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TD5 overheating


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Check that the small-bore plastic pipe that runs from the top of the radiator to the top of the expansion-tank is clear: if this gets blocked or restricted with rust/crud then any 'trapped wind' in the coolant will not be able to escape from the top of the radiator and back into the expansion-tank.

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yes its hot steam coming out but I will replace the cap anyway as they are £5

one suggestion someone has just said to me is that it could be a crack in one of the inlet ports allowing for turbo boost pressure into the coolant system when you give it max power......so, does anyone know the process followed by companies when they skim the head as I would assume they test it first to confirm no cracks, otherwise the skim will just be a complete waste of time..??

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Yes who ever skimed head should of checked fo cracks otherwise like you said it would of been waste of time a sniff test for hydro carbons would awnser that

But if it's boiling and steaming there's a blockage or lack of circulation somewaer

If it was a crack in would start to pressurise as soon as engine was running

Bob

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well after taking it a second garage to check it they did 4 block tests which were fine and then the 5th one failed so I've been told a new engine is required..

so spent £1300 with all bit etc and it should have just be scrapped...

anyone know of where to get a good recon TD5 engine?

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sorry to ask but I need to speak to the company that skimmed the head and find out what tests they did or measurements they got from reading before confirming the head was fine but just needed to be skimmed.

what should I ask for to confirm this??

thanks

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ok but they can just say 'yes' .......is there no reading they should supply which shows it was fine or cracked?

not sure I understand your last comment, the garage installed it and they drove it to find the same problem, surely it wouldn't have cracked after one drive..

why could the tests show ok and then not.......its doing my head in!

thanks

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K seal or any other seal is just a bodge to sell on if you want keep Landy don't use it can you confirm what you've replaced so far because if rad/w pump /thermostat is new and hoses are good and you've flushed heater matrix/oil/fuel cooler out with hose pipe it can only be the head I would say it's almost impossible for it to be the block

So if the head is of take it to an engine recon place or somewere like that and pressure test it only dye if they can warm it up

If it's a 10p engine they are known for cracking 15p not so much

Bob

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Hi, at the moment I'm struggling to know what to do next.

You say flush the fuel cooler, but what is the process to do this? - I can see 3 hoses connected to it, so do I just take them off, take it out and push a hose down it? - will fuel then not come out the pipes?

So I took the hoses off the heater matrix and pushed a hose down one end and water came out the other, however it was water and no sign of any coolant + there is no heat in the cabin even though the system if full........clearly something isn't getting through.

I have replaced; thermostat, radiator, water pump, head skimmed, oil and filters

I keep being told that the place that skimmed the head did a pressure test but people are saying that this might not show up, which makes the whole testing a bit pointless.

Now I'm thinking I should take the head to another company to have it tested as I need to know 100%

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I found I had a blockage in the heater matrix, possible caused by K seal or similar. I flushed it out by having the hose pipe on full bore and alternating it between the two matrix pipes. A load of carp came out when doing this for about 5 mins. In relation to the fuel cooler, the water pipes are at either end. I had difficulty flushing it insitu and decided to remove it and do it on the bench which wasn't that big a job

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Divster is right, fuel cooler is much easier dealt with if you remove it, you don't want to risk putting undue force on either end of it for fear of causing a leak. Remember it'll be full of fuel though, don't tip it or you'll be stinking of diesel all day.

In general check all the coolant pipe work for condition and lack of blockage. Also there is a specific filling procedure for the coolant system that if not followed can leave airlocks in the system, which could explain the lack of heat in the blower.

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From Haynes: Assuming everything is connected/closed/tight, slacken the bleed screw on the coolant top hose, and the one (if it's there) on the fuel cooler hose. Personally I take the bleed screws out totally. Put the heater controls to full heat.

Pour in coolant until bubble/air free coolant comes out of the bleed screw(s). Then close the bleed screws.

Top up the expansion tank as necessary. Btw, the fill mark isn't the rib on the tank, there's an arrow on the engine side of the tank showing the max level mark.

Haynes says you should then run the car up to temp., checking for leaks etc. and that an accurate level can't be taken until the car is fully cold again.

You can premix your coolant, or else pour in a few litres of water, then your undiluted coolant, then top up with more water.

No idea about the flow inside the fuel cooler. Never heard of a blocked one though. If you look down this thread you'll find a schematic of the coolant flow. Will help you with the correct direction of flow through the fuel cooler...

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=53078

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