robmurg Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Please could I ask for some advice? I've an 1986 ex-military 110 with an oil leak at the drive flange on the rear differential (final drive). If I understand correctly the bearing pre-load is set by the retaining nut for the flange but if the nut is replaced in exactly the same position the oil seal can be changed without special tools. However, when I removed the flange there's a lot of wear under the seal. I assume it needs replacing, is it possible for me to do this without messing up the pre-load? Is there a reliable way for me to set the pre-load without special tools? Thanks for all help! Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Might you be able to use a speedisleeve on the flange and so reuse it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 The crushable tube that spaces the pinion bearings needs hundreds of foot-pounds to be squeezed. While a newly fitted tube will have an amount of hysteresis, so refitting the flange and nut will get tight before the bearing preload is reached, an old tube has most likely lost that due to the heat, vibration and plain time that it has been under compression. I have previously replaced the seal, losing markings during the job, and had no problem simply tightening the nut to 120'lbs - it's enough to nip the nut up so it doesn't come loose, but not enough to increase any bearing preload. In my diff swap, I used a new crushable tube. To set it right needed a hell of a force which I couldn't apply on the vehicle. It had to be preset on a bench, but ended up with the hysteresis problem in the paragraph above. I just tightened the nut further until all the play was gone but no further, and it's working perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmurg Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Thank you both, I didn't know about Speedisleeves, they look very useful. I've decided to go down the replacement flange route (cost is about the same) and torque it up carefully. If the measured dimensions are the same (I'll use a vernier) then presumably the nut should in theory arrive at the same spot as confirmation. It looks as thogh it is feasible to pull the half-shafts out and get an idea of the bearing load as a cross check. Thanks again for your advice, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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