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Salisbury Differential Re-build Questions


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Hello everyone this is my first post over here.

I'm in the process of re-building a '92 110 csw which has a Salisbury drum braked rear axle. Just finished cleaning up the axle casing and getting ready to re-build post-69966-0-64369100-1381092838_thumb.jpg

When I picked the truck up the rear diff was out of the casting, judging from the destroyed outer pinion bearing I assume it was apart for a rebuild that never got finished.post-69966-0-27409900-1381092692_thumb.jpg

Unfortunately while it was out sitting the pinion and ring acquired some rust on them. I’m hoping with a little bit of clean up they will be re-usable since they aren’t plentiful in Canada. I have attached pictures what do you think?

post-69966-0-19816000-1381092612_thumb.jpg post-69966-0-06069200-1381092650_thumb.jpg post-69966-0-08543500-1381092671_thumb.jpg

Also since I was not the one to take this apart, I want to confirm the order that parts sit, specifically around the pinion. Which ones should I be replacing?

This is what I have gathered from looking at diagrams but want to confirm.

  1. Inner pinion bearing (will replace)
  2. 2x shims that sit between the inner pinion bearing and the casting
  3. Collapsible spacer (should it be replaced?)
  4. Outer pinion bearing (will replace)
  5. Washer
  6. Oil seal ( I think mine must have been a leather one but hard to tell since the leather is gone)
  7. Gasket
  8. Flange (possibly replace)
  9. Washer
  10. Locknut
  11. I also have some rubber boot thingy that was in with the diff parts is this part of it?

Does this seem right? Can I upgrade the seal to the newer none leather version?

Thanks in advance!

Will

post-69966-0-44364700-1381092722_thumb.jpg

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If you can get the bearings and pinion seal relatively cheaply, then it's worth a try.I'd use the wire brush on a Dremmel or similar to try to clean off as much of that rust as possible before rebuilding it, as otherwise you'll contaminate the oil really quickly. A few small pits might not make much difference, but if the teeth are badly pitted, it'll not last very long. You'll be able to get a new ring and pinion from KAM Diffs or Ashcroft Transmissions.

Use the original shims in their original positions. The new bearings, as long as they're good quality and ideally Timken, should have accurate enough tolerances to those removed to allow everything to fit straight back in without adjustment.

Don't replace the crush tube, just re-use it and tighten the main nut to about 150'lbs; that'll make the nut nice and tight without further squeezing the tube and increasing bearing preload (a new tube starts crushing at about 250'lbs and needs more and more to keep shortening). That goes for whether you use a new flange or not - the thickness of the flange has no influence on the bearings, just the nut torque. I have done this myself with good results.

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I also have some rubber boot thingy that was in with the diff parts is this part of it?

If the rubber boot thingy is the thing in the bottom right of your picture I would say it is one of the grommets that hold the demister hose to the top of the heater duct (but I might be talking rubbish)

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I also have some rubber boot thingy that was in with the diff parts is this part of it?

If the rubber boot thingy is the thing in the bottom right of your picture I would say it is one of the grommets that hold the demister hose to the top of the heater duct (but I might be talking rubbish)

Well spotted. i would agree with 6pot on that. have a look at the rubber bit and see if it has a groove around the outside of the larger end ?

IMO that crown wheel and pinion will be fine. Drop them in a bath of diesel fuel or paraffin (you call it kerosene over there ???) for a couple of days or more, and clean them up with some fine Scotchbrite or your wifes toothbrush (not your own obviously) as best you can and assemble with new bearings and run it. then change the oil a couple of times for good measure. I am certain it will be fine.

The Salisbury differential is tough as old boots and very robust.

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