Tunning my RR 3.9 V8

[csimoes]

Nige i got this one

Laptom

at the moment i know enought to answer your question

just like Nige said

- one white (it doesn't mater wich one) to white + purple ECU

- the other white to chassis ground

- black joins with blue from ecu

- and grey to earth on the ECU

hope it helps

[Laptom]

Ok... Need to rewire 1 white one to ground then . Hope the Lambda wll work better then!

[csimoes]

can someone take a look at my log and see if the O2 signal is normal or not?

i posted the log up there ^

another thing i noticed its that the RPM signal sometimes spikes like crazy but the MAP and TPS signal are ok.

what could be the reason for this?

thank's

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Nige i got this one

<yoda Mode on> Strong the Megasquirt Force is with this one Yes </yoda mode off>

[csimoes]

need confirmation on one thing.

been Reading again and again and again the A to Z MS thread, but sometimes there are some bits lost in translation

to check the EDIS timing vs the trigger wheel i should:

- disconnect the SAW wire (pink) from the relay board

- start the engine, EDIS should set 10º limp home mode

- with timing gun see whats the number on the cranckpolie

- turn engine off

- adjust if necessary the software triming, if timing gun shows 7º then i put -3 in the software triming

- start the engine with SAW still disconnected

- check timing again with timing gun.

is that it?

[Bowie69]

Yup

Or, you can set the idle cells to a fixed value e.g. 10, then check that the figure on the laptop matches the figure on the pulley.

[FridgeFreezer]

As Bowie says, if you make the idle cells (or to be pedantic "all the cells the engine will be in when idling") some fixed value, EG 10deg, then you put the timing gun on & adjust the trim angle until the timing is correct (number seen on pulley with timing light = value in ignition map where the dot is).

[csimoes]

thanks!

can i do it online? the triming i mean

or is it better to stop engine, change software, burn to ECU and start everything again?

[Bowie69]

Do it while running, often the engine skips a moment when doing it for me, but then runs fine afterwards

[csimoes]

[FridgeFreezer]

Far easier to do trimming while it's idling, yes, if you have a long enough cable to stand the laptop on the bonnet it's very quick.

[csimoes]

after reading on another post by Mr. Noisy something about AFR tables, i got some questions.

after logging i should use MLV to tunne the VE table, ok.. using the AFRtable that it has.

mine, the one that poped up is

but then Mr. Noisy talked about runnig the car with narrowband and using target afr,

the only options i found in Megatune was to turn on the option, more setting\ lambda afr settings\ for VE table 1

and then would be active the afr target table VE1

but this one isn´t even close to the first table and as less row

after creating a good VE table isn´t it good to use the optionnal afr target tables?

or i'm i seing it all wrong?

[Bowie69]

Use Tunerstudio MS for a starter

[csimoes]

what's your opinion about

VE Analyze Live - tune for you

any good this option?

[Bowie69]

Well it certainly works, all written by the same bloke so uses same great algorithm.

[FridgeFreezer]

but then Mr. Noisy talked about runnig the car with narrowband and using target afr,

the only options i found in Megatune was to turn on the option, more setting\ lambda afr settings\ for VE table 1

Narrowband O2 sensors cannot tell you the AFR, so you cannot use AFR target tables in the ECU.

[csimoes]

thank's FrideFreezer

[csimoes]

if everything goes to plan next weekend i'll finally start data logging and tuning.

just finished Reading some more about tuning and Ve and Afr and spark tables and and and....

and in the advance tuning thread

it was told that spark tables have a big influence on the VE calculated by MLV.

i have the spark table that Nige gave me but i'm assuming it's for a petrol running engine.

i'll be tuning running on LPG (only use petrol to start and warmup) so the spark table will be different

how should i modify his spark table to use with LPG?

is there a good table to be used with LPG?

[csimoes]

i found this link

look at page 8

what do you think about the graph and it's numbers?

http://www.autogas-lpg.co.uk/file/ENG-STAG-TAP-01_02_manual.pdf

[Bowie69]

That's pretty close to what I have used for a MegaJolt map on a mates 3.9 on gas, idle advance is about 17

[Chazza]

And Bin the K&N they are rubbish !

Nige

Why do you say this Nigel?

"How to build horsepower" by David Vizard gives a very detailed chapter on air cleaners, including flow-testing; filtration and longevity.

I am talking about the K&N oiled-cotton filters; when they are blocked they still flow more air than a new paper filter and they can be washed and re-oiled and re-used forever!

Cheers Charlie

[Bowie69]

Yeah, but they also let all manner of nasty stuff into your engine!

Put simply, take two filters of similar surface area if one flows more than the other it is because it is not filtering as well!

K&N is fine on a low mileage racer that you might rebuild the engine every other year, but no good on a road machine.

[csimoes]

been playing with the spark table and would like to know your opinion.

what a did was use Nige spark table, add 5º to the 800 and 1000rpm and then kept the same incremental porpotion of the original table with 3 different table results by modifying the top advance.

which one do you think is the best to use with LPG. remenber that is to be used with LPG only

original spark from Nige

first option

second

third

[Chazza]

Yeah, but they also let all manner of nasty stuff into your engine!

Put simply, take two filters of similar surface area if one flows more than the other it is because it is not filtering as well!

K&N is fine on a low mileage racer that you might rebuild the engine every other year, but no good on a road machine.

So what evidence do you have to support these statements? I am not saying that you are wrong, but I like to work with facts.

Vizard is an engine research and development engineer, who has done extensive testing of paper and oiled-cotton filters. To counter your second statement, he explains that engine-induced pulsating air, causes the strands of oiled-cotton to sweep the air, which tends to collect the dirt on the strands rather than in the voids. On a paper element, the particles which are too big get caught in the voids, whilst the smaller particles will fit through the voids - your statement holds true with two filters made of the same material, but it does not when comparing two different filters, which use a different method of filtering.

In response to your last statement, I think it best to quote Vizard when talking about the genuine K&N oiled-cotton filter - he does warn the reader about cheap and nasty fakes which don't work!

"This mode of function leaves us with an element that can hold huge quantities of dirt before flow starts to degrade by any real amount. This is why most off-road race vehicles use K&N (or functional copies of K&N) elements and not paper ones, which degrade from the moment of start-up."

So what is the "nasty stuff" that has been let into engines you know about? Were they genuine K&N filters?

Incidentally, if anyone feels that this is becoming a thread hijack; I suggest not, as clean air in large volume is absolutely essential for tuning an engine to get the most out of it,

Cheers Charlie

[Bowie69]

If you do a search on here, you will find loads on K&N/performance filters and their effects, one notable incident of Hybrid from Hell's 5.2 Rover V8, which had very badly damaged bores due to poor filtration.

But to point you in the direction of SOME research : http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html