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Saved by the bell (light)


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Hi - now had chance to write a post how we fitted the kit to the car

See the photos - all very nice and simple with the help of my mechanic friend - photos show the new expansion lid and connections (remember to snip off the circle connectors that come on the alarm kit and fit female spade connectors so that they can connect to the float lid)

Then the wiring goes to the back off the dash, picks up power from the ignition contact and the warning light, test button are nice and obvious between the 12v and rear wiper buttons - the buzzer is hidden away behind

Very re-assuring to have it in place - of course I still carry out a visual check every week as well ;)

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Thinking of fitting one of these after reading this thread.

Is there any reason why the kit that jbs and markoteal have used could be wired into the instrument panel. So instead of using the bulb supplied, its on a spare light on the instrument panel?

So all i need is that kit off ebay, and a range rover coolant cap for a successful low coolant alarm?

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Hi Souster-yes thats all I used and I'm sure you could do this-use the brake warning light for example, my LED light is drilled through the dash clock panel so it sits facing me in between the clocks-Speedo and temperature gauge It's a 3mm hole and the buzzer sits under the lip of the clock binnacle where the vents are as that allows any noise from the buzzer to be heard, the self test button is drilled through on the bottom of the binnacle where it's easy access and yes even at motorway speeds you can self test it and hear it too

John

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Thinking of fitting one of these after reading this thread.

Is there any reason why the kit that jbs and markoteal have used could be wired into the instrument panel. So instead of using the bulb supplied, its on a spare light on the instrument panel?

So all i need is that kit off ebay, and a range rover coolant cap for a successful low coolant alarm?

Please read my original reply. Then read the link I posted..http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=10972&highlight=300tdi+collant+level+switch

Then you might understand why there was a proper module made to use either the Range Rover or the Discovery header tank switch.

Believe me a lot of us tried various methods. It wasn't until Tim, who made the module, that we had a usable and safe system. The other method it to find a supplier in either Aus or ZA and use that.

The wiring diagram for that module is available.

I've never found the need for a buzzer. I watch my instruments and can easily see the warning light on my coolant temperature gauge

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Please read my original reply. Then read the link I posted..http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=10972&highlight=300tdi+collant+level+switch

Then you might understand why there was a proper module made to use either the Range Rover or the Discovery header tank switch.

Believe me a lot of us tried various methods. It wasn't until Tim, who made the module, that we had a usable and safe system. The other method it to find a supplier in either Aus or ZA and use that.

The wiring diagram for that module is available.

I've never found the need for a buzzer. I watch my instruments and can easily see the warning light on my coolant temperature gauge

Ive had a good read again of this thread and the difflock thread in your reply. Its confused my non electrical mind haha.

I understand tims module is specifically made to suit the RRC cap. But what is the difference between that and the one on ebay? Unfortunatley im not very electrically minded, so appologies for the potentially daft questions.

Ideally I'd like to fit one, that uses the existing lights on the instrument panel (a spare one) and i rocker switch next to the hazard switch lets say. Just so it looks as original as possible. I realise Ralph has done similar, but it all looks abit too technical for me, and has confused me with resistors etc. I also need plug and play

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Ive had a good read again of this thread and the difflock thread in your reply. Its confused my non electrical mind haha.

I understand tims module is specifically made to suit the RRC cap. But what is the difference between that and the one on ebay? Unfortunatley im not very electrically minded, so appologies for the potentially daft questions.

Ideally I'd like to fit one, that uses the existing lights on the instrument panel (a spare one) and i rocker switch next to the hazard switch lets say. Just so it looks as original as possible. I realise Ralph has done similar, but it all looks abit too technical for me, and has confused me with resistors etc. I also need plug and play

You haven't read the link correctly.

Tim who made the module uses a Discovery cap. I use a Range Rover cap because I have an aluminium header tank. Both caps work the same.

Get the module. Get some colour coded wire. Once you have the module in your hand, everything will be clear. It's now some years since I fitted mine..

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a0nh.jpg

Here's my instrument panel. You'll notice even with an open steering wheel the bottom row of warning lights are sometimes covered.

Above and to the right of the temperature gauge, yellow low level warning light, to the bottom right of gauge the test button to checl full level, to the left bottom, green light, test full light, to the left at the top the gauge warning light for high temperature.

Yes Les. I couldn't be bothered to make one, it was cheap enough to buy. Yes I'm lazy in my old age

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I used the module from Tim on the Difflock thread & have the RRC float unit for my 1989 110 200tdi engine, my low coolant level light is the amber water in fuel on my td5 warning light panel & the safe coolant level is the green led in the module, works fine for me.

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