mudmagnet Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I have a problem with the immobiliser and after reading the definitive alarm spider thread I'm not sure where it is I have a 300tdi auto and I'm wondering if I have to remove the centre dash or if it's behind the glove box and what is it I'm looking for It's a N reg 95 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 The spider is under the radio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Chances are it wont have a spider.If its a fly by wire auto,which by N reg it should be then the immobilisation is done in the engine ecu via a coded signal between it and the alarm ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 So unless i can get a new ecu i may as well scrap the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fireblade7 Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 i had a 300 tdi auto i was breaking and the alarm immobiliser was in the pasengers side footwell beside relays ect i also have the green alarm immobi box and pod for sale if needed mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 Absolutely not ! Why scrap a perfectly good car for what need only be a small problem ? Can you please give more background info to the original issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 Car suddenly lost power and wouldn't restart even after using the remote to lock and unlock it But a few hours later I managed to get it restarted first by putting a wire from the battery to the switch wire contact on the starter solenoid then after that it starts Ok but the recovery man said it's showing up on his diagnosis as immobiliser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 OK,so can you confirm if its an EDC equipped car,if it is then its more likely a low voltage problem than immobilisation.(Or it wouldn't start by jumping direct across the starter.) I wouldn't take too much notice of a wrecker truck drivers diagnosis - their diagnosis on earlier LR products is rarely accurate... If you are not to conversant with LR electrics I'd advise you find a decent local independent LR specialist to sort it for you. Both mechanical and EDC D1's are in the most part very reliable in terms of electrics,sorting it shouldn't be too hard or expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 It is edc. Problem is that the car started and run fine then just cut out while driving and wouldn't restart but would a few hours later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Do you know a good local indy ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 mudmagnet, where are you based? If your local i'll gladly take a look for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 I'm in Farnborough Hampshire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Mills Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 If the engine cuts when its been running for a while, that is a symptom of the bad solder joint in the box under the radio. Use a jump wire to prove it, pull off the spade on the fuel shut off solenoid and loop it to the battery positive. If the engine will start again then its definitely the solder joint. Open the box and its obvious, its the big lug on the relay in the middle, the manufacturing process is to flow solder the board and it doesn't heat up this lug enough to make a perfect joint. The same style of relay is used in tumble driers and washing machines and also suffers exactly the same problem. Buying A soldering iron is cheaper than a new unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 If the engine cuts when its been running for a while, that is a symptom of the bad solder joint in the box under the radio. Use a jump wire to prove it, pull off the spade on the fuel shut off solenoid and loop it to the battery positive. If the engine will start again then its definitely the solder joint. Open the box and its obvious, its the big lug on the relay in the middle, the manufacturing process is to flow solder the board and it doesn't heat up this lug enough to make a perfect joint. The same style of relay is used in tumble driers and washing machines and also suffers exactly the same problem. Buying A soldering iron is cheaper than a new unit. Good advice,but not in this case - Its an EDC fuelled car,which doesnt have the smart spider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangover Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 i had a 300 tdi auto i was breaking and the alarm immobiliser was in the pasengers side footwell beside relays ect i also have the green alarm immobi box and pod for sale if needed mike Old post but having just spent the last couple of hours removing the dash and not finding the spider i'm at a loss, my disco is a Jan 98 build tdi auto and not an EDC version. I have located the green alarm box in the passenger footwell as you pointed out and also a blaxk box above it with 2 plugs, is the spider intergrated into the alarm and this model or still a seperate unit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I suppose its too obvious to see if the ignition lockout switch on the gearbox is defective ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Hangover, Bridge out connections 10 and 11 on the "green alarm box" with a bent cut down paper clip, insulate it with some heat shrink if you have some, this will effectivly by-pass the alarm cut-out circuit, if it solves the problem, and seeing as you're in Melbourne give me a call 0497 792 357 before Thursday 23rd of this month and I'll post you my old one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangover Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Thanks for the offer Boydie, i should add that i have been using a bypass switch direct from battery to solenoid for the last 2 years and just getting around to repairing those dry solder joints that causes this issue. I have told by another aussie that in his 99 plated D1 the spider is behind the passenger kick panel so i'll check that out before going further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangover Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Well no spider hiding in the kick panel, is it poosible that they wer intergrated into the alarm unit in later models ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 No, the unit you should be looking for is only accessable if you remove the glove box (four 8mm head screws retaining the two hinges) you will then see a small plate holding several relays and the immobiliser unit, this is hinged and held up with a 12mm head nut, when this plate drops down you will see the unit. There is a "cardboard" cover concealing this in the passenger footwell, this is retained by several plastic studs, a forked tool is needed to pop them out and at the very back, under the fan a larger plastic screw, once this and the glove box are removed all will be revealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangover Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 No, the unit you should be looking for is only accessable if you remove the glove box (four 8mm head screws retaining the two hinges) you will then see a small plate holding several relays and the immobiliser unit, this is hinged and held up with a 12mm head nut, when this plate drops down you will see the unit. There is a "cardboard" cover concealing this in the passenger footwell, this is retained by several plastic studs, a forked tool is needed to pop them out and at the very back, under the fan a larger plastic screw, once this and the glove box are removed all will be revealed. Is it on the same plate that holds the alarm module ?, i can see another black box but it has 2 multi plugs where as all the spiders i have seen have only one. I'll pull the glove box out and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangover Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Ok, culprit is located and on the desk ready for the bypass but i dont see any numbering so how does one locate 10 & 11 to bridge ? As an fyi the other black box mentioned above is the window lift ECU so i removed it and fixed the 1 dry joint that prevented the rear windows from operating untill the ecu warmed up and made contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangover Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Bridged 10 & 11 but no change, now it is 10 & 11 on the grey plug and not the greem one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 I'm sure its the grey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Out of interest how many wires go down to the stop solenoid on the injector pump ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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