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90 fuel tanks


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Is it just me or are 90 under seat fuel tanks rubbish the tank in 45 was new 4 years ago and now it's leaking through both the seam and the bottom it doesn't appear to be rusty. I did consider pouring some sealer in but for the agro I might as well change it. So can anyone recommend a tank/what to do with it to make it last?

Mike

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Nope, not just you, they are rubbish. Worse with the shorty Ibex as the seatbox has to come out to remove the tank :angry2:

It seemed to me the cover under the tank just makes it worse, as grit and water get in between and fret through the metalwork.

Last one I fitted got POR15 poured liberally over the bottom to get between the cover and tank, then a few coats of stonechip over everything.

The idea was not so much to keep the crud out, but to glue the two together as far as possible, and make sure they don't move relative to each other under vibration.

It's been in there 6 years or so (and a lot of miles) without problems...

Previous one had been sealed round the edges of the brace with sikaflex or similar (by previous owner). Didn't know I had a leak at all, until the sealant let go on a petrol station forecourt one night :blush:

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Just did mine for the 3rd time in 18 years on my 300Tdi. 1st lasted 5 years, 2nd did 13 - I did seal between the bottom plate and tank to keep the moisture out on that one. Did the same on the latest.

I am seriously considering investigating getting some plastic tanks made. Yes I know the last 300Tdi and Td5s have behind axle fuel tanks, but there is the faff of the rear cross member, tow hitch stays and my non standard stainless exhaust to deal with.

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I think you will find that the originals up to when the name changed to Defender, were made from zinc coated steel (zintec).

After that from what I remember, they were not, and i don't recall seeing ANY aftermarket one that was.

Was about the same time that stopped galvanizing the body cappings irrespective of what model it was.

I seem to remember that all models had cleats for a soft top too.......................but maybe not ?

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Well it just gets better I ordered a new tank . I give it a rinse out as I'm going to put some tank sealer in before I use it in a bid to extend it's life and you guessed it it's leaking around the filler neck weld! Though to be far the guy I ordered it from has promised a replacement pronto.

Mike

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new tank, drill off the spot welds that joins the bottom bash plate to the tank, throw the plate in the bin, give an extra tough coat of paint to the tank, fit it with a flip down tank guard (gwynlewis).

oh and if you havent got front mud flaps, get some.

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  • 5 years later...

This is bound to happen to me sooner or later so I’ll ask the daft question now... Is it practical to galvanise a new one.

Also bear in mind they can rust from the inside aswell.

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8 hours ago, darthdicky said:

My tank is leaking so I'm looking to get a replacement, has anything changed in the last few years? Any particular ones to go for or avoid?

Richard

I opted for a Bearmach unit and I added an extra coat of paint to it as well. I can't remember how many years I had it after that before I sold it, but I didn't need to do anything to it and it didn't leak!

Steve

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  • 2 months later...

Any tips on getting the old tank out? I've removed the front bracket and all bolts and it moves back and forth fine, but there doesn't seem to be enough clearance along the sill/seatbox for it to rotate and drop out? Surely I don't need to remove the sill rail as well?

Not so worried about bashing the old one to get it out, but I want to be able to get the new one in without bending it!

Rich

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Removing the sill bar between the bulkhead and rear tub helps ... some drilling and cutting of bolts may be required though . I do marvel at the new improved tank design and mount on a 90 compared to the terrible series version .....

the three P's apply - patience , perseverance, and a pry bar .

cheers

Steve b

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  • 1 year later...

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