Retroanaconda Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 Productive day today! Knocked up a single truss with temporary bracing to fit to the walls and see if what I had planned was going to work. I was incredibly relieved when it slotted nicely over the wall plates! So then I just repeated it three more times, and then made two for the ends with just a single upright in since there's a handy wall beneath to support it and provide rigidity. I may put a couple of upright pieces of studding in to make it easier to clad up, will see when I get to that stage. Trusses are skew-nailed to the tops of the walls, and there are truss clips as well for backup. They were also quite useful for stopping the things falling over as I was hauling them up there. Tomorrow I will put the purlins and OSB on, and cover that with the breathable membrane stuff. Hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 Lovely job, really coming along quickly now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 Do you think the end truss over the door would benefit from a cross brace as there isn't much wall underneath the upright? Or will the end cladding do that job James? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I thought the same as wabbit, but great job. Brilliant. Lovely spot too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 Cheers guys. Looking at it, yes it probably would do. However I have no timber of that size left. I can get more, but how about if uprights were installed in line with the door pillars? That would reduce the span of roof which would be transferring any load to the lintel piece above the doorway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 Aside from the weight bearing I just thought that you may want the doors to shut against, and bolt to?, a fairly robust piece of timber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 The cross piece above the doors (lintel if you will) is proper C16 stuff same as the rafters, rather than the slightly less sturdy studding I used for the walls. The doors will have bolts up into that and down into the concrete. It is a fair span (8 feet), but I think that with support as far as the door pillars it will be OK. No doubt I will see a decent snow load up here given the elevation and exposure of this place, so that will be a good test. If I can't open the doors then it's dropped! There's also this option, what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I think I'd just go with the same style as you've done with the intermediate trusses. They'll all be as strong as each other then As you say though if the snow causes it to sag you'll have an early warning because you can't open the doors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 it sweats like hell especially with a gas heater inside, but even with just the ambient temperature difference there is moisture on the underside. Do NOT have any form of LPG gas heater in your shed or garage as it produces the same volume of water as the gas you are using, so there will be massive condensation problems and rusty tools etc. It needs a large amount of ventilation which defeats the object somewhat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomcat404 Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 looks a great build brilliant...... not wanting to hi jack this thread but have you considered what lighting you are going to use? I am just about to install some lighting and im not sure what to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 it sweats like hell especially with a gas heater inside, but even with just the ambient temperature difference there is moisture on the underside. Do NOT have any form of LPG gas heater in your shed or garage as it produces the same volume of water as the gas you are using, so there will be massive condensation problems and rusty tools etc. It needs a large amount of ventilation which defeats the object somewhat This makes me wonder how diesel fired space heaters compare on the condensation front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 I have an LPG heater in my current garage down in Sussex, can't say I've ever noticed big condensation problems attributable to that. But then I didn't use it very often. looks a great build brilliant...... not wanting to hi jack this thread but have you considered what lighting you are going to use? I am just about to install some lighting and im not sure what to use? It'll just be normal T8 strip lights. Not sure whether I'll put them on the truss cross-ties or higher in the roof yet. The latter appeals as it would offer them some protection, although there's the potential for shadows being cast by the lower parts of the roof structure. I guess one gets around that by having lots of lights. Anyway, today I had another productive day. Got all the purlins on and the OSB sheets on top of those. Ran out of time to put the membrane stuff over the top, so that will have to wait. Unfortunately it'll be two weeks until I get another shot at it as I'm away next week with work and down south the weekend after. Managed to tread on a nail as well while tidying up the green sheeting, f***king ow! Luckily didn't go deep as I didn't put any weight on it, but still bled. Will teach me not to wear trainers! Looks like I'll be getting a tetanus shot in a couple of weeks End of play today, hopefully the Scottish weather will be kind to it while I'm away and I'll come back to find it still here and not a mile down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 Surprising how parking something inside a building can make said building look a whole lot smaller Still, it'll be great to come out into the Scottish winter snow, and drive off in a clean and dry Landy... oh that'll be after you've dug the drifts away from the doors, Is now a good time to suggest sliding doors??