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BogMonster

Defender alloy nuts

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The covers on the old alloy nuts on my Defender are suffering wear and tear from continuous changing of wheels over the years, and I need to sort it out as the socket tends to jam on several of them now. Yes I use a rattle gun, and no I don't want a lecture on how bad they are for nuts! Life is too short.

There seem to be 3 options;

1) Change the nuts for the older type (fitted on the likes of 200Tdi Discoverys) which are one-piece, but tend to rust quickly

2) Find something else

3) Just buy a new set

So, questions:

Does anybody know if there is an alternative replacement that is more robust but still non-corrosive? I don't know if stainless nuts are available, but a stainless nut on an alloy wheel and steel stud seem like a recipe for seizure and corrosion to me, so I'm not convinced about that even if they are available.

Who does the cheapest aftermarket nuts that are a copy of the genuine part? I've found them for £2 each, which seems a decent price.

Thoughts please. I want to keep the alloys for my regular use. Steel wheels rust too quickly.

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Most alloys have a steel insert where the nut goes, therefore corrosion shouldn't be a problem. Zeus used to do stainless wheel nuts, but as my internet is having a hissy fit at the mo, I can't get to the website, however did find these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-STAINLESS-STEEL-WHEEL-NUTS-1-set-20-/380815877144

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No good - they need to be the types with a flat shoulder on them, to suit the Genuine types of Defender alloys eg Boost, Tornado etc. Same as what you would find on a Defender with factory alloys, or a Discovery 1. I don't think the Genuine alloys have an insert, or at least nothing you can see, hence the design of nut pressing on a flat face. The wheels also centre on the hub, rather than on the studs.

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my 110has predator alloys which have steel insert. and use standard shouldered nuts. The powder coating should should isolate the two metal types more than adequately...

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I looked for alternatives a while back as mine are still ok, but one or two showing slightly ragged edges...

I didn't find anything I would have bought so when the time comes I'll be replacing with genuine again.

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Genuine nuts are feckin expensive, but the aftermarket ones for about £2 each are bearable, so I think I'll just go with those.

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Steve

I have a set of Wrington Stainless Steel wheel nuts for 110 Alloys to sell, from my 110 that are hardly used.

Like these - http://www.wrington.co.uk/landrover%20alloy%20wheel%20nuts.html The £300 for 20 set, Vogue ones fIt 110's.

I swopped for steel wheels to go to Morocco, never changed them back., I think there are 20 if not a couple more.

The ones I have do not have an enclosed end, so less likely to corrode.

You can always use Duralac paste to avoid galvanic action between alloy and steel.

Boat riggers use it all the time and it is very effective.

Let me know if you might be interested. I am sure we can reach a deal!

John

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