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TD5 head gasket check list, ordering from overseas


James NZ

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Hi. The head gasket has gone on the TD5. As I am ordering parts from the UK to be sent to me down here I want to make sure I get everything I need. So to do the head gasket I would need -

Head gasket set - getting a 3 hole one from the off
Head bolt set
LDI100030 – Front Camshaft Oil Seal
ERR5369 – Rear Camshaft Oil Seal
Locating dowels (steel ones)

Also the bl@@dy motor leaks oil from somewhere around the front and it looks like the rear main seal as well. I have read somewhere that the frost plugs are prone to rusting/leaking? So I thought that the following may be required -
Lower gasket set
Frost plugs 3 in the side and 1 in the back?
Thermostat
Pressure cap

Is there anything thing else I should look at? I don't mind pulling the engine out if need be. Timing chain, tensioners etc? The motor has done 168000km's and has been very good. Especially after it got the new injector loom, turbo hoses, radiator and most of the water hoses!

Cheers and thanks for any suggestions.
James, NZ

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Hi mate, I'm in the same boat just now (see thread top of international section).

You might want to get the timing tools, I'm told they're only £8 or so. Inlet and exhaust gaskets and cam cover gasket (depending). I'll be checking my oil cooler as even if the exchanger itself isn't corroded I've read that the o-rings on the inlet and outlet get flattened and leak just the same.

Also considering pulling the water pump to have a look.

Another thing to consider, least I am anyway - given it'll all be off anyway, I was thinking my EGR won't make it back on ;)

Can I ask you, where did you get your info about the three hole H.G. and are you skimming as a matter of course? There's so much conflicting info.

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Hiya,

Our EGR valve disappeared when I replaced the turbo hoses. But to be honest I can't really say that I noticed much difference.

Regarding head skimming, I've read that the official word is that they cant be skimmed because of surface hardening. In our situation though if the head needs a light skim it will get one, because the cost of the H.G set and bolts is cheap compared to replacing the head. So if it works, fantastic! And if it doesn't, then the cost of a cyl head here runs into thousands of $$. My understanding of the hole identification for the gasket relates to the thickness of them. And as the piston protrudes above the block then its a safer bet to get the thickest one as it takes about a week to get parts from the UK. Local prices are eye watering :wacko: and best avoided.

Thanks for the info on the oil cooler o-rings, I'll get those as well. I was also going to get the timing tools and I might price up a water pump.

Actually after re-reading the above I think I'll pull the head first and get it checked for flatness and cracks, at least I'll know where I stand then.

Cheers

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Good thinking, the water pump isn't what I'd call cheap.

Yeah I haven't seen anything about the EGR giving a noticeably different feeling to the drive, but at least it's better for the engine. Ditto regarding what you've read about skims and H.G.'s, was just hoping you might have something a little more definite. I'd really like to know I had enough H.G. but not too much. But like you say, best cross that bridge when we know what it looks like...

I won't be pulling my head until sometime in the coming week, I'll keep you posted and would be cool if you did same!

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My advice is to take it apart very carefully,clean everything - then check it all out VERY carefully.Use the workshop manual to measure the piston protusions and use the correct gasket,not just the thickest one.Dont order any parts until you are absolutely sure what you need.Having the head skimmed makes no difference to the gasket choice as long as the machine shop check and possibly adjust valve stand down.(They should have this data to hand )

Many people including garages get into serious pickles when carrying out major repairs on TD5's - which is a shame as they are no problem at all as long as you follow the correct proceedures.Apart from LR stating that heads cant be refaced,(But they said that with TDI's too) the workshop manual just needs following to the letter.

May I suggest if you are sourcing parts from the UK that you have a look at Turner Engineering's website.They offer a very good mail order service and offer a good combination of quality and price.I have no connection to them other than being a very satisfied customer on many occasions for customers engines and also last year when my own DII Td5 needed a rebuild.

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Hi guys, thanks for your replies.

Shackleton I'll update this thread when I start on it. Hopefully next weekend.

Ally V8, In the past I have dealt with Island 4x4 but will have a look at Turners and see what they have to offer.

cheers

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James I've stripped everything and have only to actually pull the head. Hesitated because I ordered the timing tool and it hasn;t arrived, but have to just go for it with a bolt or drill bit this morning.

So I have a list of the parts I'll be replacing. This list assumes buying the Turner H.G. kit which comes with inlet, exhaust and rocker cover gaskets, head bolts, H.G., injector seals & washers and head dowels.

ERR6299 - Oil Centrifuge

LPX100590 - Oil filter

LRO47208 - Air Filter

ERR6788 - Exhaust to Turbo Gasket*

ERR3737 - (ESR3674) Exhaust Gasket Turbo to Downpipe - No need to crack both turbo gaskets, the bottom one prob best.

LVJ000010 - Coolant Elbow Gasket - See below. Makes replacing broken head stud easier.

ADU6847L - Copper Washer - Turbo Oil Feed Banjo (x2)

ERR7098 - O Ring - Oil Cooler (x2)

ERR7220 - Oil Cooler Gasket

LDI1000030 - Cam Sprocket Plastic Cover - My cover was loose so needs to be replaced.

PNT1000030 - Turbo Oil Return Gasket

ERR5369 - Rear Camshaft Oil Seal

LXI100000 - Copper washer for timing chain tensioner

PEM500040 - Water Pump (from Turner at Stg£49.50)

LYG101510 - Rocker Shaft Bolt (x6)

?? - P/N for Alternator vacuum pipe to cyl head o ring?