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 Looks good If you do have problems with the roof sagging an easy remedial solution to increase stiffness is to bond timber sheet (OSB or ply or whatever) to either side of the truss. The downside is you lose potential storage and it can cause lighting problems. In the bad winter a few years ago the upstairs doors in my house went tight under the weight of the snow, that'll teach me to upgrade the insulation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 Cheers, that's not a bad backup plan should things go awry! Still, it'll be great to come out into the Scottish winter snow, and drive off in a clean and dry Landy... oh that'll be after you've dug the drifts away from the doors, Is now a good time to suggest sliding doors??? Alas Mickey I will still have one fewer sheds than cars, so one of them will have to brave the winters! My plan is to build the 110 in the shed, and then the 90 can live in there once the 110 is back in use as my main car. Sliding doors I've not thought about. How much is involved in fabricating the runners etc? Is it fairly simple to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 You could knock the runners up quite simply, however securing them is another matter. You have to make sure that some dodgy buggers can't just lift them off the runners. I'd stick with hinged doors and keep a shovel in the house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 Fair point. Not sure how bad the snow is going to be to be honest. I'm on a high spot but it's still the lowlands, only 700feet or so, so nothing compared to further north. I'm sure we will get some anyway, I look forward to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 On the conservatory and greenhouse I nail some bits of wood together in a tee shape and drag the snow off the roof, my father in law does a lot of insurance work on doors, windows, conservatories and greenhouses and gets a lot of winter work due to snow on the roof so I'm paranoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 So it's raining, hard. It rained yesterday too. And the day before that, and the whole weekend before that... you get the picture. The rivers are swollen, my work sites in the forest are turning in to quagmires, and most importantly my new shed is sitting getting very wet! This weekend I will crack on. Got to finish battening the wall plastic stuff properly to stop it blowing away every five minutes, then I need to fit the fascia boards round the edge of the roof in order that the OSB sheets will be fully supported and that I can put the housewrap type stuff over the top of them. Unfortunately to fit the fascia boards I will have to do the wall cladding first as them being in position would mean the top boards couldn't be nailed up properly. So that's got to go on. Either that or I fit a few boards from the top, but then I'd have to clad from the top down which seems wrong to me? Bit of a rush to get it weather-tight really, autumn is making its presence felt and winter will not be far behind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 James, Fitting a few boards from the top will mean you have a problem to solve as you clad up from the bottom...as you want the cladding to overlay the one below. An option is to screw the top couple of rows of cladding and then fit fascia/soffits. You then unscrew and refit after cladding from the bottom up. However this depends on how your fascia fits to your roof...would need another look at the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 A pic to illustrate the problem: As you can see if I fit the fascia board (apologies if that is incorrect terminology) first it means fixing the top cladding boards will be all but impossible as they'll be tucked up behind the fascia. One solution would be to temporarily support the ends of the roof sheeting with some bits of wood screwed to the ends of the trusses. This would then enable me to get the roof fully dressed up before worrying too much about the walls (which owing to the plastic sheeting are fairly waterproof as they are). Or I add another set of purlins under the end of the OSB to support the sheets and then I can add the fascia at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 I would personally have another batten supporting the end of the sheet, otherwise if you need to replace the fascia boards at some point you won't be able to remove it without the OSB dropping. Then fit the fascia after the wall boarding is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 I would agree with Bowie. Use another batten to support the end of the OSB. Then clad the building and then place the fascia up afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Good shout chaps. I have some left over so will go down that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 James, Just some constructive comments... having another look at your pics, it seems that the OSB seems to come a long way out over the ends of the rafters. This means that you may have to cut some off the OSB so that it doesn't break under heavy weather. if the rafters had run a bit further out then it would of allowed you to put the fascia on and then do the cladding afterwards. other option is to extend the rafters out to get some more support under the edge? You did mention it earlier i believe that you planned a lean too? however, it does look impressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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