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Volvo C303 Overlander Build


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On 02/11/2014 at 7:49 PM, HoSS said:

A bit of an overdue update. Have done the following stuff:

- Painted and fitted the upper cab

- Started on the rewiring

- Made new dash & switch panels

- Constructed a battery & compressor box

- Cab latch and support frame made

Pics below:

Cab top fitted

IMG_0212Medium_zps7a933ae8.jpg

A nice set of new wooden bump strips

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Comfy Audi seats, and the new dash panels

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Auto shifter, hi/low, and difflock controls. Gauges are Vac & OBA pressure.

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It's alive!!

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Dual battery and compressor box

IMG_0216Medium_zps5f20b777.jpg

An Iveco cab latch and support frame

IMG_0215Medium_zpsc07e7635.jpg

What's the make model of you oba and vac gauges. 

Cheers

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On 4 November 2016 at 9:59 PM, HoSS said:

Mk2 (non-wonky) spud shaft done and ready to go in.
 

20161104_114920 (Medium).jpg

Looks great HoSS, want to make me one too?  Did you buy that DIN shaft from SPHP in Italy? I'm finding it really hard to get an answer out of them about buying a shaft to make my adaptor between the MB auto and the Volvo TC

Cheers 

Nick

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I tried SPHP too they never replied. But good news Flowfit have it in stock www.flowfitonline.com. You will have to mail them as its not shown on the website.
01-14008 20TTH 40X36 SPLINED BAR 50 GBP for a 200mm bar.

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Bump. Update? Summer's over here ;)  How's that spud shaft holding up? I'm concerned about the weld on the yoke. (been there, done that). had 1040 yokes & 4140 60mm thickwall machined tube replaced my propshaft on the 124 coupe. No breakies now.  centre uni uprated to spicer 1350. (can't fit anything bigger in the transmission tunnel). 

I'm sure you have it sorted, just keep an eye out for fatigue on the root of the weld on the 3 fingers. The 722.6 clutches should take most of the shock out anyway.

:D 

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On ‎18‎-‎7‎-‎2017 at 0:53 PM, HoSS said:

Apologie that the photos have disappeared. Photobucket now want 40 quid a month for 3rd party hosting, yeah right.. I'll have to re-link all the photos.

 

Great, those disappearing pics from those buckets and shacks  :-/

Lot's of wasted topics all over the www :-S

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On 29/06/2014 at 3:25 PM, HoSS said:

I'm getting closer to getting this running with the electronic IP & ECU. Apparently its possible with a small mod to the ECU to emulate the key module. Then it should run standalone. Others have done it, i'm not the first.

I've also discovered that i can fit an oil pump & sump from a OM648 (W211) which has the low part at the rear and give me more clearance over the axle.

Any info on how you did the ECU mod, like a link! And have you upped the output of the engine? I'd like to drop an OM605/6 in my classic, and if I can get 200-250 bhp via an ECU it would possibly save some dosh!!

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Hey Hoss any updates to this?  I just now am getting ready to test fit the om648 in my c304!  I need pics of your engine placement to help! haha.  I will most likely be cutting out the vacuum tank to make room for the LT230 transfer case.

 

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On 2/13/2019 at 12:37 AM, tmoney said:

Hey Hoss any updates to this?  I just now am getting ready to test fit the om648 in my c304!  I need pics of your engine placement to help! haha.  I will most likely be cutting out the vacuum tank to make room for the LT230 transfer case.

 

We need a build thread of yours too.

Mike

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Sadly i dont have much more on position than already posted here.

I did have to move the engine up by about 50mm as i discovered the diff was too close to the sump front/alternator on articulation. Watch out for that.

And i had to change the oil pump / sump to the rear sump type to clear.

IMG_0179.jpg

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20151011_121032.jpg

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Yes my motor is the om648 so its already got the rear sump.  do you know how much it articulates?  Thats one thing I am worried about with the current motor position I have.  I just measured from axle to bump stops then made sure I had at least that between the diff and the oil pan.  

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2 hours ago, tmoney said:

Yes my motor is the om648 so its already got the rear sump.  do you know how much it articulates?  Thats one thing I am worried about with the current motor position I have.  I just measured from axle to bump stops then made sure I had at least that between the diff and the oil pan.  

When I did mine I took off the bump stops to give me a worst case scenario.  I do that on pretty much everything I put an engine in just to know there wont be any mistakes. On articulation the axle can only go down from there.

I’d be really interested in your build thread too.

DF102761-519C-4FD6-97E8-FFC79214ABE6.jpeg

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