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EGT Gauge / Multi-gauge for TD5


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I've been after an EGT for my trusty daily commuter (TD5 Xtreme) I've been looking for a while and the closest I've been able to find with a white needle has been the Stack ST3313 post-40837-0-00589700-1381405291_thumb.jpg or the pro version is tempting the stack ST3513 post-40837-0-72674100-1381405306_thumb.jpg. (I can live with the tripple stack wording being on the gauge)

I have also been considering a boost and tacho - but I don't like the extra pods sitting on top of dash and I know I could raise the radio and put guages just under radio in the centre console etc, but I stumbled across this today - has anyone looked at / tried one of these??? will they connect OK to TD5 underseat ECU tacho connection etc?

PLX DM-6 Multi Gauge with Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Module SM-EGT

I guess I'm prepared to compromise and use one of these for the additional functionality even though its totally obviously non-standard... it can also replace clock in dash cluster - also I can easily remove it and replace the clock if / when I upgrade to newer TD5...

any thoughts / recommendations / warnings?

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stumbled across a manualfor the DM6 - http://www.plxdevices.com/support/manuals/DM-6UsersGuide.pdf

any of you smart fellas able to provide any guidance?

on second look, it looks to me to be more like a basic EMS rather than a multi-gauge persay, but then my primary justification is to prevent exhaust manifold warping again, and I guess this will give me more than that - a bonus even :unsure: .don't know if would be as readible as a Stack gauge or as configurable as a Madman

Maybe I should just bite the bullet and go for a Madman - I know, they don't fit in existing dash gauge holes

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I'd go with the stack gauges over the digital one, with the rate of which the EGT's rise it will be much quicker for you to determine at a glance when you are approaching the danger zone of bits melting.

Also if you cut the webbing between the ports it'll allow each primary to expand at its own rate and prevent warping.

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Maybe I should just bite the bullet and go for a Madman - I know, they don't fit in existing dash gauge holes

They do, unless I've misunderstood your post. i replaced the coolant temp gauge in mine with the Madman gauge.

It takes a bit of modifying of the back of the panel but it saves adding an extra pod, see pic below...

post-2025-0-98476300-1381449035_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for your feedback guys

@Dave W - Very impressive. It actually looks quite good. I had imagined it would have looked out of place, but I'm impressed.

out of a matter of interest, what sensors have you got hooked up? and do you find it user friendly?

I managed to find a new stack ST3313 for 75% off their listed retail of USD222, so I jumped at it and ordered one - they must have noticed their error in price as they went up to USD180 the next day :-) If I go down the Madman path - I mite be able to pass on the stack unopened in it's box...

I'll seek a quote for a madman anyways I think, I still need to have a look at what sensors I may need

@Ash - I've heard about the web cutting but never really been sure how much to remove or would just a simple cut into each web be suffice? definately something to consider when I remove the manifold for planning and for sensor fitting

BTW - As I read more on the DM6, I realised you actually need to purchase additional units to sit between each sensor, but they could share the gauge :-( so I think would work out quite pricey and as Ash said - not the best for quick readability that I'd be after...

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I'm using coolant level, coolant temp, EGT, Engine Oil Pressure and transfer box oil temp. The kits come with all the sensors and adaptors you need.

The only issue I had was the oil pressure sensor - it comes with a braided extension hose to move the original and new oil pressure sensors away from the turbo. This is a good thing BUT the "T" piece they supplied has 1 male and 2 female (for the sensors), the extension has a metric female end and they supply a male to male adaptor to convert it from metric to 1/8. That then means you need a 1/8 female to female adaptor between the T piece and the hose which they don't supply. Luckily I had one in the garage I could use but caused me a bit of head scratching !

The unit itself is pretty good, I like the max values for monitoring purposes and the mix of figures and a bar graph is nice. You can pretty much customise any of the sensors with min/max/alarm values and what they display etc... The text in the setup menus is a tad on the small side, especially if you suffer from short arm syndrome like me :) I can read the normal display though without my glasses !

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I have recently done a manifold for a mate of mine, after going for a big remap and a vgt turbo. It took the best part of two hours to do.

I drilled two 3mm holes in the corners of each web then cheated and plasma cut the webs out, then spent about 1 1/2 hours with a rotary file removing the burrs and polishing the edges.

I think if you just cut straight there could be a possibility it may lead to cracking even if drilled to put a radius on, I'd spend the time while you have got it off to do it, and it looks pretty cool :D

post-47238-0-33461600-1381700487_thumb.jpg

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