Alsace_rangie Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hi all, odd problem with the ignition switch. On searching this and other forums, the usual issue is the key not turning. In my case the key turns but won't stay in the "on" position. So the car starts, then seems to die. Caused a panic for my wife who was driving it when the problem started, and I was imagining blocked fuel lines or dead solenoids (diesel) etc. Anyway, easy fix is a new switch but I wondered if anyone had an idea for a "magic fix", and avoid my needing 2 keys from now on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alsace_rangie Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 Took the steering cowl off. It seems that all the positions are determined by the switch © and not in the main metal part of the barrel. When I removed the rubber insulating cap the white plastic connection part © was loose. The retaining lugs (B) were not pressed home. This was allowing the plastic part to "float". Undid the small screw (A) and took out the switch assembly. Watch out for the small ball bearing if you take it apart. all seemed OK, so put it all back together and knocked the tab a bit tighter. Now it works better (stays running) but the auto-return from the starter-motor position is weak. It seems I can get the switch part separately, so will save money and not need 2 keys ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 I had this sort of thing happen on my last classic. The switch fell apart one night on the drive so the following morning it wouldn't start. As you found, I found that a new switch was needed because even after reassembly and crimping it together better, it lost the return so the starter ran until the key was turned back a notch. You are correct, you will not need to change the barrel so you can keep the same key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alsace_rangie Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 Thanks, at least I know I'm not alone! Found that the separate switch part (i.e. no lock barrel) is no longer available, and that the whole assemble for my car is PRC8907 and that costs a lot more than the switch or later models from most suppliers. Anyway, the local 4x4 specialist had a second-hand switch in stock, but with the wrong connector. So using wire cutters, solder and heat-shrink tubing I had a working part. All mounted and back working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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