reb78 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 My body cappings have irritated me for quite a while. The corner pieces are getting pretty rusty and they are a source of one of the many leaks. Looking around, there appear to be two types for the 110 CSW - i think dependent on age? There seems to be a one piece section and also a two piece where the rear corners are separate from the long side section. Mine has the two piece where the corner section is separate and its only the corners on mine that are rotten. With this in mind, would you just replace the corner sections, or is there a massive advantage over the one piece part? Is it easier to replace the corner alone or does it still require lifting the whole roof?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 On a Series at least I think you'd get away with without lifting the roof off completely, but I think you'd have to loose everything off. You'd definitely have to lift the roof to get the long side pieces off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 I'm worried about all those old seals that are going to break as i lift things! I can just see me chasing leaks for ages afterwards! I've found some one piece galv cappings for a 110 SW on ebay. I might just go for those and do the lot. The headlining is out at the moment so it seems an opportune time to do it, it just lengthens the time its in bits though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 The corner alone is easy to replace, you should be able to do it by slackening the roof off at the rear and using a high-lift in the rear door aperture. It took a bit of juggling on the 90 to get the corner to align with the forward part running to the front doors. Some small washers between the capping and the tub soon sorted that. Yours may be easier to align because they will be sandwhiched between the hardtop side and the tub, I have a soft top so that wasn't possible. Taking the roof off would probably be the only way for 1 piece cappings because you will need the space to drill the rivets on the top of the capping. If you are going to the hassle of doing it, then definitely go for galv versions New seals and liberal use of silicone/dum dum putty should keep it nice and dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 I went for a set of these in the end: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171371227542?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 The price seemed comparable with YRM who were out of stock. The guy also added the seal for £16. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Rich, you'll find it much easier to remove the roof and sides, you can work unimpeded then. If you need a hand lifting it, just shout Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Is it possible to remove the side panels and leave the roof in situ ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wermy Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Yeah it is. I loosened the roof bolts from behind the B posts and then used my engine crane to support the roof. To save things slipping and to protect the door opening, I made a wooden U shape out of wood. You then just lift the roof a touch and the side panels lift out. You can then work on the cappings with ease. The same method was later used when I gave up on the rotten tub and swapped it for a newer utility one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Is it possible to remove the side panels and leave the roof in situ ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 That's good to know ! I'm going to swap out the van sides for windows and plan to drop some galvanised cappings in at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 Useful. They haven't arrived yet, so this might get postponed to next weekend (I did only order them late Thursday). That looks easier than raising the whole roof and gives lots of room to work with. Out of interest Pat, is your 110 sprayed? Only ask as the door looks brushed/rolled and if it was, was going to ask what paint you used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Useful. They haven't arrived yet, so this might get postponed to next weekend (I did only order them late Thursday). That looks easier than raising the whole roof and gives lots of room to work with. Out of interest Pat, is your 110 sprayed? Only ask as the door looks brushed/rolled and if it was, was going to ask what paint you used? Rollered it! Dead easy. I used satin finish Nato green synthetic enamel, from military vehicle paints. 5 litres was more than enough to do 2 coats on the 110, lots left but I never finished the interior, (is anything ever finished on a Land Rover?). It's been on 2 years and I can't fault the paints adhesion but it has matted out a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 You can even do it when its snowing Richard.. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1313219982989&set=pb.1005341141.-2207520000.1404566785.&type=3&theater https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1313219942988&set=pb.1005341141.-2207520000.1404566785.&type=3&theater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 Haha. Doesn't look like you lifted the roof much there if at all Dave? Did they just slide out once all the fastenings were loosened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Yes, if I remember Rightly we undid everthing upto and including the B posts then I just stood in the back and lifted the roof 2 or 3 inches and the panels fell out with lots of room to spare. Liam (the one in the pics) did his on his 110 some weeks before and as mensioned in this thread he put his Hilift in the rear door hole and lifted the roof like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share Posted July 9, 2014 The cappings came today. Just a quick question, is there a special type of rivet I need for these. I think I've read about 'sealed' rivets somewhere?? Are these what I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 You don't have to use sealed rivets but it's another way to prevent water ingress, albeit in negligible quantities. Most of the original rivets on the 90 were the sealed type so I replaced them like-for-like. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 What i learnt was don't bother with the rivet hand gun, get some lazy tongs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davie Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 having had roof off on my 90 to cure water leaks and replaced cappings i found on re assembly tiger seal in large amounts was a sure fire way to keep water out, all new seals and loads of tiger seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 26, 2014 Author Share Posted July 26, 2014 I'm just trying to fit these new cappings and hardly any of the holes line up with the ones in the body. The row along the side body particularly are tantalizingly close - they are higher than those on the capping, but I can't bend it so far as to make them fit. Should I just drill new holes? Has the galv process distorted these new cappings? I'm replacing the two piece ones with one piece, so were they different? The eBay seller is away so I can't ask them!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 If the cappings are re-manufactured, you may need to grind down the galv layer on the inner/under side where the capping rests on the tub sides. The process used can leave drip accumulation on the inner surfaces. Thats why you usually have to re-tap any threads on re-manufactured parts that have threads already in them. If they don't quite line up with your holes try grinding the lower inner edge of the cappings. Also for the seal, when I removed the cappings on my 110, there was a really heavy duty glued sponge material holding and sealing the cappings on. The thickness of this type of seal can elevate the replacement capping and mess with the alignment. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Share Posted July 27, 2014 Thanks Eric. The holes on the new ones are about 6mm further down on the side section compared to the old cappings . That's a lot to grind off and I used a packing strip between the capping and body. To use those holes would leave the side section too high once the window panel goes back on. Only four of the holes on the flat top section fitted as well - the rest were in different places so had to be drilled. It's as if these are a different fitment on the newer style one piece cappings. The parts were advertised as genuine that had subsequently been galved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 I fitted a set of galv cappings to my 90 (they were original galv ones so older than the ones that came off) and had to re-drill some holes. The old hole are hidden by the capping so it didn't particularly bother me, just a bit of a pain I guess. It would be worth ensuring separation of the aluminium and galv steel if possible to put off the inevitable galvanic corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 27, 2014 Author Share Posted July 27, 2014 Thanks James. I got the drill out in the end and one side is now done. Just going out to do the other. It just seemed odd as all the write ups suggests everything was a direct replacement - if the holes had been a bit skewed, bit visible through each other, I could have twisted it to fit, but no chance with these ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 The holes on mine didn't line up either. I enlarged the ones in the capping then used rivet washers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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