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Salisbury axle rebuild and diff swap


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Mods feel free to move if you think it needs it - I couldn't decide whether it was a defender thread or a series thread....

So...my Easter was to be spent rebuilding the Salisbury axle...yeah like that was going to happen! Its proving to be an absolute pig.....fitting new bearings I've no worries about, we've a bearing heater at work so I'll have no problems expanding them, dropping them on, and away we go. Getting the old ones off however.......

Farcebook-er's will have already seen this...

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Pinion inner bearing completely destroyed..cause unknown. I haven't yet worked out how this was locking up one side of the axle but it appears to be the culprit and not the brakes as I had been thinking.

So now's a good a time as any to fit the 3.54:1 diff from a 110 Salisbury that will then match the gearbox and engine. My method will be to remove the bearings from the series diff and extract the shims, then fit these to the 110 diff with new bearings and drop it in to the series case.

And so began the troubles....

So far all my bearing pullers have failed, either to fit in the first place or to get the bearings off, even a trip to Machine Mart with Aubyn and a VAT card didn't produce results. In the end I've been to work this morning armed with David's workshop manual in my head and I've started making versions of the LR special tools for the job....

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After 3 days I've succeeded in getting the inner bearing off the series pinion - pointless exercise except it gives me a chance to prove a method without buggering up the new parts - and I've got the bearing off the crown-wheel side of the diff and extracted the shims, although I think I might be wise ordering new ones the same thickness as the edge got a little curly. I can't see how the LR tool works exactly as it pulls the bearing off in one piece, but appears to use the rollers to do it, which I think is bound to kill it. As these bearings are dead and with luck I'm not going through the whole exercise of setting it up this method will do, you just have to cut the cage before you start. Typically, the bearing on the 110 pinion has a narrower track, so I'll now have to thin down the tool to get that one off.

Oh, and my 20t press only just got it off!

Many thanks to Nick and others for the advice so far given.

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Now you know why we hate Salisburys .... :rofl:

Steve has a nervous twitch if he hears the words 'Rebuild' and 'Salisbury' in the same sentence.

Nice work,....you have no idea of the unbridled "Fun" tou may have to come :D ...........

Nige

Agreed. I've done three Salisbury axles. One on a course. Two at work. I promised myself I would never do another one.

They seem so, so easy when an instructor is there. Not so good on your own.

I admire you for doing your own.

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Ok, so I may have been a little hasty in writing off the bearing pullers :blush: I've just spent a half hour in the workshop kicking around waiting to go to work (I hate Late Shift...can't really get in to anything...) and I've now got the bearings off both diffs.... Destroying the cage's was required but they're off.

Bung with a cone for the puller to work in....

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Use the 6" Puller to break the cage...

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Absolutly essential to count out every single roller...they do drop in the middle and it will go bang!

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Use the 4" puller to pull the inner off....I was afraid to use this one yesterday, thinking so much force had been required I was only going to break it, but the 6" puller got the one of the crown-wheel side without much of a fight so I relented. The 6" legs wouldn't fit in the groove this side but the 4" did..and away it went. I was about to go back to the 6" puller at this point as it had got really tight, but I thought I'd just try a little more and with another turn it popped away...

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Keeping track!!

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I'll modify my special tool and get the inner track off the 3.54 pinion - still only way I've got of doing that save grinder - then we're looking at refitting bearings...that at least will be easy, just need to clean everything and check the shim conditions, oh and I still need to clean out the case and recover the shims and outer cups from that.

I might actually make the special tools for inserting the new bits too...

Mikey I've tried to avoid the grinder so far, last thing I want to do is slip and bugger it up!

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The good news is the inner pinion bearing came off the 3.54 pinion quite easily after I'd modified my tool to fit the slightly narrower bearing. I can only assume that the ones on the 4.7 diff had been on there so long they were quite comfortable where they were thank you very much!

I've given the pinion a good clean, so tonight I'll fit the bearing (607180). Warm up to 90 Celsius and it should just drop straight on, then with luck tomorrow I can clean out the casing and extract the outer race and the seal and other bearing that's still in there, and begin the refitting process.

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:huh:I am following this post closely as I am having the same problem with my 99 MY defender 110. Friends tell me it is not rocket science fixing this but I dread the thought of it. I have checked and got a refurbed part for a lump sum of (and I quote from the mail)

£ 662,50 - Axel with disk

£ 300,00 - Surcharge for Axel (and we must recieve the old axel - a so called like for like and in functioning order)

£ 175,00 - Shipping cost

I lost my breath and fell over at seeing this mail. My other half commented thus - " Sell that truck. That noise under gives me the creeps" and added, " You touch a penny from our savings and there will be no food on the table for months"

:blink: :blink: :wacko: :wacko:.

