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Tub underside


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Has anyone stone guarded the underside of their tub? More specifically the inner arches?

I'm aware the tub is almost all alloy/aluminium and factory spec appears to be the lightest dusting of paint known to man, just wondered if it's worth the effort to try and add a layer of sound deadening and a little added weather protection.

The plan is to etch prime all the bare areas then seam seal and prime as usual. Do I topcoat then waxoyl, or schutz/gravitex then topcoat.

The bad point is creating a water trap if the stoneguard gets breached.

Any advice or experience appreciated

Scott

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I stuck two layers of Flashband, giving it a blast with a heat gun and a roller to work it into every corner, then put a thick coat of Raptor coating in top, seems to have taken really well. Only time and mileage will tell, the wagon is off for its MOT this weekend!

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I was thinking just the same thing yesterday driving along in the rain listening to the spray hitting the wheel boxes. I reckon that the most effective solution would be an extra skin, either a plastic inner arch nicked out of something else, or a piece of ali folder round with some sticky closed cell stuff on the back of it.

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I painted mine with etch primer and some combi colour that was lying in the shed, then a very thick covering of waxoyl/hammerite gloop.

If I was to do it again, I'd try the raptor/line-x stuff, simply because the waxoyl is messy and never dries.

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Years ago (decades, actually) I riveted some corriboard - the plastic corrugated paperstuff onto the ribs of the wheelboxes on my 88". It made a huge difference to the noise from stones, and the mud just washed off, but when I do it next time I'll put flashband on first.

G.

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My main dislike about waxoyl and similar non-setting coatings is their limited scope for cleaning. I like to be able to wash/scrub all the crud from the inner arches and underside and whilst not impossible with waxoyl it's a lot easier with a hardened finish

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My main dislike about waxoyl and similar non-setting coatings is their limited scope for cleaning. I like to be able to wash/scrub all the crud from the inner arches and underside and whilst not impossible with waxoyl it's a lot easier with a hardened finish

Not difficult at all.

My 90 has been Waxoyled for 15-years now (with occasional re-applications) and the muck practically falls off. I pride myself if keeping the underside clean (no pressure washer required, just regular cleaning with a hose-pipe) so rot never has a chance to take hold. The Army were good at teaching how to get into ALL the nooks & crannies which also makes the vehicle more pleasent to work on. Come MOT time there is always a comment along the lines of how nice it is to check a vehicle where you don't get muck falling in your face all the time.

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What about fixing some plastic trailer mudguards up inside the arch................or even some HGV type things.

I have got some small trailer ones here ehich have a flat top and could be fixed to the ribs in the wheelarches. These ones are too small for the job, but I have seen bigger ones

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Not difficult at all.

My 90 has been Waxoyled for 15-years now (with occasional re-applications) and the muck practically falls off. I pride myself if keeping the underside clean (no pressure washer required, just regular cleaning with a hose-pipe) so rot never has a chance to take hold. The Army were good at teaching how to get into ALL the nooks & crannies which also makes the vehicle more pleasent to work on. Come MOT time there is always a comment along the lines of how nice it is to check a vehicle where you don't get muck falling in your face all the time.

This is how I clean I like mine...sad but hey-ho. Never had any problems selling cars on when they're kept like this tho

My astra gsi

d594fd57.jpg

Vectra gsi

DSC00227-2.jpg

Mk3 astra gsi

IMG_6718.jpg

Yes, I like my vauxhalls too lol

At MOT time the testers put rags on the beam jack so as not to damage the paint.

Back on topic though, on one of the rally are we built the Kevlar guards were only lasting a couple of events before thinning through so we used curved section from blue chemical barrels to form inner arch guards and deflectors. Those worked a treat

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