a perforated edge on your plinth. If the concrete is strong and was vibrated it will be fine but if you can get away from the edge for every other fixing it might be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 if i were you id be tempted to put a set of temporary crossbraces across the main arpeture until you fit the door just incase as you dont want a case of de-ja-vu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 if i were you id be tempted to put a set of temporary crossbraces across the main arpeture until you fit the door just incase as you dont want a case of de-ja-vu Yes Mikey, I too have a similar worry! It is for that reason that I haven't sealed the back of the building yet with either plastic sheeting or cladding, any wind going in the door can go out the back again without stressing the structure. The doors will be on or at least the front aperture blocked as you suggest before the back of the building is sealed up again. So today was a day of cladding, managed to get the side wall done which of course involved all the fiddly cutting around the door and windows now that they've been added. Still, all done so just the two walls to go now. Tomorrow's weather looks pretty poor so might look into knocking up a set of doors for the front opening or at least the frames for them instead of working on the outside of the building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 James, looking good. Glad to see its gone up fairly quickly. How do you think you'll finish the corners? When I did my cladding on the garage, I used a piece of 50mm x 50mm timber to seal the corner. I fixed this through to the battens I fixed the cladding on to. Apologies if you know this, but when you build your doors make sure diagonal bracing goes in correct, ie low end is on hinge side, high end at door centre. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Hi Chris, I will seal the corners by cladding over them either using some corner section if I can get some or if not then two flat cladding pieces. This will keep the weather out and also allows a small amount of flexibility in lining up all the edges which is handy as I'm now effectively using "reclaimed" cladding Yep noted re. doors! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 I've just made my corner pieces tonight, I took a bit of stock, put a rad on 3 if the corners then chopped the other corner out to make an unequal angle. I did the capping for the straight panels in the same way but just cut them flat. The windows were the same too but I cut everything at 10 degrees for a bit of run off plus it creates the drip off point underneath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Nice work Al. I don't have access to that kind of kit (i.e. routers) but it's an idea in the pot. Today I started building the door frames. It's my first attempt at actual joinery, so I'm fairly pleased with the results. The doors are fairly standard design, ledged and braced. Mortice and tenon joints for the joints between the rails and the stiles. Tenon on one end of the top rail, shouldered as it's right up against the top of the stile: Door frame laid out: And with braces: I'll get the other one done tomorrow hopefully and get some cladding on them and of I'm lucky I might even get them hung 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Looking good there James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Brilliant job ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 I've just made my corner pieces tonight, I took a bit of stock, put a rad on 3 if the corners then chopped the other corner out to make an unequal angle. I did the capping for the straight panels in the same way but just cut them flat. The windows were the same too but I cut everything at 10 degrees for a bit of run off plus it creates the drip off point underneath Judging by cleanliness of hands, far too much time doing woodwork :-) Project looking very good now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Or paperwork Doors look good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 One... ...and two! A few more bits to sort with them, like the weather sealing around the edges and adding a third hinge, fitting bolts to the hinges etc. etc. but I'm pleased with how solid they are. I can pull down on the edge of the door hard and there's no distortion of the frame. But now the building should be fairly resistant to wind (I hope!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Well done James. What a milestone ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Looks really Good James Something very satisfying about making your own doors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Looks really Good James Something very satisfying about making your own doors Indeed, I quite enjoyed it actually! Took a long time getting all the joints right but worth it I think. I hope to get the roofing sheets ordered this week as there's a bit of a lead time on those, which gives me time to get the cladding finished so that the fascia & barge boards can go on - which are a prerequisite for the roofing sheets of course. I will need some more cladding to replace the damaged stuff and what I used for the doors, but I won't know how much until I use up all the remaining good stuff - which I plan to do on the back wall so the resulting less tidy board pattern generated through using uneven lengths will be hidden away by the hedge. If the weather plays ball two or three weeks should see the building shell pretty much complete and I can start moving stuff up from Sussex, which I am very keen to do as every month I don't it costs me rent on that building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 James, Doors look great. Must say don't wait too long to get the third hinge on as it will make all the difference to the longevity of the doors. Also i would've of been tempted to run longer hinges for the same reason. Any reason for not running the cladding horizontal, was it just that the vertical looked better or some other reason? But anyway they look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Third hinge will go on shortly, I got the biggest ones they had when I picked them up - if I find bigger ones I might change them. Will see. Cladding was done this way to match the other shed, plus it seems to be the done thing from other clad buildings I've seen. Looks nice too I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Looks great James! I'd be buying the biggest hinges, will help when the doors inevitably get caught by the wind some day. I like the door cladding at 90Deg, makes it a bit of a feature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 ... Plus it saves having to line the boards up on either side panel and the door You'd think water would leak in but it never seems to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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