bagpuss_993 Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Hi need some help big time, my discovery will not start (cranks fine), it all started with it becoming progressively harder to start, unknown to me that was the fuel pump on its way out, (new one now fitted), it then decided to stop and refuse to start (fuel pump finally dies) got it recovered home and borrowed the snapon modus to read the error codes, the usual air con ones in there (no air con fitted) and pre injection topside switch failure, (did some research and found it to be the ecu, second hand one sourced and fitted and synchronized). i have checked all the values from the different components on the engine management side of things according to the info on rave, i have also got a hawkeye which is throwing up a new fault of 0120 can error/can link fault, whilst i had the hawkeye connected i checked a few things one of them being the immobilizer and it showed up an open circuit, i have been told it could be the ecu and bcu but i have tried these on a mates td5 and they both work fine so that's them ruled out of the equation, would any of you landy gurus out there be able to shed some light on this for me, i am at my wits end with it, and the misses is giving me so much carp for spending all of my time on it and not with her lol, it may take all of my time but time well spent, and a landy dose'nt answer back, any help with the landy will be gratefully accepted, marriage guidance is something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam_43 Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 i would recomend you change the injector o rings and copper washers to start with. i have found that if Td5 be come harder to start, the fuel pumps and the filters have a black soot in them. i beleve this is from compresstion leaking past the o rings..i only fit genuine ones. the top end switch fault you mention on the injectors i have found to be the engine harness rubs on the inlet manifold and shorts the injector wires to ground causing this fault. ive been down the route of injector and ECUs and it turn out to be the engine harness. hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 the first thing i did was change them filters aswell, and as for the harness i changed that as the plug that goes into injector harness on underside of head fell to bits, so engine harness changed, was inspected before i fitted it, plugged node lights into injector harness and its not sending any signal to injectors to fire, but it cranks ok just doesnt start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 My limited knowledge means I end up saying the same thing over and over on these 'td5 won't start' threads...... Mine wouldn't start and it was the earth from the ECU ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Could it be the crank position sensor? I've read this is one thing that can definitely stop a truck in it's tracks. Griff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 cheers guys your help is appreciated, gona try a ckp sensor tommorow and a few other tests, if i have any joy i will be posting results on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 in this order: 1. check fuses F1, F12 in engine bay and rule out the main relay aswell(R9 engine bay)...swap with R8(heated screen) for test... 2. check the earth points on the earth "rail" which is near the jack compartment/battery toward the wheelarch, make sure they-re well tightened, especially the middle one... 3. unplug the inertia switch and bridge the pins in the plug ....if no joy 3. depends on how confident you are on the injector washers/seals job cos any minor mistake upon fitting could cause you trouble... addapt a proper fitting to a 5 bar pressure gauge as to be able to screw it instead of the temp sensor in the FPR and see if you have 4 bar there, if not you have a clogged fuel pipe(provided the pump is good)... leave it over night and if in the morning the pressure dropped under 3 bar then refit the injector washers/seals with extreme care about the CAN error message(presuming yours is an auto0... make continuity check on the CAN bus wires from ECM to EAT ECU, you can find pin disposals in RAVE- electrical library - connector views ..see C0158(ECM red plug) pins 32 - 35 the same colour wires in the EAT ECU ...though for this one you should have got the flashing M & S lights that's what comes in my mind at first sight seing what you've already done till now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Cheers sierraferry will try that tonight and let you know the out come, got to find fuel pressure teste now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hiya peeps heres the next riveting instalment of big blue the disco refuses to start, well checked the fuses(each removed checked and replaced), checked the main relay(replaced with glow plug relay), and checked the earth rail by the ecu(removed earth eyelets, cleaned and refitted), also replaced the ckp sensor and carried out a continuity test on the wiring from ckp to ecu and all is good but still refuses to start, made a few calls today to try and locate a fuel pressure tester today, and this is next on my list to check, but i'm convinced that my problem is electrical and not fuel, as soon as i get any results from fuel pressure test i will post it on here, as for can link/can error i think it relates to an automatic disco and mine is manual, any other avenues that could be ventured would be tried and tested and reported back on cheers guys, bagpuss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 It's not immobilised is it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 unfortunately not, if it was it wouldnt crank over, checked with hawkeye and it says that the security side of it is all working, wish it was that easy lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Sorry for asking the daft question - always worth asking though ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I presume hawkeye isn't reading any other faults ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 its not a problem sometimes daft questions spurn your memory to a possible cause lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 its saying no dtc,s evident, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 did you bypass the inertia fuel cut-off switch though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 yes forgot to mention that one still no joy though, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 then we have to wait for that pressure test imo...you can run circuit tests on injectors with hawkeye ...do that too ..you must hear them click when activated, let's make sure the ECU opens them i remembered something...put a voltmeter on the battery and watch it while cranking...if the voltage drops under 9V i will not start as the starter 'eats' all the current leaving the ECU underpowered...it's another thing to be ruled out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Test fired the injectors last night and put a new battery on,a good head scratcher this one belive me, never had a vehicle give me this much grief before,at the mo its giving me more than the misses lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 even with new battery the voltage test is relevant as i saw before that for some reason the starter motor has a greater drain than normal and the voltage drops hard while cranking...by the way run the purging procedure two or three times consecutively then try again(5 consecutive throttles then wait untill the MIL stops flashing)...by the way is the pump noisy after ignition on? ...cos if it sounds like a dying cat it's not ok...alos if it doesnt sount at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Will check voltage drop, as for the pump a new one was fitted but sounds smooth in operation, put an oem one on it, will check f/pressure and report back, cheers for the help it is really appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Could you rule out a starter drain by trying to bump start it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Could you rule out a starter drain by trying to bump start it ? i dont think that works for an auto...also i saw one case when the drop on the starter was not big but the starter's magnetic field disturbed the crank sensor's signal...it was a manual and it didnt start no matter what we did but it started when we towed it... fitted other starter and presto...very strange though ... @bagpuss_993 check also if the crank sensor wiring's shield is well earthed...also you can check at the ECM on the crank sensor's input, you must get 2-3 V AC while cranking. i dont envy you with this eldritch issue but be patient, you will get to the end of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 dont worry guys i havent forgotten to update this thread, just having difficulty locating an adaptor for the fuel pressure reg, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagpuss_993 Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Right here we go,, the voltage drops to 10.74 volts on cranking, theres 2 volts ish from ckp sensor and as for the fuel pump still searching for a fitting for fuel temp sensor, I have checked continuity on all the wires up to ecu, will be getting ecu sent off to be checked tommorow, as there is still no pulse from injector harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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