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TD5 overheating

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  • 2 weeks later...


Unfortunately not, I have now spoken to a number of engineer firms about a new head etc, including a long conversation with a guy at Turners who was extremely helpful, who then put me on to an engineering firm in Romford. Basically my understanding from both of them was that a pressure test might not find the issue in head as its never put under the true strain of a working engine.......confused!!

I then ask if there was any further test that could be done on the head and I was told there is a next level of testing which costs about £75 which 'should' show any issues.

The biggest issue I have is that no-one seems to worked out a test, which gives you 100% guarantee if the head is cracked or not.......so I wonder how many people have spent £100's and £1000's getting a head skimmed, only to find out that it should have been thrown away.

What am I missing??

So, I'm planning on having this test done and see what happens.

I tried K-Seal but the also pressured out the expansion tank and doesn't seem to even get round the system

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I have a feeling this is going to be one of 'those' problems....all of a sudden it'll vanish.....

The problem with replicating working conditions is that you have to include heat, power stresses from combustion and compression, alternate shocking from one end to the next, different temperatures between cooling jackets in the head and fuel ignition in the bore....the best way to do all that is to bolt it on the engine.

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  • 1 month later...

Thought I'd give an update on this. Basically its just been sitting on the drive since it was brought back 30 miles from garage......

Last weekend I decided to get a second opinion on the head and removed it, the took it to an engineering company recommended by Turners. They did a pressure test and found nothing wrong with it, however it was warped by 5'thou to the side of the inlet manifold.

I then had the block checked to see if he was flat or it was warped as this could have been the cause of the head being warped again after 30 miles!!

The block was perfectly flat.

So I ask, how could it warp 5'thou in just 30 miles? - so just to re-cap, its not overheating but its now throwing coolant out the expansion tank even when cold.

My suspicion is that either the skim was not done very well (although I have been told the engineering company is high quality) or more likely, the garage didn't use new bolts when putting the head back on.....

Any thought would be appreciated.


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Have you replaced the thermostat? and how did you fill the coolant system? It's normal for an engine to throw out coolant from cold if it has lots of trapped air, just keep topping it up and let it run until at operating temperature, continually filling the system, once the stat opens and you get full flow of coolant, you should be able to top up and expel all the air and it will stop throwing its water out. But, going back to an earlier suggestion, have you checked the small pipe from the top of the radiator back to the header tank? This is a bleed pipe that should allow any air from the coolant system to be expelled into the header tank above the level of the water so that it doesnt blow bubbles and spit water out.

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  • 1 month later...

hi all

so i thought i would add a final comment to tbis as we have finally resolved tne issue.

having got the newly skimmed head back and checking everything before fitting it was found on the side of the warp one of the bolts was cross threaded. therefore clearly the garage would did the initial work couldnt have torqued that bolt down and just left it.

this has now cost a further £700 and much inconvenience so i will be taking tbe garage to court to get this money back, after all if they had dealt with the bolt whe it had be crosss threaded then none of this would have happened.

so the TD5 runs perfectly now...

thanks for all the comments and thoughts throughout tbis tread, much appreciated

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  • 3 years later...

My td5 ( 2001) has been using significant amounts of water. No obvious leaks. But constant driving would require frequent stops to allow for cooling and then 3 or 4 litre water refill. The gauge isn’t rising above the half way mark at any of these moments and will usually rest at the below half mark for the duration after warming up. I’ve put new recommended concentrated type coolant in, but seemingly to no avail. After 15 to 20 minutes of driving I can be sure there’s been a loss of around a litre of contents,  I replaced an old top hose set up with a new one thinking I noted some loss of integrity around the hose layers. So in sum, no leaking signs, new hose, coolant added, but water disappears. Any thoughts or advice welcomed as per.

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Hi there....


Water can typically only disappear in two ways.

A physical leak that you've been investigating or into the engine some way... 

- Head Gasket leak into the cylinder(s) and burnt off as steam

- Oil cooler corroded and oil / water mixing


The second option would be very obvious by now as your engine would be overflowing with water and oil mixed.

So if there are no physical leaks to be seen, it could be the head gasket.


Someone else with additional knowledge may be along soon to offer other suggestions.



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