Tanuki Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Check that the small-bore plastic pipe that runs from the top of the radiator to the top of the expansion-tank is clear: if this gets blocked or restricted with rust/crud then any 'trapped wind' in the coolant will not be able to escape from the top of the radiator and back into the expansion-tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 yes its hot steam coming out but I will replace the cap anyway as they are £5 one suggestion someone has just said to me is that it could be a crack in one of the inlet ports allowing for turbo boost pressure into the coolant system when you give it max power......so, does anyone know the process followed by companies when they skim the head as I would assume they test it first to confirm no cracks, otherwise the skim will just be a complete waste of time..?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 definitely worth checking, thanks for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggervan Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Yes who ever skimed head should of checked fo cracks otherwise like you said it would of been waste of time a sniff test for hydro carbons would awnser that But if it's boiling and steaming there's a blockage or lack of circulation somewaer If it was a crack in would start to pressurise as soon as engine was running Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 well after taking it a second garage to check it they did 4 block tests which were fine and then the 5th one failed so I've been told a new engine is required.. so spent £1300 with all bit etc and it should have just be scrapped... anyone know of where to get a good recon TD5 engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Erm, take it somewhere else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggervan Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Sorry to hear that but are shore it's the block and not the head because it is very very unusual to be the block Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 how can I know if its the block or head? I'm with you on it being unlikely to be block and my suspicion is the company skimmed the head and missed a crack in one of the inlet manifolds thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 they are the only 2 garages around here unfortunately but it seems very strange you can do 5 tests and only on the 5th it fails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 is it worth getting a crack test on the block to be sure? is that expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Where are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 sorry to ask but I need to speak to the company that skimmed the head and find out what tests they did or measurements they got from reading before confirming the head was fine but just needed to be skimmed. what should I ask for to confirm this?? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Essex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 'Did you check it for cracks with a pressure test/dye test?' would do I guess. It could still have cracked since then, so hard to really nail them with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 ok but they can just say 'yes' .......is there no reading they should supply which shows it was fine or cracked? not sure I understand your last comment, the garage installed it and they drove it to find the same problem, surely it wouldn't have cracked after one drive.. why could the tests show ok and then not.......its doing my head in! thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 has anyone used K-Seal? - I'm assuming as the garages all do a number of tests with no problems and then one which fails, the crack can't be too big so I'm wondering if this would work any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 It can and has worked, I would say you only have £20 to lose. There is another about but I forget it's name at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 having looked at the colour of the liquid which came out of the old radiator, which was a rich copper colour, I suspect someone put this in to sell the vehicle to us 6 months ago, so its worth a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggervan Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 K seal or any other seal is just a bodge to sell on if you want keep Landy don't use it can you confirm what you've replaced so far because if rad/w pump /thermostat is new and hoses are good and you've flushed heater matrix/oil/fuel cooler out with hose pipe it can only be the head I would say it's almost impossible for it to be the block So if the head is of take it to an engine recon place or somewere like that and pressure test it only dye if they can warm it up If it's a 10p engine they are known for cracking 15p not so much Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Hi, at the moment I'm struggling to know what to do next. You say flush the fuel cooler, but what is the process to do this? - I can see 3 hoses connected to it, so do I just take them off, take it out and push a hose down it? - will fuel then not come out the pipes? So I took the hoses off the heater matrix and pushed a hose down one end and water came out the other, however it was water and no sign of any coolant + there is no heat in the cabin even though the system if full........clearly something isn't getting through. I have replaced; thermostat, radiator, water pump, head skimmed, oil and filters I keep being told that the place that skimmed the head did a pressure test but people are saying that this might not show up, which makes the whole testing a bit pointless. Now I'm thinking I should take the head to another company to have it tested as I need to know 100% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I found I had a blockage in the heater matrix, possible caused by K seal or similar. I flushed it out by having the hose pipe on full bore and alternating it between the two matrix pipes. A load of carp came out when doing this for about 5 mins. In relation to the fuel cooler, the water pipes are at either end. I had difficulty flushing it insitu and decided to remove it and do it on the bench which wasn't that big a job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Divster is right, fuel cooler is much easier dealt with if you remove it, you don't want to risk putting undue force on either end of it for fear of causing a leak. Remember it'll be full of fuel though, don't tip it or you'll be stinking of diesel all day. In general check all the coolant pipe work for condition and lack of blockage. Also there is a specific filling procedure for the coolant system that if not followed can leave airlocks in the system, which could explain the lack of heat in the blower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Hi, I wasn't aware of the specific filing process, could you let me know what it is? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameshub Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Should water flow at the same speed through each end of the fuel cooler or is there any valves inside which would mean its one way? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 From Haynes: Assuming everything is connected/closed/tight, slacken the bleed screw on the coolant top hose, and the one (if it's there) on the fuel cooler hose. Personally I take the bleed screws out totally. Put the heater controls to full heat. Pour in coolant until bubble/air free coolant comes out of the bleed screw(s). Then close the bleed screws. Top up the expansion tank as necessary. Btw, the fill mark isn't the rib on the tank, there's an arrow on the engine side of the tank showing the max level mark. Haynes says you should then run the car up to temp., checking for leaks etc. and that an accurate level can't be taken until the car is fully cold again. You can premix your coolant, or else pour in a few litres of water, then your undiluted coolant, then top up with more water. No idea about the flow inside the fuel cooler. Never heard of a blocked one though. If you look down this thread you'll find a schematic of the coolant flow. Will help you with the correct direction of flow through the fuel cooler... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=53078 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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