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EFI to Carbs Conversion


Johannadine

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I see all sorts of issues: what happens when the signals from the lambda-sensors go out-of-range because the ECU's no longer able to control fuelling and so it switches to 'limp-home' open-loop retarded-ignition-timing mode?

Glowing-red cats are impressive to see. I'd suggest you fix the electronics - if only because they give you at least 20% better fuel-economy over carbs.

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I see all sorts of issues: what happens when the signals from the lambda-sensors go out-of-range because the ECU's no longer able to control fuelling and so it switches to 'limp-home' open-loop retarded-ignition-timing mode?

Glowing-red cats are impressive to see. I'd suggest you fix the electronics - if only because they give you at least 20% better fuel-economy over carbs.

im so tied of trying to find the problem im ready to convert. they want to charge me R5000 for a gasket set what are they going to charge me for the rest.

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I see all sorts of issues: what happens when the signals from the lambda-sensors go out-of-range because the ECU's no longer able to control fuelling and so it switches to 'limp-home' open-loop retarded-ignition-timing mode?

Glowing-red cats are impressive to see. I'd suggest you fix the electronics - if only because they give you at least 20% better fuel-economy over carbs.

I believe (although I have assumed) that this is a hotwire system with a clockwork distributor. Nothing that advanced.

I agree with the above - try and keep the EFI. Nothing is unfixable and there's great knowledge about these systems on here. What issues are you having?

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I put a Disco 3.9 in my Stage One V8 and chose not to use the fuel injection (for legal reasons and because I didn't want the hassle). I just reused the inlet manifold from the older (Range Rover sourced) carburettor V8. It's a totally bolt-on conversion and went together with no trouble whatsoever, though I obviously didn't have to change my fuel pump. A little attention to ignition timing and mixture settings and the result is a very sweet running, easy starting and economical (20m.p.g. on a run) motor. It's way more powerful than the old engine was but I would think probably down a bit on peak power on the full injected setup as the carb diameter and main jet size is set up for a smaller engine with milder cams.

I can't recommend doing this enough, provided it is legal where you live. There are no problems with the ignition because they are independent systems on the 3.9. You will have to do something about air filtration, of course.

Previously, I have had two very similar 3.5 Range Rovers. One had carbs and a 4 speed manual, the other injection and a 4 speed auto, which was higher geared. Same driver, same driving style etc, I consistently got 10% better fuel economy out of the injected car. One little glitch I had with the fuel injection more than wiped out that financial saving. It's really worth thinking about that! Certainly, if I was working in remote areas again, I would much prefer the reliable simplicity of the Strombergs. The injected engines are in no way smoother or easier to start than a well set up engine with carbs.

That's my experience anyway!

Don

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I believe (although I have assumed) that this is a hotwire system with a clockwork distributor. Nothing that advanced.

I agree with the above - try and keep the EFI. Nothing is unfixable and there's great knowledge about these systems on here. What issues are you having?

My land rover 3.9 V8 when i want to pull away from a stop street its like it has a flat spot and the engine wants to stall. and it does not have any power tell i push the petrol flat down.

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we have been through the diagnostics test and every thing seems to fine. we did change the throttle position sensor, changed the ignition coil, change the coolant temperature sensor.

But when we bought the land rover we sew they had taken out the oxygen sensor and they fiddled with the air flow meter. And here by us these things are very very expensive and you can only get it by land rover agents here by us.

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This sounds all very wrong to me !

The hotwire EFI system is not super complex, and a garage that you are paying your hard earned to should be more than capable of sorting,

if they are not then find someone who is !.

There is a full diagnostic manual on here I shoved on years ago, if it passes ALL tests then maybe, it just maybe, its not the EFI system, and

you / garage need to find what it IS.

You could end up changing to carbs (a daft idea and not hassle or trouble free) at a fair cost and still find you have the issue.

Do you have emmissions tests as if you go carbs you may then fail on testing ?

Far far better is to start back at square one and logically snsibly and methodically go though the basics rulling them out and working then through the diagnostics etc

until the issue is found.

For starters, what is the Dizzy Cap, and Rotaor arm - are they GENUINE and not pattern parts ?
has anyone checked the timing, and also what are tghe plugs and when changed

What state is the air filter in,

whats the pressure in the fuel rail

Is this a standard 4x4 or a fit into something ?

When diod it start misbehaving, or has it never been right, if just then what if anything was touched ?

Up to you but I think your starting on a road full of pain and it might make things worse................

Nige

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I was going to do something similar with my V8 Disco when I had it, by the time I worked out the costs for conversion it was just not worth the effort and by doing as suggested with following through the trouble shooting guide the EFI is a basic and simple system, you quote costs as a reason to ditch the EFI but I can tell you that setting up carbs to run properly and efficiently aint no picnic either, and it could just end up costing you way more in fuel than you might realize as you just keep pouring it in when needed and it won't be until you work out how much MPG you are getting you don't see how bad it can be.

I did on my V8 Disco and glad I did, the extra economy and power more than paid for the parts with todays fuel prices!!!

Please do as suggested and work through the trouble shooting manual as HfH put on here and put one thing right at a time.

Although my money is on a worn out cam personally.

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The Garage is asking me a arm and a leg everything here is so expensive they want to charge me R25 000.

we did the full diagnostic manual test and everything seems to be fine thats why we giving up and doing the carbarators

the Dizzyarrow-10x10.png Cap, and Rotaor arm - they are geniue parts
has anyone checked the timing (is fine has been checked), and also what are the plugs (we changed the plugs)
What state is the air filter in,(a new air filter)
whats the pressure in the fuelarrow-10x10.png rail (Pressure fine)

It is a standard 4X4

Just after we bought it, it started with the problems so then we sew they took the oxygen sensors out and they fiddled with the Air flow meter.

Then when we stop by a stop street it reves high 2500 rpm for 5 min. then it only comes down. The stepper motor closes but not fully. when i put it off it has a flat spot and back fires through the air cleaner. and when it stallsarrow-10x10.png in gear it floods and wont start after 20 min.

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