gruntus Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Ok seems like I spend my life here now Having just about stripped everything from the 90 (rear axle to come off the old chassis and thats it) I have realised the following.. I need to replace all of the old bolts that I skillfully removed sheared with nice new plated ones. As you can imagine I would probably end up going to my bolt supplier more times than I go to the loo with a single bolt asking "have you got one like this". So to cut down on the fuel bills I thought it would be good to get a comprehensive list of all the bolt sizes and lenghts needed for a complete rebuild and then hand over a list. Not easy I know but I am prepared to make up the list over time as it will definately save time in the future for anyone else in the same situation. So as a starter for ten I presume that a list for the above doesn't already exist? Second I get the feeling that there may be a mix of imperial and metric bolts used and it may be worthwhile usng metric in place of imperial where possible. Any information that can help with the above is more than welcome. Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 genuine bolts aren't excessively spendy. I'd leave as is for the sizing etc and metric/imperial I just get them from exeter4x4 store they seem to stock most of the ones I've knackered. caliper mounting bolts also come in imperial//metric so don't try to update those with the wrong sort. saves measuring etc too just call them and give them a lidt of the ones you want and then wait for the postie to deliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 genuine bolts aren't excessively spendy.I'd leave as is for the sizing etc and metric/imperial I just get them from exeter4x4 store they seem to stock most of the ones I've knackered. caliper mounting bolts also come in imperial//metric so don't try to update those with the wrong sort. saves measuring etc too just call them and give them a lidt of the ones you want and then wait for the postie to deliver A Tony says, gen nuts and bolts aren't expensive. Actually, unless you've got a good supplier they may cost less at your local parts supplier. Annother option is to shop online for fixings. Several will supply in any volume you want and they deliver pretty quickly (a couple of working days). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 what I wanted was to get all the bolts I would need, chuck them in a few storage bins and pick them out as i needed them (utopia here i come... ) rather than keep going backwards and forwards to the bolt shop (feeling like a complete welk) I thought I would be organised and get them all at once. what I may do is collect all of the bolts taken off so far, sort them out (trusty thread gauge here I come) and bang a list together. had I been more organised I should have written a list as I went, but you know how it is when there is an opportunity to take things apart thanks for your help. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 I think (?) Roger Barton sells every single nut and bolt you'll ever need to put your motor back together. Might be rather kewel to buy the whole lot. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 there are quite a few bolts on the defenders that you'd be hard pushed to find anywhere else, i'd stick to replacing like for like, many of the aftermarket people do bolts, Paddocks do panhard rod bolts, for something like a pound each, and they are just slightly different from what you'd find in your local bolt place... its worth keeping a good stock of M6, M8, M10 and M12 bolts though, a small order to screwfix should sort you out. oh, and try to use stainless nuts, you can't get away with stainless bolts on structural places, or suspension, but if you use a stainless nyloc, at least it cant sieze on..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 there are quite a few bolts on the defenders that you'd be hard pushed to find anywhere else, i'd stick to replacing like for like, many of the aftermarket people do bolts, Paddocks do panhard rod bolts, for something like a pound each, and they are just slightly different from what you'd find in your local bolt place... its worth keeping a good stock of M6, M8, M10 and M12 bolts though, a small order to screwfix should sort you out. oh, and try to use stainless nuts, you can't get away with stainless bolts on structural places, or suspension, but if you use a stainless nyloc, at least it cant sieze on..... Keep stainless away from aluminium. Stainless can seize, even to itself, use a barrier grease. I've had to stop doing mail order since my local post office closed, my car got stolen and Cornhill Insurance ripped me off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 I didn't know you couldn't use stainless bolts on suspension? any reason why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 I didn't know you couldn't use stainless bolts on suspension?any reason why? You want it to be high tensile and SS won't be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Normal high tensile grade bolts (8.8) will do for most stuff on a LR, two places that I can think of that use stronger bolts are the swivel to axle bolts which I think are 12.9 but only I use genuine LR bolts for this location (have heard of people replacing with 12.9 socket cap bolts) and the other location I can think of that may use more than 8.8 bolts is the caliper mounting bolts, again I 'm not totally sure of teh spec so you may want to check. Anything else I just use 8.8 grade high tensile BZP bolts from my local fastener suppliers. 99.9% of the stuff I have found on a LR has been metric, UNF or UNC, which makes thread identification fairly easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 stainless is further up (or down, cant remember which way it goes) the galvanic series than aluminium, and is even more agressive than mild steel, if stainless is left in contact with ally, it will eventually turn the ally into grey/white dust. (this is effectivly turning the ally back into its natural state ie, aluminium oxide) you can get high tensile stainless bolts, but they're so expensive its not worth it. stainless steel can corrode aswell.... normal 'A2' stailess can be suseptable to pitting corrosion, if it is in constant contact with salt water, this is unlikely on a car, but if its constantly splashed with salt water from winter roads it could happen.. A4 stainless offers much better resistance to pitting corrosion, but is more expensive, most critical marine applications specify A4 stainless.. hope this helps. m@tt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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