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Volvo C303 Overlander Build


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On 9/14/2016 at 10:41 AM, Tobias said:

Care to explain why you need two MadMans?

Too many things for one, also being able to see 2 key readings at the same time e.g. water temp and EGT.
Number 1 has:
- Oil Pressure
- Coolant temp
- Air temp
- Relay controls radiator fan

Number 2 has:
- Boost pressure
- Intercooler temp
- EGT
- Relay controls intercooler fans

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 6/13/2016 at 8:03 PM, landroversforever said:

What if the windows were on the top section? They'd still be secure when the roof is down.... But they'd be vulnerable to damage.

Yeah i might do that, it would put the windows at a better height inside (head rather than crotch)

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Well it moves... A short lap of the garage was achieved last night. Gearbox & controller behaving. No leaks. I need to reduce the PS pump pressure - Merc puts out 115 bar and my GM700 steering box i think is rated for 75, nothing blew but a quick cut of the spring will sort that.

Still lots to do, but i think i deserved the morale boost of seeing it move for the first time in 2 years.

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38 minutes ago, HoSS said:

Well it moves... A short lap of the garage was achieved last night. Gearbox & controller behaving. No leaks. I need to reduce the PS pump pressure - Merc puts out 115 bar and my GM700 steering box i think is rated for 75, nothing blew but a quick cut of the spring will sort that.

Still lots to do, but i think i deserved the morale boost of seeing it move for the first time in 2 years.

Great to hear that HoSS! :D But where is the video proof? :P

 

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11 hours ago, HoSS said:

Well it moves... A short lap of the garage was achieved last night. Gearbox & controller behaving. No leaks. I need to reduce the PS pump pressure - Merc puts out 115 bar and my GM700 steering box i think is rated for 75, nothing blew but a quick cut of the spring will sort that.

Still lots to do, but i think i deserved the morale boost of seeing it move for the first time in 2 years.

Congratulations HoSS!!  Did you end up raising the motor to get more sump/axle clearance or is that a job for later?  And yes please post a video of its first burnout:)

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On 26/10/2016 at 1:21 PM, landroversforever said:

Great to hear that HoSS! :D But where is the video proof? :P

I took a clip earlier, will post it when i work out how to edit and upload.

I put the spacers under my engine mounts, now have a lot more clearance to the front axle, but my PS pump pulley is not 5mm from the body. So i'll have to go back down a little or move the PS pump (not easy).

So whats the best way to check axle articulation without removing the springs?

Thinking out loud.....
I certainly have more clearance vertically, about 100-150mm from sump to axle. And the bump stop gap is only about 50mm. But i'd like to be a bit more scientific to be sure they wont meet, and to see how much i can drop the engine down a little (PS Pump).
Jacking one wheel up is not going to represent the shock loading travel, but i guess it gives an idea which way things are moving...

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HoSS

is it possible to modify the side of the engine compartment to give you a little more space for the PS pump without encroaching into the footwell too much?  I know the MB engine mounts are quite flexi so a bit more space may be available that way rather than lowering the motor again.

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Just taken some measurements.
Diff to sump (nearest point) = 100mm 
Bump stop gap = 40mm
If no bump rubber = 100mm

What do you think? Drop a bit..20mm?
The bumps wont compress 100%, but i guess if one drops off....

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But this is expedition not winch challenge racer right? How hard are you planning on pushing it? You've got to go easy to make sure it's going to get you home right? So in that case you shouldn't be hitting the stops anyway?

Obviously it's better to have a bigger gap so you don't smash the sump when your driving tired in the dark and don't see something but if it causes problems elsewhere how much are you prepared to risk? Could you guard the sump or whatever? Or a none deformable bump stop slightly higher? Or hack a bit of space around the pas pump?

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Sure, but as you say if i mess up somewhere remote and put a hole in the sump im screwed. In an winch challenge i trailer it home. Its actually more critical.
Thats really my question - whats the compromise between squashing the motor in and a safe gap. My thoughts are 50% bump stop compression, but i'm looking for advice.

I could guard the sump, but thats effectively reducing the clearance and no guarantees that clouting the guard wont damage what its mounted to which would be the Alu block.

I've already moved the PAS pump in as far as i can. I can cut the body but its close to a support member and i dont really want to as it will weaken the cab. If the advice is maintain the gap of 100mm (no bump stop) then i'm inclined to relocate the PS pump somewhere else....not easy but possible

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Ok a small video of movement. Yes, the rattle you hear while pulling away is the PS pump pulley on the body.
for anyone that knows these Merc engines, i'd be interested what you think of the idle sound, it sounds clacky to me, and pretty sure it didnt do that when in the e300 (although it was more enclosed/ soundproofed in  there)

Video proof

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5 hours ago, HoSS said:

Ok a small video of movement. Yes, the rattle you hear while pulling away is the PS pump pulley on the body.
for anyone that knows these Merc engines, i'd be interested what you think of the idle sound, it sounds clacky to me, and pretty sure it didnt do that when in the e300 (although it was more enclosed/ soundproofed in  there)

Video proof

Did you use the mecedes engine support ?

check the serpentine tensionner shock ,the shock itself is fine but the bushing goes wrong .

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