Cynic-al Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 Well managed to find some Toyota wheels, annoyingly they came with some tyres attached and at the prices tyre fitters charge to swap them all around I'm going to keep them... Might have to add bodywork to the list of jobs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Just a little bit bigger At least your axles will hold up to the abuse now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 Slow progress, back axle is back together with new wheel bearings & seals all around. Rear callipers have been rebuilt, the pistons & seals were ok but the slide bolts, bellows and pad clips were a bit past it so I replaced those. The bellows have to be bought as part of a full seal kit which bumps the price up, however a friendly Toyota parts dealer thought the 100 series were the same and available individually so I got some of those which fit with a little tweak. The Toyota parts use a different flare to the land rover stuff so I've run the brake lines as far as the middle of the diff where I will flare them to suit the land rover tee piece when I put the axle on so I can keep my extended flexi hose the same. I've also got a gwyn lewis a-frame joint in a holder so that I can completely get rid of the self levelling unit when I swap the axle. Just waiting for the diff to come back from RockWatt then the rest of the parts can be bolted on. In the meantime I've made a start on the front, I've stripped the axle and chopped all the brackets off, just needs a clean up before I start to try to stick some land rover brackets on. This is a bit sad as I don't have the car to put it on but I was a bit short of work for the 3D printer this week so I knocked this up. Freehand painting isn't my strong point so I doubt it'll end up green and gold, probably the silver grey that they do the lettering in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aniesigh Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 If you're going for stock LR radius arms on the front, you won't be able to have them parallel to the chassis rails as per std. A combination of the LC axle being wider and the diff being more offset means the bracket would want to be right where the axle casing starts enlarging in diameter towards the diff housing. I ended up having my brackets further apart but at an angle (radius arms then end up tapering out from chassis to axle) I think I may at some point (when I've ran out of other jobs to do) change this for a 1 link setup. Also as mentioned earlier in the thread the tie bar will foul the radius arms. I took off my stock tie bar and made a new one with m20 rod ends, mounted under the radius arms and modified the knuckle arms to a double shear type mount. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 That's useful to know, I did think about a one link but I have that many other jobs to do and I'm so slow that I was planning on leaving it to be a project in its own right. If there are that many problems to overcome maybe I should reconsider! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aniesigh Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 It's only two problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 True, however the attraction of keeping it stock land rover is I could do it off car, with my appalling pace it means I don't lose the car for as long, if I have issues to sort on car I might as well spend the time on the one link. I thing I will get the axle cleaned up and next to a landy axle and see how it looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 . Also as mentioned earlier in the thread the tie bar will foul the radius arms. I took off my stock tie bar and made a new one with m20 rod ends, mounted under the radius arms and modified the knuckle arms to a double shear type mount. Hope this helps Or, if you have some.... ok a lot... of extra cash lying around in an old sock or something you could get one of these high steer knuckle kits for the 80series, made by hellfire fabworks. Nice bit of kit, especially awesome for putting them on leaf sprung vehicles. First set of these to land on european soil, and on my doorstep (and yes, europe includes the uk too ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Hmmm, well I've got some 27mm plate so I'll get the stihl saw out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyRoverlander Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Too bad the original knuckles only have a 2 bolt top cap with no room for additional bolts, this is an aftermarket 6 stud knuckle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aniesigh Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Wish my budget stretched to those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share Posted July 11, 2014 Well doesn't look too bad so I'll strip the landy axle and rob the brackets and see how it fits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 Well I'm going away soon so I thought I'd have a few early mornings on the axle, try and get something done so I can get the shed tided up a bit and get rid of all the stuff I don't need. Swapped the brackets over, the short side was awkward as suggested as its tight getting everything lined up and the radius arum to fit under but it's on, lets hope it's in the right place I also had to make a steering stop as the one on the ns was part of the stock suspension brackets so I just coped what was on the os with an offcut of plate off the pile (which work keep telling me to scrap...). Whilst I was digging around the offcut pile I also found the bit of pipe in the bottom corner of the first photo (see, look how handy that pile of metal has been to them that they want me to clear out ), Originally it was something like 4" x 1/4" pipe, I want to keep the diff guard as discrete as possible due to the panhard etc so I'm going to try cutting that into pieces and see if I can blend it around the pan... time will tell. Definately would've been better doing it on car and making all brackets from scratch but hey ho you live and learn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Great work Al Not sure I can offer much in an Toyota technical sense but having recently bought a 90 with 80-series axles fitted via standard LR suspension, I would be happy to take measurements etc if you require. They were built up on a jig and look to be fitted well including LR props. Looking forward to seeing how you deal with the track rod fouling the radius arms, the previous owner of mine simply cut notches out of the radius arms for clearance - not a solution I am very fond of. Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 Interesting solution It'll be a while before I get that far but I'm sure I will find a suitable bodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Great work Al Not sure I can offer much in an Toyota technical sense but having recently bought a 90 with 80-series axles fitted via standard LR suspension, I would be happy to take measurements etc if you require. They were built up on a jig and look to be fitted well including LR props. Looking forward to seeing how you deal with the track rod fouling the radius arms, the previous owner of mine simply cut notches out of the radius arms for clearance - not a solution I am very fond of. Harry One solution would be to have bent arms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 One solution would be to have bent arms I'd thought about that but don't have the equipment to bend an HD arm and have only spent 24 hours in the UK since buying the vehicle in June Fingers crossed there may be a way of installing the track rod from underneath, gaining about 1.5 inches of clearance but this is dependent on the tapers of the TREs. An RB44 truck has a track rod that looks about right for your suggestion, it would just require shortening and drilling/tapping for the TREs. I have one in the shed so will have a look when I'm back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomark10 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I'd thought about that but don't have the equipment to bend an HD arm and have only spent 24 hours in the UK since buying the vehicle in June Fingers crossed there may be a way of installing the track rod from underneath, gaining about 1.5 inches of clearance but this is dependent on the tapers of the TREs. An RB44 truck has a track rod that looks about right for your suggestion, it would just require shortening and drilling/tapping for the TREs. I have one in the shed so will have a look when I'm back Another solution would be to make some kind of "high steer" setup (http://seilers.smugmug.com/Fabrication/High-Pinion-Dana-44/HPD44/DSC3090/890801181_ciaQn-X2.jpg) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Gone as far as I can go with the back axle without putting it on a truck, those tyres are going to cause a serious headache! Just hoping the diff lock cylinder has enough to unlock once it has the weight of the car, should be ok once the load is off. Also started on a diff guard for the front but nothing really to show yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Bit more snail pace progress. Done a little diff guard on the front from some 100mm ish Id x 10mm thick pipe to try keep it all as close fitting as possible. To be honest it was a complete pain to do and now I've done it I can think of a hundred better ways to do it but such is life The band is the same material as the pipe but tweeked at arms lengths of the big scary press to match the pan as closely as possible. The welds were very disappointing. The pipe would stick to itself but was messy sticking to the axle. However it's definitely stuck so meh. Onto the interesting stuff I started looking at the front diff lock, looks like I will have about 55mm clearance to get an actuator in although it needs a 15mm stroke rather than the 10mm for the rear one for whatever reason so I'll look at the catalogues tomorrow and take it from there. But fingers crossed I can just go for a straight push rather than having to make some sort of rotation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 I was trying to find a neat way to water proof the vent on the cylinder, I tried to rig up some sort of bellow like the trail gear axle breather but everything was so small I decided to just drill out the vent and put a push fit in. Upon doing so I learnt that these cylinders don't have a seal on the sprung side. I'm not sure if axle oil will get in as its fairly tight fitting but if it does I'll have to machine the cap to take a couple of o rings. Hindsight says a double acting cylinder with a longer stroke then put a spring in it would've been easier! the front was tight, especially for a single acting cylinder, I looked at pneumatic rotators but they're only available double acting so it didn't gain me anything apart from extra work and cost. I tried to get a custom length cylinder made which is common practice in everything but the compact cylinders as they arn't made the conventional way, the manufacturer wouldn't accompdate the work for an order of 1! Anyway, I've managed to find one that should squeeze in but it's a 3 week lead time which actually suits as I'm away again soon. I've drawn up the parts so I'll probably rapid prototype them to start with as its unmanned hours which helps out at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Well the cylinder arrived whilst I was away so I thought I'd better make a little more effort, it ended up around 5mm longer than I was expecting which is annoying as space is critical, it's also got M5 threads which I hate as they snap off if you so much as cough, but seeing as I'd paid for it I persevered anyway The cylinder is a standard construction unlike the compact cylinder so you could probably get a custom one made up with a shorter stroke and save another 2mm if you needed it. I printed the pin and mount just to see if the size was right before I put the time into making metal ones, they lasted better than I thought and it proved the point and highlighted a couple of changes I needed so I'm glad I did it. It fits with a couple of mm clearance and all seems to work OK so looks like I've got away with it. With a 90 degree elbow the air fittings will also fit between the diff and axle casing so should be protected The nice thing is everything on the diff is still standard so if I ever wanted to go back to the elocker it's just a nut and bolt job. Next I need to make a plate to blank off where the electric motor was and I figured seeing as it's taken me 10 months to get this far I might as well try to seal the front of the cylinders from oil ingress whilst it's all on the bench, this will allow me to go double acting too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Great tech, that 3D printer really does come in handy I can see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Yes, I'm so glad work bought it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I ordered one of those little air cylinders a month ago and it arrived today I'm sure it said in the specs it took 1/8bsp air fittings but now it's arrived they are tiny ports, any idea what the thread is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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