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series wheel fit to bonnet


tonydrover

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Hi,

I'd like to mount the spare wheel on the bonnet of my 2A. Bought the dish and the bolts and the s shaped thingies. But I still can't see how it bolts to the bonnet. The bolts aren't long enough. Admittedly the wheels aren't original ones but even if they were I couldn't see how it would go on there.

Anyone got some pics of one fitted so I can get my head around it?

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The wheel is fitted upside down, with the S shaped bits directly underneath the bolt heads to serve as clamps to the rim. The two bolts go up through the centre (hole for the hub) and clamps face outwards. That's how it is on mine anyway

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There are at least 2 sizes of strange - shaped metal clamps - the ones for long wheel base rims have longer legs on one side so they sit flat.

Many after-market wheels have diffrent offsets to standard wheels - and so the centre may be further from the rim when its lying flat.

The good news is that the wheel clamp dish is tapped with a BSF thread - so the standard-sized bolts are very expensive - and longer ones are probably unobtainable.

Have a look at late military fixings which were rather different and may work. Alternatively a rear door wheel mount might work.

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I bought long bolts and secured wheel with a flat bar , bolts from here where not too expensive.

Namrick Limited

Nut & Bolt Store
124 Portland Road
Hove
East Sussex
BN3 5QL
United Kingdom
01273 779864
01273 726708
enquiries@namrick.co.uk

REF DESCRIPTION QUANTITY PRICE COST

682 1/2" BSF x 3-1/2" HT Hex - 2 £2.63 £5.26
Head Bolt
No. Shipped 2



__Totals______________________

__________________________________

Subtotal: £5.26
Shipping & Handling: £3.46
Total Tax: £1.05
Total: £9.77
Check the length you require.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got some long threaded bar in 1/2" BSF and some nuts to suit. Made a bracket to hold the wheel down, and stuck it on there.

Now I don't like it on there!!!! I think it restricts the vision too much. Probably cos its an after market wheel. Might look at either putting it back on the swing away thing (which I didn't like either), or mounting it inside.

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It sounds like the problem is the wheel offset, putting the wheel centre further from the bonnet. Longer bolts would work fine, but you will need to make a bar that spans the wheel centre and takes both bolts as the clamps will not work properly with the long bolts; their legs will not press against the bonnet as the bolts are tightened, so they will not tip and press down on the wheel lip.

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The problem was the whell offset, which I solved, but now cos the wheel is bigger than the originals I don't like the restriction in vision.

Eventually I'd like to get some of the original wheels with the 650 16 tyres on to make it look more like it did when it was born. For the mean time I'll look at fitting it inside, or if push comes to shove then back on the rear wheel carrier.

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Tell me about it! Apart from a spare wheel, my bonnet also mounts a shovel and pick handle and the underside is fully clad in Noise Killer blanketing. It has the intermediate type of Defender stay that is rigid and clips up aft along the bonnet frame, which is quite a reach while holding the bonnet one handed. Fine for me, but the mechanic struggled on the MoT.

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Lmfao @ fridge freezer!

Bonnet spare wheel is ok if you're still running 6.00s, but for anything bigger restricts vision far too much, and make the bonnet soooooo heavy to lift......

IMHO the best place for the spare is inside against the bulkhead - there are brackets available in a standard landrover part no.

I'm not a fan of mounting wheels on the rear door either, as it knackered the rear door, but also makes the rear door so heavy - if you open the door with the truck parked facing uphill it damn near flattens you as it opens!

I've tried all positions and mine has lived inside the truck for years now.....

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There's no perfect place. I have had little trouble with the door mounted spare - no cracked door or broken lock, just the likelihood of accelerated hinge wear needing new bronze balls, which are cheap enough. The bonnet spare is difficult to get on and off, and makes opening the bonnet much harder. At 6', my vision is a little restricted, but for shorter drivers it would be a potential problem. Interior mounting takes valuable space, bring mess inside when swapping the spare in wet conditions and needs any load moving out of the way while it is done, and it needs to be very secure to avoid being a serious safety issue in a crash. Roof rack mounted is perhaps the worst, robbing valuable storage space, being a pig to lift and lower, and having a significant effect on the CoG and handling. So, take your pick!

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The wheel on the bonnet for bigger than 600x16 (88") was catered for on the 109 by using the "dished deluxe bonnet" which lowered the wheel by about 2 inches HTSH

ps landrover did tests and found that the vehicle was more "aerodynamic" with the spare wheel on the bonnet . !!

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The wheel on the bonnet for bigger than 600x16 (88") was catered for on the 109 by using the "dished deluxe bonnet" which lowered the wheel by about 2 inches HTSH

ps landrover did tests and found that the vehicle was more "aerodynamic" with the spare wheel on the bonnet . !!

I have often wondered about that, I find that it keeps the majority of the rain off the windscreen when raining hard as well.

I have a wolf on the bonnet with a 235x80x16 tyre from a 110 and its quite big, I had to make a bracket and bolt it through the bonnet as the wheel centre doesn't even touch the sticky up bits on the bonnet to secure it.

Cant see through my nearside mirror on the wing either so maybe have to put the swing away back on the rear to accommodate the spare. Love it on the bonnet though :)

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  • 5 weeks later...

Series rims came in 2 widths, swb rims (with 6.00 tyres) were 5 inches wide, lwb rims (7.50 tyres) were 5.5 inches wide. ALL Defender rims are 5.5 inches wide.

Not quite as series 1 ton were 6.5" wide 900 x 16 tyres and so are defender 130 rims but they are shod with 7.50 x 16" or 235/85 x 16" tyres.

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