Meatslicer Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 HI all, has anyone used rubber applied to steel and aluminium panels to try to stop the two metals corroding together? I am in the process of rebuilding a 110 and all the tub areas (outrigger mounts, rear chassis mount, bump stop mount) that need to be in contact with the chassis and seat belt mounts have corroded so badly they will all need replacing. I have a pot of roof-repair rubber solution that goes on neatly and looks like it would be a good insulating layer between panels. I had thought it would be a good thing to do when I have replaced the tabs and panels to stop this happening again. Another question, my bulkhead outriggers both have holes running from the rear surface, up and over to the other surface underneath where the footwells are mounted. I have removed the N\S one and am in the process of welding on a replacement. The off side hole is much smaller and looks patchable. is it worth patching it or is replacement the best option? I only ask because removing the NS one has taken almost a week of spare time fiddling to get off and cleaned up enough for welding. Doing another one is not a good prospect. Any advice gratefully accepted. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Difficult to say without seeing it honestly, have you got the bulkhead off? Just wondering why it took a week to get the one off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Hi I've tried to decouple the steel bits from the Ali where possible. I've used some rubber sheet I've got sculling around about 1mm thick. Your roof repair stuff may work by excluding moisture but I suspect that as you tighten the joint you'll end up with metal to metal contact. If you're just going to exclude moisture then you may find the thick waxoil will do an equivalent job. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merv121 Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 In the Yacht trade we use a product called Duralac to insulate dissimilar metals, Silmid.com have 500 ml tins on there site, most chandlery will keep tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 also used on aircraft, more commonly called yak **** due to the colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Maybe Im a bit slow but to get the NS off, Ive already got the old bulkhead off and scrapped (the local pikeys removed it without me having to ask them), currently still have the front wings on but they get in the way of easy cutting and grinding. Doing all this on my drive under a desert camo tank throwover so sunny weather and no wind so I can mig are good, windy weather and rain put the mockers on a bit because gasless mig welding takes so long with cleaning every few inches and getting a good surface to weld on. If possible I would like to patch the holes in the outrigger but wonder if a patch would be ok for MOT. The hole is on the upper surface, about 3 inches inboard from the bulkhead mounting bolt tube. Looks like the rusty hole was caused by muck accumulating between the top of the outrigger and the bottom of the footwell. Its about 2 inches round and seems solid all around it once the rotten stuff has been ground out. The diagonal support strut is solid. Seems a shame (and a lot of trouble) ro remove it unnecessarily. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpman Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I use duralac on non-similar metals, especially hannibal rack grub screws - works a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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