chuff Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Hi 300 non edc Turbo used to spool up like nobodys business, then over the course of a long drive it started dying, until it became a 2.25 na. Tank sender elbows cleaned and checked. Sedimenter cleaned and checked. Filter replaced with a Coopers. New Quinton Hasel lift pump. Recon injection pump. 4 new injectors. New turbo boost pipe - (to top of injection pump). New wastegate hose. Checked turbo hoses The wastegate arm is attached and snaps back freely New airfilter No audible manifold gasket 'tick' Impeller wheel free and with acceptable float Tappets set. No whistle or noise from hoses or intercooler. Fuel lines blown through with compressed air. I will not be defeated by this damn thing! Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 do you have a gauge fitted? have you checked for oil in the intake system? and does the tubo shaft have any endfloat? (it will have a small amount of up/down and side-side play as the shaft is supported oil pressure bearings) is it smoking at all? are the turbo hoses internaly delaminating, and collapsing therefore blocking flow through from turbo - manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuff Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 No gauge. Acceptable endfloat. No oil passing into intake - clean finger if poked inside intake! Zero smoke under any load. I havent checked the hoses internally due to no smoke, but will check them tomorrow. I dont have diesel bug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Check the throttle cable has not adjusted itself to be far too loose! If the pedal has a stop bolt under it, that can be another culprit. Basically you don't get full throttle travel at the pump, so you don't get full power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Without a boost guage you can only guess at what is going on, to my mind it's an essential bit of kit, but have you cleaned out the intercooler? even a slight oil film in the matrix can reduce the turbo efficiency, check that the cooling fins are clear and air flow through the intercooler is un-impeaded by dirt, if you're just pumping over-heated air into the engine you may as well toss the intercooler away. the other area to look at is the diaphram in the Fuel Injection Pump, if its worn or stretched the turbo will not be able to "dial up" the correct injected fuel quantity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 You have not done a compression test yet. You have not checked timing yet, when was the recon pump fitted? before the problem started or after? Was the pump flage fitted and tightened propperly before the timing gear was fitted? How is the exhaust? not busy getting blocked by a collapsing silincer? Has she overheated? Have you actually sucked on the turbo boost pipe that goes to the top of the fuel pump to confirm no leak exists in the line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuff Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 Cheers for the replies! Just had another look at it, all turbo hoses in good order, removed cleaned and checked in daylight. Intercooler flushed out with brake cleaner, very little dirt inside. Gave a good blow / suck on the boost pipe and all is correct. The diaphram will hold vacume indefinately. I set the timing when i fitted the pump, until it knocked nicely with no smoke. The exhaust is a good shout, i will have it off tomorrow and have an eyeball down it. I will also compression test it, good idea. Will see what pressure the turbo is kicking out aswell. And no its never overheated, 105 000 on the clock. I recond the pump as the 'on boost' delivery pin was sticking. The fuel pin is rotated to give max fuel and the star wheel is wound right in but it still makes no difference what position they are in, no smoke atall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuff Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 Spent another 4 hours on this just now. Ran new tempory fuel lines, checked the exhaust for blockage and set the throttle cable with no slack and allowing movement form stop to stop. Guess what, no change. Timing cover off, cam, crank and pump timing marks checked and flywheel mark checked, all perfect. Coolant tested for exhaust gas - none present, compression tested and all 4 are very consistent. Just about had enough, so checked the AFC diaphram one more time - odd result, rotating the pin stalls the engine? Something is out of kilter in there. Though i cant see how the pin has anthing to do with idle. pin in least aggressive position, engine barely running and throttle position has no effect. Most aggressive position and throttle works but no black smoke and weak turbo. I shall call the pump people tomorrow and see what they think. A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_90 Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Try taking you're fuel stop solenoid out and checking the rubber plunger hasn't broken up slightly and gone into the pump. I've experienced this myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marten Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Your scenario is painfully familiar to me. In my case the loss of power was a worn Injection Pump, but I suspected the Turbo initially and followed your path almost exactly. I would certainly look hard at the "reconditioned" fuel injection pump if you are low on power, but the turbo pressure is fed to the pump so a leaking top diaphragm, or a leaky turbo boost pipe, are the only things to influence turbo efficiency . If you haven't already done so, measure the turbo pressure. I cut a spare turbo boost pipe hose in half and fitted a washer system plastic tee. Used clear plastic washer pipe into the cabin via a window and fitted a simple 0-20 psig gauge. The book says 11psi driving up an incline at full throttle. In practice it will become immediately obvious if the boost pressure is low. My 250k original fit turbo produces 11 - 12 psi over 2500 engine rpm at less than maximum throttle on a level road. You don't say why you changed the fuel lift pump, or in what order the parts exchange and power loss occurred. My lift pump inlet non-return valve failed, starving the injection pump of (lubricating) fuel over a relatively short period of time. The alloy pump body was severely worn by moving, and un-lubricated, steel parts. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Your turbo won't make boost if you haven't got fuel. If you've got a fuel problem then you're barking up the wrong tree with the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_90 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Your turbo won't make boost if you haven't got fuel. If you've got a fuel problem then you're barking up the wrong tree with the turbo. Totally agree. It sounds like a fuel issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I have had similar issues. It's the injection pump. Diesel Bob Tuning did mine and I have been very pleased with them since. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I have a similar problem with my 300tdi when I picked it up it would not accelerate although once out on the road it would cruise at 70-80 I found that the lift pump shaft had lost it's washer off the bottom and thought it was the problem. Since changing, it has improved but is still sluggish. I have adjusted the fip but still not much better, as I can't make it smoke much I assume it must be a fuel problem not air. As it is only a toy and is still running I haven't delved further, so will follow this with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuff Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Hi Interesting to see other people have had similar issues! Im away for a week now, but will have the pump re-calibrated when i get back. Its a little depressing spending £700 on it and finding its the same as before! Daily driver aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Might be of some use... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=85023&hl= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuff Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Finally got round to removing the pump again! The pump man said that there was nothing wrong with it when he tested it on the bench. Strange, as the car is finally back to how it should be. Spools up nice and a slight haze under WOT. So what was wrong is anybodys guess? Only thing I noticed is I had not removed the old pump to casing gasket and then fitted a new one (idiot). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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