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I appreciate that this is a done to death subject, but i'm on a slightly different track here.

I have turned the diaphragm quarter of a turn, star wheel down one turn.

What my issue is, is that the boost comes in very gently. I drove a friend's discovery, and the off boost/on boost transition is very snappy. His truck goes much better than mine.

I get reasonably dense smoke off boost and a light haze on boost to full throttle.

Any ideas? I wonder weather I should screw the low speed fuelling screw out a little to cut down the smoke off boost. I dont know if that would affect how the turbo spools up or not. Over all, what i have at the moment is an engine that feels, well, lazy.

Roland

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I'd wind the off boost screw out so there isn't a dense smoke off boost - there shouldn't be normally. Do you get black smoke at idle?

If you want the boost to come on quicker, decrease preload on the diaphragm by winding the starwheel in further.

Also, don't rely on just turning the diaphragm.... take it out and put the steepest/deepest part of the pin facing forwards towards the rad. This puts the fueling as controlled by the diaphragm at max.

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Sounds like you have the diaphram in the wrong place. Instead of "turning it 90 degrees". pull it out and refit it with the bottom tapers deepest point facing the front of the vehicle..

You shouldnt have to wind the low fueling out at all, the pumps i've messed with tend to get about 1 1/2 - 2 turns in.

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if I let the engine go to idle speed in gear, rolling, then floor it, then yes I get smoke. I dont get smoke if the truck is just ticking over though. Ok, I shall try winding the starwheel in a little further.

The diaphragm is set to its richest setting.

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Yep. Do as above.

I took the white collar off of mine a few years ago. Not sure where it is now...

Have you got a boost guage fitted? Fiddling with the fuelling changes the boost and the actuator might need adjusting one way or the other afterwards anyway.

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I ran my 200Tdi at 24Psi of boost and advanced the injection pump timing too. turning the max fuel screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn really heats thing up, id fit an egt gauge as its amazing how high they get going up steep hills or when going flat out.

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I ran my 200Tdi at 24Psi of boost and advanced the injection pump timing too. turning the max fuel screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn really heats thing up, id fit an egt gauge as its amazing how high they get going up steep hills or when going flat out.

At 24 PSI of boost its bound to get hot!

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I ran my 200Tdi at 24Psi of boost and advanced the injection pump timing too. turning the max fuel screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn really heats thing up, id fit an egt gauge as its amazing how high they get going up steep hills or when going flat out.

Did you change to a different spring in the boost diaphram? The stock spring bottoms out by 13 psi.

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It had 175,000 miles, I had the turbo rebuilt but with a marginally larger compressor wheel, which boosted up fast. The diaphragm spring was standard and I removed the nylon spacer.

I put an auto meter egt gauge on, when going up hill flat out the EGT's would race up to about 850'c (1560'f) and by letting off the throttle very slightly they would come down to 600-650'c

I ran it for roughly 18 months like this with not a single problem.

I was planning to instal a water meth injection kit but sold it to get a 110.

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  • 6 years later...

I know this is an old post but I took the boost pin out of my injector pump and in doing so I lost the plastic collar that's sits above the starwheel, this was a stupid mistake on my half and the collar has completely disappeared. Question is can I run the engine without the collar and can anyone help me source a collar.

Cheers

Ben

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Posted (edited)

Since I am about tuning my 200Tdi, what component or physical process is limiting the boost pressure? At the moment I run it around 19 psi and I believe EGT is droping by rising the pressure (what's good).

I can imagine, that it is only a problem, if you are in high regions. The turbo will spin a lot higher at high altitudes to achieve the adjusted pressure.

Until now I only turned in the main delivery screw 1/2 turn. Smoke is not to much and can be controlled quite simple with the right foot. I'd like to leave it like that, because it will be easy to turn it back, when I have to make the exhaust gas control each two years.

I do not exactly understand, whats the difference between adjusting the boost pin parameters and the main screw. I think the engine characteristics is adjusted in the boost pin things, like diaphragm turns, spring load and collar. That means, if I turn the main screw in, I keep the stock characteristics, but rise the delivery in all revs. Isn't it like that?

Edited by Sigi_H
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Thanks. I know that pdf.

It confirms my opinion that an increase by the main screw only makes sense with more boost pressure and a larger intercooler. But it is then the first stage and the second stage is the adjustment of the boost pin. And always have an eye on the EGT 🥴

But it doesn't answer my question, what the boost pressure limits are and why

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Ok. I had about 21 psi and reduced it to 19 psi because I wasn't sure about consequences. When I reduced the pressure I saw the increase of EGT.

Do you think despite the high altitude problem nothing will happen? What about the intercooler itself and the hoses? If thats ok I am going to leave the pressure at 19 psi. My intercooler is the Allisport double core.

 

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