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Gantry plan for roof


Gazzar

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2014 is the year of the new garage!

I'm building a 40' by 16' - 2 bay steel portal frame garage at the end of my garden, and it just struck me, as I was getting the spec on the purlins, that it would be a good idea to fit a gantry crane thing to ease removing engines.

What I thought was that instead of fitting purlins I could use a couple of I beams instead in one bay, and have a little cross travel beam that could run up and down the I- beams, with a suitably rated mains hoist on it.

Just enough to lift an engine out and slide it to the side where I could put it on a bench.

At this point inspiration ran out (an empty bottle is a sad thing) and I couldn't figure how to organise things so the little cross beam could travel up and down the I beams.

This has been done before as I'm sure I've seen photos of similar, but for the life of me I can't remember where.

If you've done this before, could you post up your experiences, and if you had any photos I'd be grateful if you could post them too, so I can steal the ideas away!

Thanks,

G.

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Right ,

First photo shows the bracket arrangement on the rafter to runway beam and photo 2 shows the cross beam , you need to use 'articulated trolleys' to connect the cross bream to the runway beam.

They're designed for making simple crane systems like mine , so if your block & tackle is one one end with say an engine on when you pull it it won't lock up ( which is what will happen if you don't use articulated trolleys)

I would put the roof purlins on as normal and then put the runway beams like mine , if your workshop is going to be a lean too/ mono slope then put the brackets for the runway beams on the posts.

You may as we'll put the runway beams the full 40' length as it's only the extra cost of 2 runway beams.

I'm really chuffed with my crane , lifted a lathe of a trailer and moved to other end of workshop and really useful when I did the trumpet housing on my tractor .

Hth

Gary

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That's exactly the same principal as our abus hoist at work. You need to make sure the steel uprights and footings are strong enough for the snow load on the roof plus the weight of the hoist and if your hanging it from the edge of the I you need to make sure this is strong enough. If

The edge of the I isn't strong enough you can put it on top so the weight is over the middle.

If you want some photos of the abus I can take some next week, obviously it's bigger than you'll want but it might give ideas. As a rule of thumb anything over 5 tonne has to go ontop of the I but as you will be using smaller stuff you'll need to work it out.

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Garymorris, that is a superb system, it's what I'd like to put in, but I'm not sure my structure would take it. Articulated pulleys - that's the key.

I am restricted with keeping the height under 4 metres total, to avoid the need for planning permission, so am trying to keep the whole roof structure as stealth as possible, to the extent that I'm putting the purlins at the same level as the "I" beam. Which is why I thought I could stick an "I" beam instead of the middle purlin and keep it tight. Would a 127 x 57 I beam span 6 metres, and take the weight of itself + cross beam and tackle block, I wonder?

I'm also hoping to put in a 2 post lift so have to arrange things such that everything works together.

Western, I never thought of a curved rail - but it does make a lot of sense!

Cynic-al, the more ideas the better!

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Are you going apex or lean too stylee ? If you go with an apex and go for 10 degree the rise to the apex would be 653 mm so that would give you 3.350 (approx) at eaves .

If you then put the zed purlin with the rafter , you could then put the runway beam underneath which will then give you 40' length of travel :)

Also if you put the brackets for the runway beam up the rafter a bit this will gain you a little extra height.

I personally would try and use a 152x89x16 ub or preferably a 178x102x19 ub (I used this size) , a 127x76x13 ub is a bit small really , especially for a 6 mtr bay , imho

Cheers

Gary

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Wow that's a home system???

I have an old farm garage and a container so no hoist possible.

Marc

PS

Your workshop is larger than my house!

Lol :)

I've spent the last few years managing a single domestic garage , having to let the tyres down or just put rims on to get projects in &'out of the garage :(

When we moved house 2 years , one of the reasons for (me) choosing the house we moved to was so that I could build my 'man shed'.

I also felt it was somewhat of an injustice that somebody who spends 12 hours a day selling/making/erecting steel framed buildings for a living , didn't have one :( so I got it sorted :)

Gary

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Are you going apex or lean too stylee ? If you go with an apex and go for 10 degree the rise to the apex would be 653 mm so that would give you 3.350 (approx) at eaves .

If you then put the zed purlin with the rafter , you could then put the runway beam underneath which will then give you 40' length of travel :)

Also if you put the brackets for the runway beam up the rafter a bit this will gain you a little extra height.

I personally would try and use a 152x89x16 ub or preferably a 178x102x19 ub (I used this size) , a 127x76x13 ub is a bit small really , especially for a 6 mtr bay , imho

Cheers

Gary

I have to be 2.5m at the eaves - otherwise the dreaded planning permission comes into play, so I'm at about 27 degrees.

I think I'll have a chat with the steel fabricator - he's been around and would be able to size it up fast. I'll call in on him on Monday. If he builds the brackets in then I can always extend it later.

And I think you are right - having it being able to cover the entire shed would be a serious bonus. I suppose that once the cross beam clears the 2 post then it doesn't really matter how high it is.

Thanks, Next job: get the readymix ordered for the Stanchion pads. We progress!

G.

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You could always go for the a-frame on wheels type. Then you could take it outside too.

I know this is commercial but it gives ideas I guess! It's a long span but only 5 tonne lift. I think the steel has a good safety factor :)

You can see the 'up and down the building direction' is sat ontop of the I beam which is bolted to the uprights that hold the roof up. This has an extra bit welded ontop to strengthen the flanges where the wheels run. The wheels are spread apart to give it stability and stop it twisting and falling off. The hoist that runs side to side hangs under the I beam, generally if the lift is more than 5 tonne they have two I beams ruining parallel with the hoist spanning the tops of them. This is because the flange on the I beam isn't generally strong enough to take any more than 5 tonne. You can just about make out a black clamp under the I beam that limits the movement of the cartridge and some rubber stops just incase you get too close to the end.

19C31D07-9C53-4CDE-A812-C7973DC3BA26_zps

FC329EBF-1939-4E17-B63C-2DC5CB1127D7_zps

I don't know how well it shows in these photos but the fixed I beams are adjustable so you can make sure everything is in line and smooth running.

42069B35-9A74-4E46-9575-2015146F3D85_zps

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Thanks Cynic-Al. That is some set up - hooters and all!

I think I'll stick with simple, as it's what I am. As the weight I plan on lifting will only be in the region of 500kg I'll be able to keep the steel light.

I'll get the shed frame built to take a gantry, and then, as and when the need arises, I can get the gantry built. I could even do it my self I guess!

G.

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Don't see why you couldn't do it yourself!

On the above when you connect the radio control to the hoist it sounds the horn and the light starts to flash. The display tells you the weight on the cable. All very high tech and OTT ;)

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Proper impressed with that gantry crane system. My man cave has some holes in the ceiling for electric hoists, but they're more intended for dangling nubile young ladies, than tonnes of equipment ;) And they only go up and down...

I think we need some pictures of your "workshop".

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That's the correct way round surely? Houses is only for resting in between being in the workshop after all.

I tried to explain that!

And work is only to find money for the workshop!

No dice. We moved, the workshop didn't. SO now I've to build a new one. Much smaller, but it WILL be dismantlable - so NEXT time we move it can come with us!

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