Cynic-al Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Probably m5, the usual sizes are m5, 1/8 or 1/4 on little cylinders. Pm me your address and I will post you some. What size nylon tube are you using, 4mm or 6mm? If you know the make they usually have good online catalogues. What are you using it for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Thanks dude, that's generous of you. I'm using 6mm airline. I'm making up an air freespool for my ep9 to replace the broken manual one I'm using a cheap Chinese cylinder. I've just looked up the port sizes and they're 4mm, my usual method of drilling and retapping to 1/8 doesn't look doable with the wall thickness I have Back on topic; are you using toyota or LR track rod ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Never heard of m4 fittings, try an m5 screw in are if it works? Air freespool is on my list for the tds, trouble is I don't get through my lists quickly look forward to seeing how you get on. The initial plan was to keep toyota steering and just make it fit at the steering box but as people have suggested this will foul the radius arms in just going to have to suck it and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Looks ace! How much clearance between the cylinder and the o/s radius arm bracket will you have Al? And i'd definitely be using a 5 port valve and powering the locking dog back out as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 If I can seal the front of the cylinder I will dan, only needs a couple of bar so an O ring should be fine. Unfortunately there's only around 2mm clearance to the case, slightly more in the middle as the end plates recessed, maybe a bit more once the nuts torqued too you'd also have more clearance if you had the head of the bolt against the cylinder rather than the nyloc nut but then you'd have to remove the diff before you could get the radius arm off which I guess you could live with for the number of times you take one off? Other option I though of would be to go for a longer stroke more compact design but double acting then add a spring. Or from memory it needs around 13mm to fully engage / disengage, you could go for a 10mm stroke cylinder like at the back and not quite fully engage it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 I've spent quite a bit of time trying to seal the single acting cylinders and in the end gave up. Just not enough space basically so I took my own advice and found a couple of suitable double acting cylinders with 10mm more stroke than I needed. I also got some springs and ended up with this; As the double acting cylinders don't have the spring they are shorter than the single acting to start with and they've ended up being nice and compact, the cylinder for the front locker will be 5mm longer than the above due to the extra stroke required. The rear components could be modified so I got the back one in tonight, the front needs new bits making so I've made a start but haven't got very far yet. Now I can pneumatically power it in and out but if you have no air, ie normal road driving with your compressor off or your air system fails, it will unlock the diff and hold it unlocked to prevent damage from it floating about. Not sure if I'm happy I've finally found such a simple solution or disappointed it took me so long (although maybe that's because I was resisting buying more cylinders at all costs ) but either way it's finally a line drawn! They need a slightly higher pressure as they're a smaller diameter but they're at 3 bar here, the cylinders are good for 10 bar and the compressor on my vehicle good for 8 so theres a bit of redundancy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPBj_5m6-WE I also had to make a washer, you can see it just above the selector fork on the video, this is because the stroke was previously restricted by the cylinder, now the end stroke is determined by the compression of the spring it's not very well defined and if the stroke becomes too long it's putting pressure on the selector fork the whole time it's engaged which has to be bad for wear and tear. The washer now limits the forward position... if that makes sense... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Front done too Around 10mm shorter than the first attempt which is a bonus Also made a blank plate for where the motor was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Looking good, you're nearly there then? Soon ready to start fitting them to the Rangie? CV's seems to be the real downfall to these axles, you have any plans on reinforcing them, or just see how it goes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 To do; - Modify prop flange to take LR prop - Get Rockwatt to rebuild diff with solid crush collar - Rebuild axles with all new seals and bearings etc (neither of the axles needed bearings but I wanted to put new seals in throughout and it didn't work out that much more expensive to buy the kits that include new bearings. - Work out what I'm doing with regard steering hitting radius arms? - Work out what to do with the brakes - should I re-plumb range rover to work with single circuit land cruiser calipers or try graft the range rover dual circuit calipers onto the land cruiser axle? - Fit them and work out what the heck I'm going to do to get the almost 37" tyres to clear the body? With regard to the CVs believe it or not in the 5 years I've had the range rover I've never done a CV or shaft, only diffs so I'm going to suck it and see. Mine are the earlier toyota axles with the smaller drive flange so I'm told if I ever do a CV swap to the newer larger drive flange and CV. I'm also told stronger CVs can be imported. Expensive but atleast it's just