Cynic-al Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 That's good to see, thanks. A concern I have with the Bowden cable route is will it be able to perform the push action? The only ways I can see around it are a cable either side for in and out under tension or a spring to help it out with a latching control lever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Yep, my Iveco 4010 has the cable to engage, and a spring coupled to it to dis-engage, simple and effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Or get a marine Morse cable used for throttle and gear applications they push and pull and are robust. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 That's interesting, I thought about the throttle cable and reverser on boats but I thought they ran 2 cables, one to either side. I will look into those, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Here you go. http://www.controlsandcables.com/buy-online/control-cables/morse-cable/ Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Thanks, that could come in handy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Not much progress but more questions Are there different types of land rover axle? I got one off a discovery and stripped it to copy the brackets for mine and the shock mounts seem different? This is mine This is the one I stripped, it has sort of cups for the shocks to fit in that mine doesn't have. Looks the same otherwise so I'm sure I can still copy from it. Otherwise the rear Toyota axle is ready for the brackets Been looking at the diff lock mechanism too, I got a marine cable as suggested above and I think it's going to be perfect. I started to sketch out a copy of the land rover sprung diff lock mechanism so you don't have to hold your hand on the lever whilst the teeth line up but I'm worried it's going to be too big at the axle end and get knocked off, guess I could put it in the cabin... Or just keep it simple and have a direct link, after all it's an auto so you've usually got a free hand. Decisions decisions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Chisel the cups off & use the shock bushes as per your first picture, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 I think the later axles had the cups spot welded on - when I changed suspension on my td5 I had to drill the spot welds out to knock them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 So long as everything is in the same place that'll be fine, learn something every day, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Well progress is slow but there. I've finished welding all the brackets onto the axle and made the customary bent plate diff guard. I will steam it and give it a coat of primer but I won't finish paint it until I have decided if I need weld any tabs on to hold the brake lines etc. If I was doing it again I would definitely do it on car but you live and learn Next is to look at the difflock, I looked at copying the land rover sprung difflock mechanism but when I started to measure up it was going to end up really big on the axle so I'm thinking to going back to a pneumatic cylinder for compactness and ease of fitting. On a plus note my new garage is nearly ready for the land rover so other projects are moving too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 So did a bit of playing with the rear difflock. Prototyped a cable version and a pneumatic. Leaning towards the pneumatic at the moment. A lot simpler, less machining, easier to seal and easier to route the pipework. Cable version is designed so that you can throw the lever over and a spring will out pressure on until the teeth line up when it will engage, same for disengagement. The cable would be attached to where my hand is and it would be fully enclosed and sealed to stop things from getting clogged up with mud. As the great doc brown would say please forgive the crudity of the model The pneumatic version is pretty much done, one part needs a tweak and it would need some gaskets making but it seems kind if there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aniesigh Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 I've made pretty much exactly the same as your pneumatic version for my 80 series axles on my rr, truck still being built so not tested yet but seems neatest and best solution to me, like you say cable would end up fairly bulky and probably easily damaged, the most vulnerable part of the pneumatic one is the cylinder and if it did get damaged they're cheap and easy to change! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 18, 2014 Author Share Posted May 18, 2014 I did think about making a removable bash plate mounted to the axle to protect the mechanism but that cylinder is that small I don't think it will be a problem (famous last words!) I need to rebuild the rear axle then start on the front one, have you converted the front locker to pneumatic too, is it a similar setup? Looks slightly different from the outside but I haven't opened it up yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aniesigh Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 No not done anything to the front, as you say it looks slightly different from outside. i got distracted after i did the rear one and started on other jobs on the truck but will be back to it soon, hoping to do something similar, bought 2 identical cylinders then i can buy another as a spare and it would fit front or rear if i broke one. mine are larger than yours although i might change that. will keep an eye on this to see how you get on with the front then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Fronts are different. There's a little rack&pinion sort of thing in there that moves the locking collar which sits at a 90degree angle, unlike the rear one that is in line with the locker collar movement. Don't know if I made it any clearer now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 This is much more clear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 Thats some useful information, thanks! Is 41462 the rack that drives on the pinion on the motor gearbox then? It would be nice if I could hack it some way so that the cylinder was on the side for a straight push like the rear but I guess I won't know until I strip it. I guess 41469 is just a guide to keep everything straight so I might be lucky and be able to squeeze a little cylinder in there. I want to rebuild the rear first so that I don't have too many bits lying around It would probably pay to do the fabrication on the front axle first too so that I don't make something then find it fouls something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 No, 41462 is a guide pin where the locking fork slides over. Like a selector fork in a gearbox. The pinion rides on a rack that's integral with the locking fork 41451A. You can see the teeth on top, just underneath is where the guide pin slides through.. If the actuator can be taken apart so you could use the pinion you could fabricate something with a lever turning that pinion shaft. From memory that cap 41469 sits close to suspension components. On mine it sits basically inside the leaf spring perch. Thats some useful information, thanks! Is 41462 the rack that drives on the pinion on the motor gearbox then? It would be nice if I could hack it some way so that the cylinder was on the side for a straight push like the rear but I guess I won't know until I strip it. I guess 41469 is just a guide to keep everything straight so I might be lucky and be able to squeeze a little cylinder in there. I want to rebuild the rear first so that I don't have too many bits lying around It would probably pay to do the fabrication on the front axle first too so that I don't make something then find it fouls something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Ok thanks, guess I will have to suck it and see when I get that far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Usually those front actuators don't go wrong often. You could keep it electric. I'm using the factory system and it has been working flawlessly for the past 4years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 I have no experience with them so I wasn't sure how reliable they would be, however I have seen the price of replacement which is why I figured if I can make something else that's easier to source and cheaper to replace then it's easier to change on the bench than once they're under the car. I guess I will have to decide when I get that far. Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 People have mixed experiences with them, especially the rear actuator. The housing crumbles to pieces, it gets full of dirt and carp and refuses to work. I was lucky in that the housing was still good, so I cleaned it up, regreased it, fitted an extended breather hose to it, refitted the actuator with gasket sealant to prevent steel to aluminium corrosion and coated the outside of the actuator with hammerite and other stuff. I brought another one back from the dead, it was full of corrosion, dirt and carp but I got it to work again. I exercise them now and again when I park my truck in a city. Pretty hard to try to take it away with both lockers engaged and they need to turn it on asphalt . Those rear actuators are stupid expensive, if you haven't got one, or one that has a corroded housing it would make sense to find a cheaper, simpler solution. I haven't seen front actuators for sale new. Those seem to be less susceptible to corrosion issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 The front actuators are the same as the mk5 and mk6 hilux rears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Undecided about the front locker at the moment so I will take the information in board and decide when I get that far I've modified the pinion flange to take a land rover prop shaft. You can still get the nuts & bolts on so it should be ok I've ordered a load of bearings and seals etc then I'm taking the diff to rock watt to be rebuilt with a solid crush collar then I can start to put this one back together and move onto the front. I managed to source some rear half shaft studs from roughtrax who did a bit of digging for me and found they are the same part as is fitted to the front of a Toyota pickup which they happen to stock a kit which includes stud, cone washer, spring washer and nut for about £3.30. Happy days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.