ejparrott Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Ouch, pinion bearing gone, its the flange end that goes as phil said, usually from over tightening, or no oil! Replace the whole axle, and use The good wheel cylinders and brakes from the other as you said. Swap can be done in about a couple of hours if every nut and bolt can be undone nicely. Mine took about 3 hours from start to finish except for bleeding when i did the disc brake axle. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I swapped my Salisbury diff twice, from 3.54 to 4.71 and back again. It really isn't hard if you have that spreader, it's just a little heavy lifting the diff centre in and out while laying under the vehicle. I did it with the axle in situ and without jacking the chassis, but I have 1-ton shackles and chassis with parabolics, which does lift it all a bit. If you jack the chassis up, you'll probably get enough axle drop to do the same. I put a write up of the diff swap on my blog, so you can read up how it went on there. It should be very straight forward. Keep the shim pack from the destroyed pinion in place if it's not damaged, and transfer the pinion with its current bearings if they're in good order. Obviously, you'll need to drift their outer races from the 11 casing to replace the knackered ones in the 109 case, but they're the same bearing and the tolerances on the bearings and pinions are tight enough that the shim set in the axle is just for casing tolerances. Before you fit the new pinion, test fit the 110 diff centre and its bearings without removing its shims. In almost all cases, the diff casing is machined accurately enough that you won't need to adjust them - just fit the diff centre and bearing caps (loosely) and remove the spreader to check there is no end float on the bearings and also minimal resistance to turning. When you've done than, whip it back out and fit the pinion. Then refit the diff centre and check for backlash - it's adjusted by moving bearing shims from one side to the other. I used emulsion paint in lieu of engineers' blue to check the mesh, but it was perfect in both cases without touching shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanks Nick, I am thinking about it now. I still need to do the front spring hangers at some point, might be worth be still doing that and just dropping the spring bolts out when I jack it up. I'll ponder! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 No scallops on this one http://s718.photobucket.com/user/CCKW353A1/media/sals12_zps22ade44b.jpg.html?filters[user]=88874377&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1#/user/CCKW353A1/media/sals12_zps22ade44b.jpg.html?filters%5Buser%5D=88874377&filters%5Brecent%5D=1&sort=1&o=1&_suid=139379106065609006823463174376 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 there's not on the 3.54 110 spare I've got either. I'm still thinking about it. Feels like swapping the diff in the axle under the vehicle is going to be heavy and awkward, but at the same time maybe I should because then I know all the bearings will be ok, whereas if I just use the V8 axle, it could just as likely go the same way anyway..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 I know what you mean, it's one thing to be dragging a heavy axle out from under a vehicle on axle stands, it's another to be under there yourself whilst balancing a diff on your chest! G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Here you go (photos at the bottom): http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/dropping-the-diff-ratios-salisbury/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Does anyone know where I can buy stainless steel wheel cylinder pistons for 6cyl/ Stage one front brakes. I'm getting tired of unseizing the damn things every year. Packing the boots with rubber grease doesn't do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 You could ask Zeus Engineering, who do stainless pistons for disc brake units. Even if they don't make them as standard, they may make up a set specially. Their kits are pretty well priced ad are very good quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Does anyone know where I can buy stainless steel wheel cylinder pistons for 6cyl/ Stage one front brakes. I'm getting tired of unseizing the damn things every year. Packing the boots with rubber grease doesn't do the trick. Ed, a little CNC job on the side for you? i would have 2 sets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Ed, a little CNC job on the side for you? i would have 2 sets. Actually when I think about it, a complete piston isn't really necessary. Just turn the diameter down a little and press stainless rings on. A mate of mine did a similar thing to Railko pins about 10 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 need samples! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Actually, the firms that re sleeve obsolete or rare master/wheel cylinders should be capable of sleeving pistons as it is much the same or easier operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 DO both cylinder AND piston. Everlasting wheel cylinders! G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 DO both cylinder AND piston. Everlasting wheel cylinders! G. Cylinders were sleeved 15 years ago. Will do pistons and then hose clamp the stupid Girling rubber boots in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Ed, i will see what i can find for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Here you go (photos at the bottom): http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/dropping-the-diff-ratios-salisbury/ I've had a good read of that thanks Nick. I'm seriously thinking about swapping the diff now. If I get 4 new bearings, a crush tube (and a spare!) and a seal, do you honestly think that the machining is accurate to just use the exisiting shims? I will of course measure the pinion height before I take it out just in case - I have the technology so I'd be a fool not too. Somewhere I've seen a workshop manual for doing it, I think Phil might have sent a link over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 If the 110's bearings are in good order, you can just use those - they're identical to the 109's. You'll need a new seal, but you might even be able to re-use the crush tube (though it would have been better using the 109s had it not bee wrecked). The crush tube is very stiff and is by far the worst part of the job. You saw how I couldn't do it on the vehicle because you really need the long tools and a ramp, so I did it in the vice. Be warned that using a prop bolt to stop the flange and pinion turning in the vice ended up bending the bolt, so have spare bolts or use some scrap ones for that job. If you do it my way, then just fit the bearings ad pinion, nip the nut so that all the pinion play is just removed but it's easy to turn, then mark the pinion and nut so you have a target position for the nut when crushing the tube in the vice. However, when you fit the crushed tube and pinion in the casing, the tube will be pushing back and you can expect to turn the nut past the marks to get rid of the play. You'll have to struggle that last bit on the vehicle. Lubricating the threads may help considerably, though that could make it easy for the nut to come undone later. You could lubricated them for the crushing job, mark the nut again, then undo it to clean the threads off before refitting. Remember to peen the nut when it's tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Diff swap it is then.... I would imagine that i'll have to remove the bearings on the pinion and the main assembly anyway wouldn't I, I'll need the shims from the 109's casing surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Leave the pinion bearing inner races on the 110 pinion, since they should be undamaged and that's the pinion you want to use. Drift the outer raced out of the 110 casing to replace the damages 109 bearings. Use the 109's shims if they are still intact, which they should be. Use the 110 bearings still on the 110 carrier - the outer races will fall off as you pull the carrier out, so have some towels or rubber mats under the casing to catch them and prevent damage (notice the rubber matt under mine to allow me to roll the diff into position before lifting or lower it quickly to the ground without damage). The carrier shims are betwee the inner races and carrier. Leave them until you have test fit the carrier without the pinion and then alter if needed (very unlikely) to get the right overall width. You may have to move shims from one side to the other later when you test the mesh with the pinion installed, but this is also unlikely. Chances are that it'll al go together with no messing about with shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Thanks Nick. I'll get some bearings and bits on order, and see if I can find my engineers blue, then I'll be back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 It's an easier job if you can use the existing bearings - it'll save pulling the old ones off the carrier and pinion and pressing new on. As it says on my blog, I used emulsion paint in lieu of engineers blue with adequate results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Ed if you cant find the manual swing by with a flash drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Thanks both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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