Head Gasket Selection:

Some definitive info on the H.G. thickness. As Ally V8 (thanks for the advice mate) alludes to, the thickness is dictated by how much the tallest piston protrudes from the block at TDC. Haynes quotes these figures for selecting the gasket depending on our results:

Piston Protrusion Gasket Identification

0.351 to 0.500mm 2 Holes

0.501 to 0570mm 1 Hole

0.571 to 0.650mm 3 Holes

Now someone might help me with my decimal places (and math in general) but if I take what I've read as gospel - that is that the head can be safely skimmed up to 8 thousandths of an inch - and if 8 thou = 0.0254mm, then what should be the corrected values *IF* a head was skimmed 8 thou?

I can make a semi educated guess but I wouldn't want to expose my genius :D

Timing:

Another bit of potentially useful info I found is that it takes upwards of 20 turns of the crank for the two darkened timing chain links to realign with the mark on the sprocket when you get to that stage of reassembly. So don't give up early believing it's all wrong. They can and will come around without the sprocket mark.

Other Potential Problems:

I found that the forward most stud for my exhaust manifold was broken off in the head. Seemingly the exhaust manifolds on the Td5 like to warp. (something I was lucky to avoid on my other Td5). When they do warp it's common for them to sheer the head studs, predominantly towards the ends of the manifold. IIRC Turner Engineering do an oversized stud kit that comes with all the bits to - well make your studs bigger. You can also get a ceramic coated manifold, but as you'd imagine it's very expensive.

I also found that the ribbed plastic wiring cover for all the plugs that run across the front of the engine (water temp, MAF, A/C etc) had disintegrated and one of my wires was actually severed. I have a feeling it's for the ambient temp sensor. Do check all wiring.

It's definitely easier to strip off the oil cooler to make getting the inlet manifold off easier.

Having stripped off everything around the rhs of the engine, now's def the time to tackle the oil cooler. I'd be kicking myself if it let go later and I hadn't done it now. Same goes if anyone's considering EGR blacking, although that would only be a little more awkward if the engine wasn't stripped.

I'll be checking my PCV (the crank case breather valve), marked "TOP", as there is a lot of oil on the outside of mine. If anyone has a part number I can't find it. Here's how to check it's working:

"Removing the diaphragm if you suck and blow down the inlet from the crankcase there is no restriction, but place your thumb over the pipe that goes in to the inlet tract then suck whilst slowly removing your thumb and the valve closes off, so it works."

On that subject, there is a contraption called a Provent that you can put in place of that PCV, which will properly vent your crank case but also properly trap and return airborne oil before it gets into your turbo/intercooler/inlet.

Hope that helps. I certainly feel better for the knowledge, although today is make or break (literally) for my D2, cause I'll be F'd if I'm spending €1400 on a new head.

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Hiya Shackleton,

Thanks for the info. The reason i asked the question in the first place is that I'm an old school mechanic and when you ordered a head set then every gasket needed for the job was in that set. Times have changed. I'm at ease doing the work though and the heads up on the piston protusion is handy. I'm also a bit apprehensive about the condition of the head as a replacement would be just short of half the value of the whole car! I hope yours worked out for you :)

Hopefully I'll be pulling the head off this coming Sunday, I'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers

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Shackleton,a couple of things - First off,when the head is skimmed it wont make any difference to the head gasket needed.Its only if you skim the block face,replace pistons or rods that an engine may need a different gasket.The machine shop skimming the head should check valve stand down after skimming and recess any seats to get the correct clearance.Draw a cross-sectional view of a piston in the bore,with a head on it to get what I'm on about - trouble is most people learn about engines on petrols where the combustion chamber is in the head.Direct injection diesels like TD5's have the chamber in the crown of the piston,so have a flat head face - apart from the area where the valves sit.

With the exhaust manifold all you need to do is to have it machined flat again and then carefully cut out the webs between the ports.If it warps again your exhaust gas temps are too high or you are overloading the engine badly.

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Hi mate,

Why not buy the parts here in NZ? By the time you consider the GST and courier there really isnt that much in the price difference. Also then you can be sure of having exactly what you need rather than buying unnecessary bits and the added price of getting them here?

H

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Just back from the machine shop where I've left my cyl. head. My guy looked at the discolouration on the face and said it'll need to be skimmed. I told him he could go to 8 thou max and he said he wouldn't think it'd need that much. Also said that at that level valve stand down wouldn't be an issue or need compensating. He comes highly recommended and his outfit looks v.professional, I hope he knows what he's doing.

Here's my H.G. It looks terrible to me, I thought it'd look a lot cleaner and that the damage would be obvious. When taking the head off the bolts at either end seemed tighter than the ones in the middle. If the pics are ok I'd appreciate anyones opinion... James, Ally?

IMG_0101.jpg

IMG_0100.jpg

IMG_0099.jpg

IMG_0097.jpg

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Sorry to take so long to reply,been logging for the last two days - makes me so tired I just fall asleep when I get home !

That head gasket looks like its been over temperature,large amounts of the fire ring areas are discoloured,good signs of combustion gases escaping and burning on their way out.Dont worry too much about some bolts being harder to undo than others,thats fairly normal.What is more important is to get everything spotless before you put it together,esp the head bolt threads.A tap of the right size if poss and then airline to blow out any cr-p left in there.The more careful you are to clean,check and measure in building,the better the engine will be.

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