Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Alsace_rangie

Ignition Switch turning off!

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

odd problem with the ignition switch. On searching this and other forums, the usual issue is the key not turning. In my case the key turns but won't stay in the "on" position. So the car starts, then seems to die. Caused a panic for my wife who was driving it when the problem started, and I was imagining blocked fuel lines or dead solenoids (diesel) etc.

Anyway, easy fix is a new switch but I wondered if anyone had an idea for a "magic fix", and avoid my needing 2 keys from now on!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took the steering cowl off. It seems that all the positions are determined by the switch © and not in the main metal part of the barrel.

When I removed the rubber insulating cap the white plastic connection part © was loose. The retaining lugs (B) were not pressed home. This was allowing the plastic part to "float".

Undid the small screw (A) and took out the switch assembly. Watch out for the small ball bearing if you take it apart. all seemed OK, so put it all back together and knocked the tab a bit tighter.

Now it works better (stays running) but the auto-return from the starter-motor position is weak. It seems I can get the switch part separately, so will save money and not need 2 keys !

post-17102-0-00859500-1403174533_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had this sort of thing happen on my last classic. The switch fell apart one night on the drive so the following morning it wouldn't start. As you found, I found that a new switch was needed because even after reassembly and crimping it together better, it lost the return so the starter ran until the key was turned back a notch.

You are correct, you will not need to change the barrel so you can keep the same key.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, at least I know I'm not alone!

Found that the separate switch part (i.e. no lock barrel) is no longer available, and that the whole assemble for my car is PRC8907 and that costs a lot more than the switch or later models from most suppliers.

Anyway, the local 4x4 specialist had a second-hand switch in stock, but with the wrong connector. So using wire cutters, solder and heat-shrink tubing I had a working part.

All mounted and back working

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy