Ouroborross Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Hi all, New to landrover and just bought a freelander TD4 Adventurer 55 plate, manual. All seemed fine until this morning until setting off for work. Started fine, but as soon as I pulled off the driveway it felt sluggish, very sluggish. Did not want to accelerate and was a job to get it above 40mph. No odd noises, no smoke, no warning light, just lack of power. Stopped, turned off the engine, restarted it and away I went again absolutely fine. Nipped out for lunch and did the same on starting to go back to work. Again, turned off engine and restarted and all fine again. Did a bit of googling and found similar issues discussed here, related to MAF and turbo actuator, but not quite what I'm seeing in that with mine a restart clears the problem. I guess that no warning light means no codes for the garage to read out? Sticky actuator? Where to start? Thanks in advance. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I had the same problem on my TD5 Defender - turbo wastegate actuator stuck closed. What happens is that when you apply power, the boost goes up but continues going up because the wastegate isn't opening to regulate the pressure properly. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor senses this excess boost and protectively switches the ECU into "limp-home" mode with limited fuel-delivery. Switching off and restarting means the 'limp-home' is reset to normal - until the next time the boost exceeds the programmed safety-threshold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouroborross Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 That Makes a lot of sense Tanuki. But if it were in 'Limp Home' mode, surely I'd see the Engine Management Light on my dash? It does light up when I turn on ignition and obviously off when started to show all is OK. If the scenario you describe does not result in the EML coming on then I agree and is somewhere to start. Equally, if its an issue with the MAP sensor then this would also have the same effect i.e. incorrectly reading too much boost. Did your EML come on in this situation? thanks Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I would get a code read done at a recommended "local as you can find" LR indy. With the VNT used on the little BMW engine,even if the vanes stick in the full boost angle you should get full performance until the ecu sees the need to waste boost.Often this is not until around 70mph with a wide throttle opening. That the check engine lamp has not come on does not mean that no codes will be stored,few of the many complaints that the engine ecu may record will put the lamp on. Another plus is that Bosch DDE codes are usually fairly accurate,and if there are multiple ones stored,record them,drive till it faults and then reread them - this way the new codes will be a VERY strong indicator of the fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouroborross Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Anyone recommend a decent independent LR garage in Derbyshire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouroborross Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 My replies don't seen to be getting moderators approval. Understand that there may be a lot of moderating to do tho. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Been working on my own 110, your post are now visible to all, we are only part time mods,so please be patient Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouroborross Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Been working on my own 110, your post are now visible to all, we are only part time mods,so please be patient Apologies, just eager :-) Read a long thread over on landyzone, and there seem to be a few bods who have had the same issue. Think the map sensor is a good stating point along with cleaning the MAF. Just need to get a Allen key long enough to reach down the back of the bay to get the covers off. Also, do you need to remove the engine mount to get the map sensor out? Looks tight and fiddly otherwise! Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Common TD4 engine problems that I've had are: 1. EGR Valve, take it off, clean it thoroughly and make sure it operates freely. Think about disabling..... 2. MAF sensor- Unplug it and see if it drives better 3. Turbo Actuator and associated vacuum pipes - examine all the pipes and check for leaks, especially round about the vacuum pump and check the actuator moves freely. 4. Fuel rain pressure sensor- not that common a fail Maybe others could add to the list with their common problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouroborross Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Thanks for that. The EGR bypass kits seem quite cheap and easy to fit. On the list. My fault happens so infrequently (most of the time) I'd need to leave the MAF unplugged for a week or so to be sure. Will give it a clean. The MAP sensor seems to be a common problem that other people with similar intermittent faults have got to, but yes, will also be checking hoses etc. How do you test the actuator without engine running? How much travel should it have? I'm sure it's fine as it's running fine 95% of the time. Thanks again and I'll keep narrowing down the list! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Thanks for that. The EGR bypass kits seem quite cheap and easy to fit. On the list. My fault happens so infrequently (most of the time) I'd need to leave the MAF unplugged for a week or so to be sure. Will give it a clean. The MAP sensor seems to be a common problem that other people with similar intermittent faults have got to, but yes, will also be checking hoses etc. How do you test the actuator without engine running? How much travel should it have? I'm sure it's fine as it's running fine 95% of the time. Thanks again and I'll keep narrowing down the list! Cleaning the MAF sensor may or may not work, generally they last about 60K miles and they're done. Rev the engine and you should see the turbo actuator operating. The last TD4 I had drove perfectly except on long motorway journeys where it would gradually lose power and it ended up being the turbo actuator. I don't think they got a MAP sensor til after 2003???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I believe the extra sensor on the inlet pipe post-2003 was air temperature (IAT), MAP is on the manifold, driver's side from memory. My TD4 gets lazy after a few thousand motorway miles, green laning or driving the country lanes seems to perk it up, my assumption is the turbo actuator spends too long in one place & sticks, a bit of varied thrashing around / spirited driving frees it off. That said, EGR can stick (mine was locked solid) so fitting a blanking kit is a reasonable call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I believe the extra sensor on the inlet pipe post-2003 was air temperature (IAT), MAP is on the manifold, driver's side from memory. My TD4 gets lazy after a few thousand motorway miles, green laning or driving the country lanes seems to perk it up, my assumption is the turbo actuator spends too long in one place & sticks, a bit of varied thrashing around / spirited driving frees it off. That said, EGR can stick (mine was locked solid) so fitting a blanking kit is a reasonable call. I stand corrected The MAF sensor had an IAT sensor on it, was this spun out to a seperate sensor post 2003? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouroborross Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Update: with a bit of fiddling, cleaned the MAP sensor with a bit of brake cleaner about a week ago and it's been fine since. Didn't look completely blocked but if it's a calibrated orifice or something then that may affect how it reads? Anyway, all good for now. Probably for another post, so will do but; RonBox's, any good? Surely if performance and economy can be increased so easily, why didn't BMW/landrover do it already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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