jameshub Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hi I have a Defender TD5, year 2000 and recently I've had some serious overheating issues. It first occurred when I was on the M25 and all of a sudden the gauge got very high so I pulled over and steam was coming out of the expansion tank. I then put 10 litres in and went on my way, which worked fine, then on the way back (so having travelled about 60 miles) the same happened again and the tank appeared to be empty again. Since then its got worse and there are no visible leaks from any pipes so I was very confused. Having taken it to the garage they have replaced the Thermostat, Water pump, heat gasket and had the head skimmed, but still the problem persists. Anyone please got any suggestions? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 You've concentrated on some very expensive engine repairs there, have you even looked at the condition of the rad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 the radiator is a bit clogged up but would this really cause that amount of water lose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 If it overheats and shoves it out the expansion tank, yes. You won't notice this while driving along most of the time. 10l is just about, if not, all of it, isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 if the plastic dowels were not replaced when doing the head, would this cause this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 so I've just been told by the garage that the bottom part of the radiator isn't getting hot any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Well it sounds like that may be the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 they are saying that if you pour water in, then water comes out the bottom, so I'm really confused now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 he has just quoted me £260 for a new radiator, but am I missing something as I believe they are about £95....? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Fitting cost I would imagine. A friend spent about £800 on a head rebuild to cure overheating troubles....turned out to be no different when it came back, as all it need was a new £100 rad..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggervan Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Sounds like rad to me so instead of letting the garage replace it why don't you get yours record and fit your self it would be cheaper and they aren't that hard to fit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 Indeed, I have ordered one for £90 and will change it Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Fingers crossed, that'll solve all the problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 unfortunately not......lot of carp came out but still blows coolant out expansion tank when you give it some reverses! maybe O rings on the fuel cooler? - or am I just grabbing at straws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 they are saying compression test showing nothing, so could be a blockage somewhere and maybe fuel cooler I'm going out of my head on this.....any further suggestions would be much appreciated before I take it to the edge of a cliff and push it off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggervan Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 So you have change water pump / rad/ head skimed/ thermostat and it still overheats now you say compression test shows nothing but if you had no compression it would not run to overheat so don't understand that one so did the garage test the head for cracks have you checked top and bottom hose and heater hose for soft spots Whitch can corse them to suck them selves in when system pressurises and does the heater get hot and you must make shore to bleed the system but while it's in bits try and flush heater matrix / engine/ oil cooler / fuel cooler and anything else connected to the cooling system with a hose pipe and see what that does Good luck bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 we had a td5 disco that over heater. bloke spent loads on head skimmed and head gasket. we did a water pump and fan and its good as new!. you issue personally sounds like a thermostat to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Have you replaced the expansion bottle cap? Often overlooked but it is an essential part of the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Have you replaced the expansion bottle cap? Often overlooked but it is an essential part of the system. He lost 10 litres though. Would you get that much loss through the cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Thermostat and water pump already replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Have you checked the core plug under the exhaust manifold for leaks? You said the pipes, but worth checking this too as it's a common leak point. The will normally be tell tale signs of evaporated coolant though. Depending on year, there is also a pipe that runs round the back of the engine to the oil cooler, but this is blanked off on later models (it was on the d2, so someone can correct me if this isn't the case on the defender), and the blanking plug can fail and leak. This is also in an awkward spot under the exhaust manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 so would you suggest taking the heater matrix out and flushing it or can I just disconnect the 2 pipes and put hose pipe down one so it comes out the other one? i'll also look at the pipes for soft points thanks for help, much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 no I've not replaced that one but I did notice the inside spring seems to be pushed over...... could that really have the result I am finding? you can drive it around normally with no problem, its just when you push it hard it comes out the expansion tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 thanks for that, i'll check the core plug its a year 2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggervan Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 When it pushes coolant out of expansion tank is hot as in steaming if not it could be the cap as suggested by dave88sw if you can not find anything else as last resorte take to old school garage and ask them to check for hydrow carbons in the water (sniff test) if there is none that means your head and it's gasket is fine and your problem lies in the (rad / w pump/ thermostat /hoses/ cap ) unlikely to be fuel or oil cooler more likely cap/ thermostat you can test thermo with boiling water in clear glass by dipping it in to see if it opens and closes properly make shore glass can take hot water as for the cap just get a good seal round it and blow if you can blow though it it's knackerd so replace it other than that I don't know just keep trying things like bleeding and flushing system out Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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