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My brother is looking at a TD5 which has just come on the market. Its done 170k and is a 2000, so not really high

It has full Land Rover service history

The questions he has asked me are;

1. what mileage is it good for?

2. what items should I check on the service history as having been replaced?

3. what might need to be replaced soon which would be expensive?

Any assistance much appreciated

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clucth/DMF can be very expensive to replace so preferably see if it has been replaced recently. and make sure it is a later 15p engine as they are much more reliable than the early ones.

apart from that 170k isnt a massive amount for a defender, so just look out for the usual wear, drivetrain slack, steering wander etc, all which can be sorted without too much expense

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clucth/DMF can be very expensive to replace so preferably see if it has been replaced recently. and make sure it is a later 15p engine as they are much more reliable than the early ones.

apart from that 170k isnt a massive amount for a defender, so just look out for the usual wear, drivetrain slack, steering wander etc, all which can be sorted without too much expense

Hi, sorry but what is a 15p engine and how would I know?

How long do clutches last?

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Fuel-pumps [in-tank, you have to drop the tank to change] have a limited lifespan: I'm on my third in 110,000 miles. Listen for any whining noises from the rear.

Injector copper O-rings go soft with age: mine failed at 85,000 miles.

Turbo wastegates can seize - causing either sloth-on-valium performance, or goes-like-a-rocket-until-the-overboost-threshold-trips, or an intermittent mix of both.

Gearboxes can get grumbly, and dual-mass-flywheels can wear, specially if driven by a 'taxi-driver' type who shoves it into 5th at 30MPH in town-driving and expects the engine to lug at barely-idle RPM..

As is the case with almost any vehicle, even with regular 'official' maintenance it's possible to utterly trash a Defender in 80,000 miles if the driver is a meathead; similarly if it's driven with understanding and sympathy it can do 250,000 miles.

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I've a 2000 110 CSW with a 10P engine that's done 160,000 miles and should be god for a lot more. The later 15P engines have some changes to ancillaries like EGR and fuel cooler but the main thing is it has steel head locating dowels rather than the plastic ones of the 10P. These can shear leading to head gaskets going but i don't think it's that common. Any head can crack but you only hear the horror stories rather than the majority giving no trouble.

The common things that go around the 100k mark are the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump and the starter motor although my original pump is still going strong. Like others have said, when it comes to a clutch change, the DMF often needs doing as well. My gearbox went at 80k, previous owner never had any servicing or warranty work done by a decent garage and there was EP90 in the gearbox!

Bodywork wise mine is getting shabby with all four door frames rotting nicely and I've recently had to replace the rear crossmember with a Black Sheep one.

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I have a 10P with 130.000 miles on the clock going stronger everyday. Had overheating issues but due to radiator and hoses (around 10 times was overheated big time, but never it damaged head gasket). I have drive 15P and they are better, not a lot, but you can feel they are smoother in respose, fell more "alive" in the low rpm scope. Also, they have some improvements ike steel dowels.

Whatever you buy, be sure to check if oil pump bolt was already tightened, a 2 pounds piece can cost you all your engine.....

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  • 2 weeks later...

Budgies = I'd say fan belt squealing... this can be a minor think or it can show that one of the pulleys/shafts is worn which would be more costly.... again relative to price and what service history you know about the truck... there will always be something its just being prepared for it... its the nature of the Green oval...

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While you aer down the front of the engine searching for budgies check the harmonic balancer and crank pulley. They wear, the three cast lugs that hold the harmonic balancer to the pulley fatigue and in the wrost case it comes off taking the engine fan, radiator and vraious other expensive bits with it resulting in much bad language and weeping over an empty wallet. This WILL happen in the most inconvenient location of course.

Its easy to check and other than the damn stupid stretch bolt holding on the pulley not too difficult to replace.

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While you aer down the front of the engine searching for budgies check the harmonic balancer and crank pulley. They wear, the three cast lugs that hold the harmonic balancer to the pulley fatigue and in the wrost case it comes off taking the engine fan, radiator and vraious other expensive bits with it resulting in much bad language and weeping over an empty wallet. This WILL happen in the most inconvenient location of course.

Its easy to check and other than the damn stupid stretch bolt holding on the pulley not too difficult to replace.

it seems to go after its been running for a while, if that helps?

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If it goes away after running for a while it could simply be an old hardened serpentine belt. Simply replacing the belt may make it dissappear. Obviously not easy if you haven't bought the vehicle but you could maybe take a can of "belt dressing" with you and spray the belt, if the noise goes away, you have your answer.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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