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Hmm...don't like that...why would you send them a functioning axle? If it was functioning it'd still be under the truck! I imagine what they mean is an axle that can actually be rebuilt, so it's no good sending them a heavily modified axle or a salisbury that's had one of the tubes removed for example.

I'm getting in to it now, and getting a bit more confident. The new pinion inner dropped on last night, so come Monday I'll clean out the axle and remove the outer and the other bits that are in there. Then I can see about fitting the pinion and dealing with the crush tube - that's the bit that worries me at the moment.

Thanks to Nick's advice, I don't think there is any issue with doing a straight bearing swap or a ratio swap. I've studied the manuals and I've seriously thought about it, and knowing the precision to which bearings are made, I'm very confident that pulling old bearings off and fitting new will not be a problem. As long as you use the old shims exactly where they came from, what is there to change?

Changing a ring and pinion on the other hand, or starting from scratch, that does look like quite a game!

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.... for pinion bearings removal + differential bearings, I used one of these.... (upside down, flat face to bearing, just finger tight, then pressed the pinion off ... catching it before it hit the floor!)

http://www.tooled-up.com/product/sealey-bearing-separator-90-105mm/27501/?Referrer=googleproductlisting&gclid=CIy9scyW_L0CFUP3wgodjHIA_A

SEAPS988.V2.jpg?Size=500

To get them back on, I used the old bearing race (the one that interference fits on the pinion / differential), and cut it in half to use it upside down so it sat face to face with the new bearings whilst I pressed them on using the workshop press (20t). then no damage was done to the new bearing, it's cage etc.

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This just took a turn to the hmmmmm stage....

First surprise today, took some old petrol to the inside of the case and look what happened....

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Its actually red inside! I'd seen a few red painted casings while studying, but assumed they'd been painted by the owners during rebuild, turns out not!

Second surprise, the inner bearing outer cup was loose in the case across two opposite sides, not sure that's good at all. When I fit taper roller bearings into a gearbox at work, the outer cup usually is loose, but reading the manual for the Salisbury I'd assumed it wasn't - it talks of using a puller to fit it, although that could just be to aid fitting squarely.

The bad news though, this is what I cleaned out of it....

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The shims for the inner bearing are totally trashed. I could probably have a stab at measruing them and working out what was in there but I don't think that's sensible to be honest, new shims and setting out properly would be better.

It has left me at a bit of a crossroads though. I have a stage 1 V8 axle which I was going to use on my project 109, that is already 3.54:1. The condition of that is totally unknown, it's been stood for a long time so it will need new bearings to start with. As that's on the patio and probably easier to work with, I'm wondering whether I should stop work on this axle, re-furb the Stage 1, and then swap axles. I can rebuild this axle then for the project, assuming it's servicable. I need to check the bearing cup and the casing to make sure the casing is still round, if the bearing has trashed the seat then the case is scrap.

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Additional : popped the cover off the Stage 1 axle and all seems better than I'd hoped - its still full of oil! I didn't think there was any in it and I was worried about rust on everything but as luck would have it there's just a tiny spot on the inside of the cover, which I'll swap out for the galv one anyway. I think it might be wisest to swap the bearings in this one, maybe fit the 110 diff too as I've already fitted the pinion bearing, and swap the whole axle between the stub shafts, which leaves the brakes undisturbed now we've got them working at last!

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I've started work on the Stage 1 axle this morning so there will be a delay of a few days while I attack it with the wire brush and paint - since it's out I might as well and it won't do any harm. Not decided yet which diff will be used, I can worry about that when the case its ready for it. At least with it off the vehicle I hope it'll be fairly easy to do the crush tube - reminds me, must go check my torque wrench goes high enough.

Stupid question, seals do go in lip first don't they?

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The photo may be misleading me, but it looks like you have a crack from seven o'clock running down and a little to the left, and quite possibly extending up nearly vertically from the 9 o'clock position of the bearing seat. That would explain the loose bearing race and the damage to the shims. I suspect the casing is now scrap. I doubt you can save anything other than the half shafts, hubs and brake parts. Sorry.

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Lip to the oil. Had a durr moment, and I've just realised that some drawings at work show some seals the wrong way round, but thats another matter.

Did some more cleaning on the V8 axle this morning, much use of angle grinder wire brushes - full safety equipment if you please and keep the dog inside for the duration. Painted what I'd cleaned as the forecast isn't brill for tomorrow.

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I haven't found an axle number yet, the only thing so far is this on the n/s of the back face...

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No idea what any of that means?

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