a nut and bolt job to fit. Here she is when I got her 5 years ago, actually looks almost respectable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Good job on the actuator! Small, simple and effective. - Work out what to do with the brakes - should I re-plumb range rover to work with single circuit land cruiser calipers or try graft the range rover dual circuit calipers onto the land cruiser axle? Would also depend on the state of the brakelines and MC I guess. If they're bad you might as well replumb with a single circuit MC. If they're still good you could fit a T before the flexi line to the axle. CV's seems to be the real downfall to these axles, you have any plans on reinforcing them, or just see how it goes? Have you seen the size of these things? They're 105mm, way bigger than anything else from Toyota, not to mention LR. Even Patrol CV's aren't this large. There are way stronger aftermarket ones for sale but they might not be a good option for a permanent 4wd vehicle as they seem to be softer than genuine CV's and thus wear quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 The diff flange has been machined to match the lr prop and the diff has gone to rockwatt engineering to be built up with a solid crush collar. In the meantime I thought I would clean up the internals and strip and rebuild the hubs. Anyone know if these grooves are there on purpose or have the seals worn them in? The diff was pretty worn so I'm guessing the axle has done a few miles but that's pretty impressive if the seals cut it in! I got bored with cleaning so started to make up a switch panel. I've wanted to fill this gap ever since I got angry when the clip came off the gear selector cable at an inappropriate time and I think it will work well. I wanted to mimic the standard lr diff lock lever. The plate will also have the locked indicator lights and maybe the winch switch as it's a much better location than on the dash. Anyone know of a decent fixing that will fit in the standard holes? If not I will just self tapper it into the plastic surround. Shows the 6 holes that I'd like a fixing for. Valves all fit pretty well though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 You could rivnut those holes with M3 or M4 rivnuts, then use flangehead fixings, they look tidy I use them all over the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 That's the sort of thing I was thinking just wasn't sure if the land rover plastic would be man enough Might get some aluminium ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 When rivnutting dubious plastics I put a washer behind the rivnut before I pull it up, spreads the load a bit and stops it pulling through the plastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Good tip thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 The groove on that shaft is worn in from the inner axle oil seal riding on it. It's a pesky seal prone to leaking oil into the swivel assembly turning the grease into a gooey mess that leaks out the big wiper seal... I replaced one the other day with a genuine seal and damn it was one flexy seal, very soft rubber. Hopefully it seals better than the non genuine one that was in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 That's a serious groove, not sure what make my seals are, will have to suck it and see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Whilst the diff is away I've been getting on with some odd jobs. I've rebuilt the hubs with new bearings and seals. The front calipers are serviceable but I've ordered a seal set as they were looking a bit flaky. I decided to make a guard for the rear cylinder, I'm not really concerned with the cylinder being damaged but was worried about reeds or something breaking the fittings off. I found a bit of 316 75x75x6 angle and hacked it, bent it and welded it to make this. Bit of a struggle to work with but it's serviceable. Plus I don't have to paint it. I finished the above switch panel, the riv nuts were a no go in the land rover plastic so I raided my collection of stuff I should throw away and found some of those metal clips you put self tappers through. Then I made a diff lock indicator with 3 lights instead of one. It needs cleaning and painting and the leds putting in but you get the idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I'm loving the difflock indicator panel! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I might have a pair of calipers for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Wasn't sure how the finer detail would come out but it looks ok. Doh! I've ordered the seals now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Speedi-sleeve the shafts while they are out Al, Otherwise the front diff oil will just fall out the bottom of the swivels! Looking good though mate, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Never heard of speedi sleeve thanks for the top. I'd thought about having them welded and ground but by the time you'd paid for that you'd probably have a good chunk towards uprated shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Mine were worse than yours Al, new genuine seals would keep the oil in for about 3 events if I was lucky. I speedi-sleaved them and never had a problem, until some bits of a cv ate one of them! Roger has a much cheaper solution (the bas***rd) he just fitted some seals with the same od but a 1mm smaller id! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 He would I wonder if having the seal in a groove rather than point contact would ever cause enough friction to damage it due to the increased contact area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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